need help with wheel change
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
need help with wheel change
just finished a labor intensive change of tires/wheels on my car.
What a PITA!
I thought the idea of these center locks was to hasten the process of wheel changes---couldn't be more the-opposite.
changing 5 lug wheels on my ZR1 or 458 takes 5 minutes per wheel...small breaker bar, impact wrench, small torque wrench at 100...bingo!
each wheel was literally 30 minutes with these f'ing center locks...gigantic socket that disconnects from the CL hub 75% of the time, breaker bar from hell, 440 ft-lb torque wrench taller than my wife...nearly impossible to get that click at 440 without busting a cerebral aneurysm...and that god damn aluminum paste everywhere!!
only good part was the phallic wheel guide...that thing is genius!
anyhow, I could not, could not, could NOT get the 4th wheel locking nut to get flush with the teeth...tried that useless tool that comes with the socket in the trunk for 40 minutes with no success.
I know a few guys at the track fashioned their own "MacGyver-like" tool with hex nuts and bolts and a handle or something. anyone have the specs on one of these?
I am at Watkins Glen tomorrow and need to get this straightened out ASAP.
help!
thanks,
kevin
What a PITA!
I thought the idea of these center locks was to hasten the process of wheel changes---couldn't be more the-opposite.
changing 5 lug wheels on my ZR1 or 458 takes 5 minutes per wheel...small breaker bar, impact wrench, small torque wrench at 100...bingo!
each wheel was literally 30 minutes with these f'ing center locks...gigantic socket that disconnects from the CL hub 75% of the time, breaker bar from hell, 440 ft-lb torque wrench taller than my wife...nearly impossible to get that click at 440 without busting a cerebral aneurysm...and that god damn aluminum paste everywhere!!
only good part was the phallic wheel guide...that thing is genius!
anyhow, I could not, could not, could NOT get the 4th wheel locking nut to get flush with the teeth...tried that useless tool that comes with the socket in the trunk for 40 minutes with no success.
I know a few guys at the track fashioned their own "MacGyver-like" tool with hex nuts and bolts and a handle or something. anyone have the specs on one of these?
I am at Watkins Glen tomorrow and need to get this straightened out ASAP.
help!
thanks,
kevin
#3
Rennlist Member
what I bought for my center lock wheels several years ago and always worked and perfect fit sold on Amazon
Torque Solution Center Lock Wheel Tool: Porsche 997.2 TT/GT2, 997.2 GT3/RS 4.0, 991 GT3, 991 TT/S
Torque Solution Center Lock Wheel Tool: Porsche 997.2 TT/GT2, 997.2 GT3/RS 4.0, 991 GT3, 991 TT/S
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
maybe I should loosen the nut and start form scratch?
seems waaaay to hard to get theses nuts to 440 ft-lbs???
#7
Rennlist Member
this has happened to me a few times, and i just loosened the nut and started the process again.
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#8
As an aside I pulled the caps on mine to take this photo, and the car had been at the dealer recently for a new set of tires so they were the last to work on the CLs. Well 3 of 4 locks were NOT engaged. I've been driving a couple weeks on the street like that. Not happy. Lesson don't trust them to get this right. Sheesh.
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: West Vancouver and San Francisco
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This happens when the lock pin gets stuck. It should be able to rotate about 5-10 degrees. My fronts got stuck once, I took them out (the locking pins come out completely when wheels are off), cleaned off some oxidation and lubed with that nasty centerlock paste a little so that the move freely.
I'm surprised at 30 mins per wheel, though. I changed pads and swapped wheels side-to-side in little over an hour track side a week ago, and half of the time was spent pushing in pistons with my bare hands (had no spreader tool). It takes less than 5 minutes per wheel when not disassembling the nuts (I only do it when the rings are not rotating freely). The trick is that you can push in the locking pin with your thumb and then screw the nut on/off with your hand all the way to the end in 20 seconds, and use the attachment and wrench for final half-rev to torque or for initial breaking.
I'm surprised at 30 mins per wheel, though. I changed pads and swapped wheels side-to-side in little over an hour track side a week ago, and half of the time was spent pushing in pistons with my bare hands (had no spreader tool). It takes less than 5 minutes per wheel when not disassembling the nuts (I only do it when the rings are not rotating freely). The trick is that you can push in the locking pin with your thumb and then screw the nut on/off with your hand all the way to the end in 20 seconds, and use the attachment and wrench for final half-rev to torque or for initial breaking.
#10
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Whoa, something's not right. I said more force/leverage but you still want to be gentle. You should be able to push in on the spring and just jiggle the breaker/ extension to get the center to pop out and cover the splines. But if it won't pop out then yes I'd say loosen the nut and try again.
#11
Rennlist Member
Maybe I just got lucky but I found the same. Infact when i had to do a unplanned wheel removal for a tire repair on a recent track tour I was surprised just how easy and quick it was (helps to have someone hold down the brake pedal). I hope the OP has some lucky in getting this sorted out...
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Maybe I just got lucky but I found the same. Infact when i had to do a unplanned wheel removal for a tire repair on a recent track tour I was surprised just how easy and quick it was (helps to have someone hold down the brake pedal). I hope the OP has some lucky in getting this sorted out...
I will try loosening again tomorrow before i leave.
#13
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
Member
always chk lock-in nut. it has to b flush
u domt need special tool ½ so ker extension will get it out
don't forget to great nut.
LOTs of rubber gloves
not hard, but PITA
u domt need special tool ½ so ker extension will get it out
don't forget to great nut.
LOTs of rubber gloves
not hard, but PITA
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Whoa, something's not right. I said more force/leverage but you still want to be gentle. You should be able to push in on the spring and just jiggle the breaker/ extension to get the center to pop out and cover the splines. But if it won't pop out then yes I'd say loosen the nut and try again.
As an aside I pulled the caps on mine to take this photo, and the car had been at the dealer recently for a new set of tires so they were the last to work on the CLs. Well 3 of 4 locks were NOT engaged. I've been driving a couple weeks on the street like that. Not happy. Lesson don't trust them to get this right. Sheesh.
As an aside I pulled the caps on mine to take this photo, and the car had been at the dealer recently for a new set of tires so they were the last to work on the CLs. Well 3 of 4 locks were NOT engaged. I've been driving a couple weeks on the street like that. Not happy. Lesson don't trust them to get this right. Sheesh.