Yippiekiaye

gt3fantasy

Thanks Dalema, I miss your thread, so you end up with the HD9, really helpful thread, I believe I finally decide what to get

ranger22

Don't forget that you have to raise the car 2" or so above the mechanical latch and then let it settle so that the car is sitting on the locks and not held up on the hydraulics.

white6speed

Lots of information to review. Do you guys think 2- 50 1/2 inch cars will work with a ceiling height of 108 inches. Thinking of the BendPak.

wareaglescott

I made some measurements of my bendpak starting in post 9 of this thread that should be helpful
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...-2-height.html

997gr8

Looking to get the Bendpak HD9, but am unsure which ramps to get that will allow a 991.2 GT3 (without axle lift) to get on easily, and whether said ramps will stay suspended in the air, or will flop-down (prefer suspended in the air!).

Appreciate any help!

thanks

GiuseppeM

ranger22

I have an HD-9 with the aluminum ramps. I have no issues clearing with my 991.2 GT3. Mine is roughly stock height though I have -2.8 deg camber up front. I do not anticipate that changed the ride height any appreciable amount. I always drive slow because I fear going off the railing.

I tried to buy the race ramps but they couldn't get them delivered to me in a reasonable time, so I settled with the aluminum ones. I don't feel like they are very heavy at all. In fact, I think they weigh roughly the same as the race ramps both of which are substantially lighter than the steel ones that come with the lift.

GiuseppeM

Yippiekiaye

I have the aluminum ones and I just leave them in place now and let it hang off the back. Seems to work just fine.

Dalema

Dalema

white6speed

Dalema thanks for your response. One car is a .2 GT3 and I have a T ordered which is supposed to be the same height as the 3. I know I am tight but hope not impossible. I understand the lift needs to go up 2" to lock and somewhere I saw something that while the lock stops are fixed there could be some adjustment. My ceiling height is 109"-110". Also have you seen a range on the BendPak for installation. Thanks again

DutchGT3

I just completed the install of a BendPak HD-9ST. I have a 57" M5 at the bottom and carry the 50" .2 GT3 on top. My ceiling is 117" and it is incredibly tight. Several times when raising the lift off the locks I probably stop just shy of the required 2" (due to valid concerns of hitting the ceiling) and one of the locks doesn't unlock so when lowering it one corner doesn't lower. I notice this very quickly so retry it and everything is fine, but I know one day I will - just ever so slightly - go too far and hit the ceiling. Based on your ceiling height of 109-110 and two 50" cars I would recommend against you getting the lift. You're going to try and make it work and it might simply not work unless you're able to find ways to raise your ceiling or lower the garage floor and you might be stuck with a installed lift not being able to use it.

I went through the exact same measurements and thought process as you on the 2" adjustments that BendPak's literature is talking about and figured it would make a huge difference in whether or not my car fits. I was told by BendPak that you have full control over this so in your mind you start adding that to the extra space you have. I found out that in my case my garage floor is not 100% level, it slightly slopes down towards the garage door. I needed about 1 1/2" on both posts on the garage door side to level the lift, so basically ate up all the 2" wiggle room that they cover in their literature by that.

I'm using the standard yellow heavy steel ramps and they flip down which doesn't work for me otherwise the M5 will hit them when driving underneath. So I did not permanently install the ramps and only put them in place when putting the car on (and off) the lift and remove them before raising the lift. Given that my garage door will hit the rear spoiler when fully opening the garage door, I have to drive the car on the lift backwards. The garage door will slide just above the frunk and is still 4 or so inches away from hitting the windscreen. When driving on backwards I have no issues with the front end of the car hitting the ramp. I will double check, but I think although I do have FAL I did not use it when driving the car on/off the lift.

For those of you that wonder, the HD-9ST model is quite narrow and the rear wheels pretty much go all the way to the outside edge of both ramps. The cross tube that holds the ramps slopes up just to the outside of the ramps, so you have a very narrow opening to drive on the ramps without scratching your rims (so far so good). Thank god for the rear view camera with its parking lines. If at all possible get the wider model lift (not an option for me).

I was quoted $1250 for install. In the end I decided to do the complete install by myself, which in hindsight from a logic point of view makes no sense at all, just pay folks to do the install and save yourself a lot of trouble, but now I'm done I look back at it fondly. I can tell you some harrowing tales of carrying the whole lift package as shipped plus bridge jack on a rented single axle trailer as well as the bruises from trying to lift the very heavy ramps of the trailer and trying to get them in the right position on the cross tubes. Doing all of this by just yourself without dolly is impossible. With a dolly but without a jack is extremely hard. Lots of cribbing blocks. When you are lifting the ramp onto the cross tubes you absolutely need an extra pair of hands such that you can lift the ramp and someone else can put the crib block underneath. Do this repeatedly and you don't need to go to the gym for a month (but might end up at the chiropractor). Anyway, anyone wanting to do the install themselves please understand that the installation manual does not explain everything and you will have lots of questions that are left unanswered until you try and try and finally figure things out. Happy to answer any questions on how to perform the install.

Yippiekiaye

Could you have some framers come in and remove dry wall from the ceiling and and reframe a soffett to accommodate the roof of the car? probably cost you a not that much money but if you get 4-5 extra inches, its worth the peace of mind rather than potentially having the car topple as you lower it and didnt realize one the locks didnt trip.