Best new GT3 build for track use
04-27-2017, 11:07 AM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yeah I mean it depends if you're going for lap times or just lapping for fun...guys here bring 20L fuel cans and fill up during the day, none of us would ever fun full fuel...maybe 1/4 remaining at any time.
Also depends on proximity of petrol stations to the track, we would have one within a 15min drive of the track too.
Also depends on proximity of petrol stations to the track, we would have one within a 15min drive of the track too.
04-27-2017, 11:12 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
The large tank has to weigh more than the small tank. The question is how much more does it weigh? It would also be nice if we knew the weight of all the options. I just like to keep my cars as light as possible, regardless of whether they see the track, or not.
04-27-2017, 11:13 AM
#18
For me it depends if you trailer or drive to track days.
If trailer I would buy
Lift
Large tank
LWB
If driving to track I would go
Large tank
LWB
Both cases I would buy silver or platinum wheels for street only and get aftermarket wheels for track.
Harry's or Aim
If trailer I would buy
Lift
Large tank
LWB
If driving to track I would go
Large tank
LWB
Both cases I would buy silver or platinum wheels for street only and get aftermarket wheels for track.
Harry's or Aim
04-27-2017, 11:14 AM
#19
Originally Posted by 997rs4.0
For me it depends if you trailer or drive to track days.
If trailer I would buy
Lift
Large tank
LWB
If driving to track I would go
Large tank
LWB
Both cases I would buy silver or platinum wheels for street only and get aftermarket wheels for track.
Harry's or Aim
If trailer I would buy
Lift
Large tank
LWB
If driving to track I would go
Large tank
LWB
Both cases I would buy silver or platinum wheels for street only and get aftermarket wheels for track.
Harry's or Aim
04-27-2017, 11:18 AM
#20
Instructor
I guess it might weigh more? I actually never looked into it as it isn't an option here (maybe not for RHD cars)
04-27-2017, 11:23 AM
#22
Instructor
I'm surprised how many just recommend front axle lift for trailer loading. I scrape the front lip of my GT4 every day going up and down even moderately steep driveways, and have lamented not having that option on the GT4. Based on my experience in the GT4, I'd recommend the lift for anyone.
04-27-2017, 11:26 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
If you were building a GT3 for a track enthusiast, what option boxes would you tick?
I'm thinking...
- PDK
- standard (iron) brakes
- LWB seats
- Larger full tank
- Sport chrono (for stopwatch clock and lap trigger prep)
- bright color (GR, Yellow, or white with graphics)
- black wheels (brake dust)
- steering wheel in alcantara with center marker red
- fire exstinguisher
anythinh else?
I'm thinking...
- PDK
- standard (iron) brakes
- LWB seats
- Larger full tank
- Sport chrono (for stopwatch clock and lap trigger prep)
- bright color (GR, Yellow, or white with graphics)
- black wheels (brake dust)
- steering wheel in alcantara with center marker red
- fire exstinguisher
anythinh else?
I's leave the Sport Chrono off and use that for the Vbox / Roll bar and harnesses.
With Race Technologies' RE10 brake pads dust is no factor so pick the color you like.
The best color for a track car is the one that hides yellowing clear bra the best, so stick to yellow or red instead of white?
04-27-2017, 03:26 PM
#25
Get the larger tank. It's better to be able to lounge around the paddock between sessions rather than filling your tank up constantly.
The weight difference with the tank isn't going to make the difference between winning your HPDE or not.
It's also great for back road excursions into the countryside. These cars drink when you put the pedal down.
The weight difference with the tank isn't going to make the difference between winning your HPDE or not.
It's also great for back road excursions into the countryside. These cars drink when you put the pedal down.
04-27-2017, 03:45 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
So nobody likes PCCBs? I get that replacing rotors is expensive for serious track work and racing, and that they can be damaged by errant stones and clumsy tire changes. But for a moderate amount of track use...say 3-4 HPDEs per year...nobody finds the benefits to outweigh the risks?
04-27-2017, 04:36 PM
#27
Not to start the PCCB vs. Iron argument, but, cost aside..., again, COST ASIDE, is there any reason why you would ever spec Iron over PCCB? If someone gave you PCCB for free and free replacement rotors and pads for life, would anyone choose iron over PCCB?
04-27-2017, 04:40 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
So nobody likes PCCBs? I get that replacing rotors is expensive for serious track work and racing, and that they can be damaged by errant stones and clumsy tire changes. But for a moderate amount of track use...say 3-4 HPDEs per year...nobody finds the benefits to outweigh the risks?
04-27-2017, 04:42 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
If the cost is the same, PCCB over Iron all day long. Heck, I will pay 50% more for PCCB. But the price differential is far higher.
04-27-2017, 04:44 PM
#30
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Some people prefer the more finely controllable modulation and choice of pads available with irons. I've never owned PCCB's, so can't comment.