Engine Control Fault
#76
I often wondered if the smoking was related to the engine problems but I don't think it is. My 2015 GT3 smoked quite a bit even when I let it sit a bit before turing it off. The RS never smokes.
#77
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Loess
I often wondered if the smoking was related to the engine problems but I don't think it is. My 2015 GT3 smoked quite a bit even when I let it sit a bit before turing it off. The RS never smokes.
#79
To all that are hopeful the G engine is immune, the design is the same as the E,F on the valve train only DLC coated, so it takes longer to start wearing the metal. The G engined cars will show this issue as well, just don't know how long it will take. There's a reason why they went from hydraulic lash adjusters, to solid lash adjusters in the 991.2 engine and this is why we're putting a lot of resources into addressing this, as I personally don't have confidence Porsche will warranty this issue once the warranty is expired...
But you are clearly right, with the new fixed valvetrain design in the new engine they made the valvetraine more simple and better controllable, for sure more reliable when the lash is tuned well.
I'm verry curious what porsche will do. If the problem persits, they need to fix the "old" engines in some way. With no oil in the place, every material will wear in a very short period.
But we all know, you will have a solution soon And with the hotter cams...
#80
That meens there is hope for the cars later than F30xx and for those with top end rebuild
Maybe they found a solution with the changed cam profile, changed spring rates, the modified heads and optimized oil pressure since engine F30xx. The DLC-coated cam came later with G.
But you are clearly right, with the new fixed valvetrain design in the new engine they made the valvetraine more simple and better controllable, for sure more reliable when the lash is tuned well.
I'm verry curious what porsche will do. If the problem persits, they need to fix the "old" engines in some way. With no oil in the place, every material will wear in a very short period.
But we all know, you will have a solution soon And with the hotter cams...
Maybe they found a solution with the changed cam profile, changed spring rates, the modified heads and optimized oil pressure since engine F30xx. The DLC-coated cam came later with G.
But you are clearly right, with the new fixed valvetrain design in the new engine they made the valvetraine more simple and better controllable, for sure more reliable when the lash is tuned well.
I'm verry curious what porsche will do. If the problem persits, they need to fix the "old" engines in some way. With no oil in the place, every material will wear in a very short period.
But we all know, you will have a solution soon And with the hotter cams...
#81
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And the million dollar question for Jamie is: "Approximately how much is a "Fix" going to cost a GT3 owner once you get it figured out???? (I'm sure your fix will be well thought out and legit .... not just some Band Aid ... and therefore there will be and should be an expense... my assumption is somewhere North of $30K...???)
It's not quite a million dollars... The first answer is it depends. If the engine is in good shape, cylinder bores not scored, bearing surfaces with no embedded DLC etc then the cost will be less. It's also going to be a bit volume dependent. The first parts are in mfg, and Neil is going to do a bunch of tests/modeling on them before we install in my 2014 E engined lab rat... Hopefully it lasts long enough to keep in running before we put the parts in it.
We're very much aware of the price point and keeping the solution as economical as possible while balancing the quality, design and using top top tier manufacturers for it.
I think your estimate is in the correct ballpark, with the data I have in front of me now...
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Dundon Motorsports
Gig Harbor, WA
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Dundon Motorsports
Gig Harbor, WA
253-200-4454
jamie@dundonmotorsports.com
www.dundonmotorsports.com
Facebook.com/dundonmotorsports
Instagram @dundon_motorsports
#82
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
All parts are in and the dealership is already working on the car. ETA Thursday or Friday this week. No damage to the cylinder walls noticed. If the ETA holds up, two weeks total turn around time is not bad.
#83
Race Director
#85
Race Director
#86
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry, was unable to get photos of the new parts.
Picked up the car today. Only drove back from the dealership, but so far so good. The rough cost of the rebuild was around ~$36K. ~26K in parts the rest labor (40+ hours). All warranty of course.
Listen, I don't know how accurate all this stuff is so take it with a grain of salt, but according to my SA and tech who worked on my car, the rebuild should fix the problem "for good". The replaced parts are of a stronger material less susceptible to this kind of wear.
Picked up the car today. Only drove back from the dealership, but so far so good. The rough cost of the rebuild was around ~$36K. ~26K in parts the rest labor (40+ hours). All warranty of course.
Listen, I don't know how accurate all this stuff is so take it with a grain of salt, but according to my SA and tech who worked on my car, the rebuild should fix the problem "for good". The replaced parts are of a stronger material less susceptible to this kind of wear.
#87
Nordschleife Master
Sorry, was unable to get photos of the new parts.
Picked up the car today. Only drove back from the dealership, but so far so good. The rough cost of the rebuild was around ~$36K. ~26K in parts the rest labor (40+ hours). All warranty of course.
Listen, I don't know how accurate all this stuff is so take it with a grain of salt, but according to my SA and tech who worked on my car, the rebuild should fix the problem "for good". The replaced parts are of a stronger material less susceptible to this kind of wear.
Picked up the car today. Only drove back from the dealership, but so far so good. The rough cost of the rebuild was around ~$36K. ~26K in parts the rest labor (40+ hours). All warranty of course.
Listen, I don't know how accurate all this stuff is so take it with a grain of salt, but according to my SA and tech who worked on my car, the rebuild should fix the problem "for good". The replaced parts are of a stronger material less susceptible to this kind of wear.
#88
Race Director
Sorry, was unable to get photos of the new parts.
Picked up the car today. Only drove back from the dealership, but so far so good. The rough cost of the rebuild was around ~$36K. ~26K in parts the rest labor (40+ hours). All warranty of course.
Listen, I don't know how accurate all this stuff is so take it with a grain of salt, but according to my SA and tech who worked on my car, the rebuild should fix the problem "for good". The replaced parts are of a stronger material less susceptible to this kind of wear.
Picked up the car today. Only drove back from the dealership, but so far so good. The rough cost of the rebuild was around ~$36K. ~26K in parts the rest labor (40+ hours). All warranty of course.
Listen, I don't know how accurate all this stuff is so take it with a grain of salt, but according to my SA and tech who worked on my car, the rebuild should fix the problem "for good". The replaced parts are of a stronger material less susceptible to this kind of wear.
#90
Race Director