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Old 02-20-2016, 06:03 PM
  #31  
jo_ker
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Originally Posted by Peterfirst
Oh yes - would be great. RBR with PSC - first weekend in June.
Friday is trainig day - you could probably join in

Looking forward to meet you!

Peter
super!

http://www.porsche.com/porschesports...s/redbullring/

not sure if i can/will join. (currently still pending the RS + a rookie on big tracks)

but for sure i will come - at least as visitor

PM with phone number sent.
Old 04-19-2016, 11:46 PM
  #32  
Joe731
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I am amongst those whose RS will spend most of it's miles on the track, but still want it to be a bit road friendly.

Being in the Northeast, I have only had one track day in the car, but will be back at NJMSP/Lightning this Sunday/Monday, so I will gain some good shakedown time in the car.

On my first track day in the car, I was on an unfamiliar track (Thunderbolt) and the car was stock other than RE10 pads, AP racing rotors and Motul fluid. I ran the MPSC2s at 32/35 hot and they seemed pretty good (still long for R7s that will fit our cars in a 19/20 config).

My initial impressions of the car with stock suspension config are that it turns in very well and is agile, but was less straight-line stable during high speed braking than I thought it would be and didn't hold as many butt G's as I thought it could in a long slow turn (it was cold), but I think suspension tuning will improve both of these aspects.

I do have measured stock alignment (factory pre any adjustments) and will post those for reference. This weekend, I will take hot tire temps outside, middle, inside and post and may play with sways, trying stiff front medium rear and visa versa and post, depending on how it under/oversteers. All of this is of course weather dependent.

I don't think I will have enough track time to play with aero wing adjs.
Old 04-19-2016, 11:58 PM
  #33  
TRAKCAR
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Thanks Joe, we need all the feed back we can get to consolidate data.
Old 04-21-2016, 05:15 PM
  #34  
TRAKCAR
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Ride heights, not exactly measured correctly but at least we can compare.
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:35 PM
  #35  
Hoopumpers
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I started with camber at F-2.2 / R-1.9. Tracked it 3 days, 3 tracks. The rear outside shoulders are getting killed. Fronts weren't horrible.

Taking it to F-3.0 / R-3.0 and will report back. Honestly looks like the car would prefer more in the rear. Still a streeter for me, so have to find a hybrid setup I can live with.
Old 04-21-2016, 06:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Hoopumpers
I started with camber at F-2.2 / R-1.9. Tracked it 3 days, 3 tracks. The rear outside shoulders are getting killed. Fronts weren't horrible.

Taking it to F-3.0 / R-3.0 and will report back. Honestly looks like the car would prefer more in the rear. Still a streeter for me, so have to find a hybrid setup I can live with.
On an RS? The max you can do on the rear is 2.20 due to the 21 inch wheels. That is a real drawback compared to the GT3. I drove mine at 2.14 last week and am also still killing the outside edges. Not sure how this can be addressed without modifying the arches.
Old 04-21-2016, 06:01 PM
  #37  
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But my RS has -2.7 rear?
Old 04-21-2016, 06:11 PM
  #38  
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My car is done by the Black Falcon race team in Nürburg. They were running an RS during their winter events at Ascari and Portimao and had issues with rubbing when going over 2.20 (~2.3) on the rear. Since this is too little to accomplish even wear it is very interesting that you went higher, presumably without issues or adjustment to the arches?
Old 04-21-2016, 06:44 PM
  #39  
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Interesting. I'm picking up from shop in a couple of hours...guess we'll see shortly. Thanks for heads up. Will test Saturday on track
Old 04-21-2016, 07:10 PM
  #40  
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Right, no rubbing and no aftermarket parts.
Old 04-21-2016, 07:17 PM
  #41  
MileHigh911
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Originally Posted by Mika911
On an RS? The max you can do on the rear is 2.20 due to the 21 inch wheels. That is a real drawback compared to the GT3. I drove mine at 2.14 last week and am also still killing the outside edges. Not sure how this can be addressed without modifying the arches.
And don't forget, you have a differential rubber tire if running MPSC2. The inside 3/4 is a harder compound than the outer 1/4. SO, by design, they will wear like that. Many in the GT3 world kept increasing camber, but didn't get faster, and the tires heat cycle out before the outer shoulder was gone. And when they move back to stock, they claim better drivability, and same or faster lap times.
Old 04-22-2016, 04:19 AM
  #42  
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Some excellent info in the place!

Will talk to my mechanic and see what he thinks is possible. Will first of all try different variations with ARB, as generally full stiff on the rear seems to be the way to go.
Old 04-22-2016, 01:10 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by MileHigh911
And don't forget, you have a differential rubber tire if running MPSC2. The inside 3/4 is a harder compound than the outer 1/4. SO, by design, they will wear like that. Many in the GT3 world kept increasing camber, but didn't get faster, and the tires heat cycle out before the outer shoulder was gone. And when they move back to stock, they claim better drivability, and same or faster lap times.
I run the "normal rubber" Dunlops now and the rear tires wear evenly. I haven't checked temps but once I go back to MPSC2 the outsides should still cord first due to the type of rubber on the outer edge but I think this means the tire is used pretty evenly. Sorry, no temps across the thread.
Old 04-22-2016, 01:44 PM
  #44  
Mika911
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I run the "normal rubber" Dunlops now and the rear tires wear evenly. I haven't checked temps but once I go back to MPSC2 the outsides should still cord first due to the type of rubber on the outer edge but I think this means the tire is used pretty evenly. Sorry, no temps across the thread.
Regarding the cording, when does this require replacement? My tyres generally look fine after two hard days on track, but have a couple of 2-3mm spots on the outside rear where the tread shows. I have never had this on my 997GT3 so had it checked out, but the person who supplies my tyres reckons they do not need replacing.
Old 04-22-2016, 08:30 PM
  #45  
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Right, 997's corded on the inside, this is a whole new game.

I've done it often, but you shouldn't drive on corded tires. Those spots will grow quickly.
In the grand scheme of things tires are cheap, you'll feel more confident with new tires, so you will go faster and you don't risk a blow out or running out of tire before the day is over.

I've had a tire blown at 135MPH and hit a concrete wall at Road Atlanta. Caged racecar, had it been in my RS it could have been Game Over. I wasn't even sore the next day but I was already envisioning white coats standing over my on my way to the wall..

I drove Daytona at 170+MPH only to see giant cords when I came into the pit. I'm an idiot.


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