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need help with wheel change

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Old 08-15-2016, 08:56 PM
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kfmcmahon
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Default need help with wheel change

just finished a labor intensive change of tires/wheels on my car.

What a PITA!


I thought the idea of these center locks was to hasten the process of wheel changes---couldn't be more the-opposite.

changing 5 lug wheels on my ZR1 or 458 takes 5 minutes per wheel...small breaker bar, impact wrench, small torque wrench at 100...bingo!

each wheel was literally 30 minutes with these f'ing center locks...gigantic socket that disconnects from the CL hub 75% of the time, breaker bar from hell, 440 ft-lb torque wrench taller than my wife...nearly impossible to get that click at 440 without busting a cerebral aneurysm...and that god damn aluminum paste everywhere!!

only good part was the phallic wheel guide...that thing is genius!


anyhow, I could not, could not, could NOT get the 4th wheel locking nut to get flush with the teeth...tried that useless tool that comes with the socket in the trunk for 40 minutes with no success.

I know a few guys at the track fashioned their own "MacGyver-like" tool with hex nuts and bolts and a handle or something. anyone have the specs on one of these?

I am at Watkins Glen tomorrow and need to get this straightened out ASAP.

help!


thanks,
kevin
Old 08-15-2016, 09:07 PM
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zedcat
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I just use either a 1/2in socket extension or breaker. It fits fine and you have more force/ leverage than a little piece of plastic. Hope that helps
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:47 PM
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autoxerGT3RS
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what I bought for my center lock wheels several years ago and always worked and perfect fit sold on Amazon

Torque Solution Center Lock Wheel Tool: Porsche 997.2 TT/GT2, 997.2 GT3/RS 4.0, 991 GT3, 991 TT/S
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:49 PM
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kfmcmahon
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Originally Posted by zedcat
I just use either a 1/2in socket extension or breaker. It fits fine and you have more force/ leverage than a little piece of plastic. Hope that helps
thanks...tried both of those and they started to strip the nut so I stopped!


maybe I should loosen the nut and start form scratch?


seems waaaay to hard to get theses nuts to 440 ft-lbs???
Old 08-15-2016, 09:51 PM
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kfmcmahon
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Originally Posted by autoxerGT3
what I bought for my center lock wheels several years ago and always worked and perfect fit sold on Amazon

Torque Solution Center Lock Wheel Tool: Porsche 997.2 TT/GT2, 997.2 GT3/RS 4.0, 991 GT3, 991 TT/S
Ok, I ordered this, but obviously won't be here in time
Old 08-15-2016, 10:04 PM
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Once you've done it a million times it's not that bad.
Old 08-15-2016, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kfmcmahon
thanks...tried both of those and they started to strip the nut so I stopped!


maybe I should loosen the nut and start form scratch?


seems waaaay to hard to get theses nuts to 440 ft-lbs???
this has happened to me a few times, and i just loosened the nut and started the process again.
Old 08-15-2016, 10:15 PM
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zedcat
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Originally Posted by kfmcmahon
thanks...tried both of those and they started to strip the nut so I stopped!


maybe I should loosen the nut and start form scratch?


seems waaaay to hard to get theses nuts to 440 ft-lbs???
Whoa, something's not right. I said more force/leverage but you still want to be gentle. You should be able to push in on the spring and just jiggle the breaker/ extension to get the center to pop out and cover the splines. But if it won't pop out then yes I'd say loosen the nut and try again.

As an aside I pulled the caps on mine to take this photo, and the car had been at the dealer recently for a new set of tires so they were the last to work on the CLs. Well 3 of 4 locks were NOT engaged. I've been driving a couple weeks on the street like that. Not happy. Lesson don't trust them to get this right. Sheesh.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:23 PM
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MaxLTV
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This happens when the lock pin gets stuck. It should be able to rotate about 5-10 degrees. My fronts got stuck once, I took them out (the locking pins come out completely when wheels are off), cleaned off some oxidation and lubed with that nasty centerlock paste a little so that the move freely.

I'm surprised at 30 mins per wheel, though. I changed pads and swapped wheels side-to-side in little over an hour track side a week ago, and half of the time was spent pushing in pistons with my bare hands (had no spreader tool). It takes less than 5 minutes per wheel when not disassembling the nuts (I only do it when the rings are not rotating freely). The trick is that you can push in the locking pin with your thumb and then screw the nut on/off with your hand all the way to the end in 20 seconds, and use the attachment and wrench for final half-rev to torque or for initial breaking.
Old 08-15-2016, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by zedcat
Whoa, something's not right. I said more force/leverage but you still want to be gentle. You should be able to push in on the spring and just jiggle the breaker/ extension to get the center to pop out and cover the splines. But if it won't pop out then yes I'd say loosen the nut and try again.
Good point - need to always push the nut in fully when trying to jiggle it. Otherwise it will not move because it's partially engaged.
Old 08-15-2016, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kyrocks
Once you've done it a million times it's not that bad.
Maybe I just got lucky but I found the same. Infact when i had to do a unplanned wheel removal for a tire repair on a recent track tour I was surprised just how easy and quick it was (helps to have someone hold down the brake pedal). I hope the OP has some lucky in getting this sorted out...
Old 08-15-2016, 10:41 PM
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kfmcmahon
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Originally Posted by Macca
Maybe I just got lucky but I found the same. Infact when i had to do a unplanned wheel removal for a tire repair on a recent track tour I was surprised just how easy and quick it was (helps to have someone hold down the brake pedal). I hope the OP has some lucky in getting this sorted out...
i have the brake pedal clamped to the drivers seat, so no problem there.

I will try loosening again tomorrow before i leave.
Old 08-15-2016, 10:41 PM
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always chk lock-in nut. it has to b flush

u domt need special tool ½ so ker extension will get it out

don't forget to great nut.

LOTs of rubber gloves

not hard, but PITA
Old 08-15-2016, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by zedcat
Whoa, something's not right. I said more force/leverage but you still want to be gentle. You should be able to push in on the spring and just jiggle the breaker/ extension to get the center to pop out and cover the splines. But if it won't pop out then yes I'd say loosen the nut and try again.

As an aside I pulled the caps on mine to take this photo, and the car had been at the dealer recently for a new set of tires so they were the last to work on the CLs. Well 3 of 4 locks were NOT engaged. I've been driving a couple weeks on the street like that. Not happy. Lesson don't trust them to get this right. Sheesh.
scary^^
Old 08-15-2016, 10:44 PM
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kfmcmahon
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Originally Posted by mooty
always chk lock-in nut. it has to b flush

u domt need special tool ½ so ker extension will get it out

don't forget to great nut.

LOTs of rubber gloves

not hard, but PITA
It must be partially locked because a 1/2 inch breaker bar or socket extension won't engage it


I will loosen it in the morning, too tired now and have had a few Caymus'


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