Setup numbers RS
02-10-2016, 08:48 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Setup numbers RS
Just looking for feedback;
Ride heights
Away bars
Camber
Toe
ASFAI Porsche still dint give us anything.
I'll try to post my numbers with what I found to work best ASAP.
Didn't need any aftermarket parts.
Seems different than GT3 as do no other reason the RS goes through rear tires much faster than fronts.
Next: smaller wheels to go lower and still no rubbing??
Who has done it? What tires?
Ride heights
Away bars
Camber
Toe
ASFAI Porsche still dint give us anything.
I'll try to post my numbers with what I found to work best ASAP.
Didn't need any aftermarket parts.
Seems different than GT3 as do no other reason the RS goes through rear tires much faster than fronts.
Next: smaller wheels to go lower and still no rubbing??
Who has done it? What tires?
02-12-2016, 06:30 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
All right this is what worked best for me at Sebring, I think.
Car 100% stock.
Problem is I only got 1 clear lap (posted it somewhere and I didn't drive a good lap so it should be a 2:15x as I predicted but so far I only ran a 2:16.
Notes; Dunlops (used 2 sets). Maybe fast but they keep building PSI forever, they just don't stop.
I think they felt the best after 5-6 laps proper heat in them and 32-33PSI.
MPSC2 (Used 5 sets) come up to temp better and are just as fast but the PSI doesn't keep going. MPSC2 I ran 30-32max.
I like the feel of Dunlops less, more rubbery, less precise.
Very nice in 991 the TPSM is accurate and always works.
So we set the car up:
one notch down on the front of the wing
zero toe F
Rear toe 1.5mm each side
front bar stiff
rear bar middle
Camber Front -3
Camber Rear -2.7
Ride height F: 122
Ride height R: 268
When I got to Sebring, even in hard suspension setting the car felt a bit wallowy and was leaning too much, even though the car stuck good, but on corner exit it pushed wide.
Also the Dunlops, just like the MSPC2 started cording quickly in the left rear. Flipped tires and still corded the right rear as the damge was done early.
The car was sitting pretty high.
After some runs I like the car the best:
no change to wing, still just one hole drop front of wing.
Tiny bit toe out F
Rear toe unknown
front bar middle
rear bar full stuff
Camber Front -2.8
Camber Rear -2.5
Ride height F: 122 minus 3 turns No rubbing!
Ride height R: 268 minus 2 turns (I don't know how to measure)
1 shop did the before setup, other shop adjusted car, 3rd shop measured when I came back, hence my confusion.
But anyway the car drives best full stuff rear with the nice benefit of finally limiting cording the outside rear tires but they still cord before the fronts.
Id go back to zero toe as the car really moves around under max braking and I think I can do a better entry speed and rotation with a more stable car. Its gonna go where you point it on the way into the corner anyway. The rear is loose but still very fast where it matters. So this seems safe / good.
I'll probably go back a few times on MPSC2's but at this point the Dunlops seem to last longer and more even across the thread but like to test this setup on MPSC2 to confirm.
I still have a lightly used set of 265 fronts MPSC2 and a new set of front 265 Dunlops, so we will see what I need next weekends.
I hope someone can translate the numbers and I will re measure ride height as soon as I can get it to a shop again.
RE10 pads are lasting very long, feel very good. I think even though not cheap its nice to have a pad that lasts as long as the front rotors possibly.
Looking for people to share setup please.
Car 100% stock.
Problem is I only got 1 clear lap (posted it somewhere and I didn't drive a good lap so it should be a 2:15x as I predicted but so far I only ran a 2:16.
Notes; Dunlops (used 2 sets). Maybe fast but they keep building PSI forever, they just don't stop.
I think they felt the best after 5-6 laps proper heat in them and 32-33PSI.
MPSC2 (Used 5 sets) come up to temp better and are just as fast but the PSI doesn't keep going. MPSC2 I ran 30-32max.
I like the feel of Dunlops less, more rubbery, less precise.
Very nice in 991 the TPSM is accurate and always works.
So we set the car up:
one notch down on the front of the wing
zero toe F
Rear toe 1.5mm each side
front bar stiff
rear bar middle
Camber Front -3
Camber Rear -2.7
Ride height F: 122
Ride height R: 268
When I got to Sebring, even in hard suspension setting the car felt a bit wallowy and was leaning too much, even though the car stuck good, but on corner exit it pushed wide.
Also the Dunlops, just like the MSPC2 started cording quickly in the left rear. Flipped tires and still corded the right rear as the damge was done early.
The car was sitting pretty high.
After some runs I like the car the best:
no change to wing, still just one hole drop front of wing.
Tiny bit toe out F
Rear toe unknown
front bar middle
rear bar full stuff
Camber Front -2.8
Camber Rear -2.5
Ride height F: 122 minus 3 turns No rubbing!
Ride height R: 268 minus 2 turns (I don't know how to measure)
1 shop did the before setup, other shop adjusted car, 3rd shop measured when I came back, hence my confusion.
But anyway the car drives best full stuff rear with the nice benefit of finally limiting cording the outside rear tires but they still cord before the fronts.
Id go back to zero toe as the car really moves around under max braking and I think I can do a better entry speed and rotation with a more stable car. Its gonna go where you point it on the way into the corner anyway. The rear is loose but still very fast where it matters. So this seems safe / good.
I'll probably go back a few times on MPSC2's but at this point the Dunlops seem to last longer and more even across the thread but like to test this setup on MPSC2 to confirm.
I still have a lightly used set of 265 fronts MPSC2 and a new set of front 265 Dunlops, so we will see what I need next weekends.
I hope someone can translate the numbers and I will re measure ride height as soon as I can get it to a shop again.
RE10 pads are lasting very long, feel very good. I think even though not cheap its nice to have a pad that lasts as long as the front rotors possibly.
Looking for people to share setup please.
Last edited by TRAKCAR; 07-10-2016 at 07:41 AM.
02-12-2016, 06:52 PM
#6
Big surprise, not a lot of people tracking their RSs. Fail! 
02-12-2016, 08:59 PM
#7
Trending Topics
02-12-2016, 09:18 PM
#8
I won't be tracking mine, find the prospects of an open wheeler more appealing this year
02-12-2016, 09:29 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Great data points Pete. When you say no change to wing in the second list of settings do you mean no change to previous set up or do you mean no change to factory neutral setting?
I've been on stock OEM settings a while now on the GT3. I did a just front bar one notch soft to dial out some corner entry under steer. It seemed to work ok. At the same time I had front toe set up 0 which felt fine.
Your harder rear bar factory front addresses understeer like my soft front medium rear right? Does it do the same thing or have more of an effect?
I'm experiencing more rear tyre shoulder wear than front, even though tyres wear fairly evenly square in GT3.
Been talking to a few Europeans and the belief is emerging that it's better to have more negative camber on rear of these RWS cars than front opposite to common non RWS practice. I'm thinking to change to -2.15 front and -2.65 rear next week in the hunt for tyre longevity for outer upcoming two week track tour.
If there were a single experimental change worth considering with the RS and its shoulder wear it might be to try and increase rear camber? Just a thought. I'll let you know how it went for me end of March...
I've been on stock OEM settings a while now on the GT3. I did a just front bar one notch soft to dial out some corner entry under steer. It seemed to work ok. At the same time I had front toe set up 0 which felt fine.
Your harder rear bar factory front addresses understeer like my soft front medium rear right? Does it do the same thing or have more of an effect?
I'm experiencing more rear tyre shoulder wear than front, even though tyres wear fairly evenly square in GT3.
Been talking to a few Europeans and the belief is emerging that it's better to have more negative camber on rear of these RWS cars than front opposite to common non RWS practice. I'm thinking to change to -2.15 front and -2.65 rear next week in the hunt for tyre longevity for outer upcoming two week track tour.
If there were a single experimental change worth considering with the RS and its shoulder wear it might be to try and increase rear camber? Just a thought. I'll let you know how it went for me end of March...
02-12-2016, 10:16 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
02-12-2016, 11:03 PM
#12
02-13-2016, 02:06 AM
#14
02-13-2016, 10:36 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Hi Peter:
Will be joining in the "RS on track gang" soon! Decided to sell GT3 a day ago. Told a friend with a little shop last nigh to sell it for me (you know the guy with a shop located at the Mosel I told you about). Today he called me and said he already has sold the car. Bummer - within 12 hours
I even get more than I have paid for
So and now I need to get the RS ready. Still need km to run it in but weather is preventing to do this soon
Looking forward to get the RS on track and will post my experience compared to the GT3.
Peter
Will be joining in the "RS on track gang" soon! Decided to sell GT3 a day ago. Told a friend with a little shop last nigh to sell it for me (you know the guy with a shop located at the Mosel I told you about). Today he called me and said he already has sold the car. Bummer - within 12 hours
I even get more than I have paid for
So and now I need to get the RS ready. Still need km to run it in but weather is preventing to do this soon
Looking forward to get the RS on track and will post my experience compared to the GT3.
Peter
