997rs4.0

My garage is not as fancy as many of these in this thread.
However, I didn't hold back on space. Open your doors fully and measure. That's the width you want for one car.

ClickClickBoom

A lot of times there is only one 16" stud center between the doors and on the end walls. On my garage I had the architect put two for 32" between the doors and the on end walls. I plenty of room in between cars, but the sides can be tight depending if there is anything on the wall.
As for depth. 24-26' min. None of this 19-20' seen in spec homes.

Needsdecaf

Bare minimum space for one vehicle is 11x20. You want more than that. I'd say 15x25 just for the car. Plus storage. Plus workbench. Plus....whatever.

$/SF absolutely impossible to say. Varies greatly per region, construction type, fitout, etc.

nuvolari612

Land X
2100 sf
Arch Eng fees 12k
Foundation 20k
Concrete floor 25k
Epoxy . Tile 20k
Exterior Efis stone 85k
Steel 15k
Framing 15k
Flat Roof 14k
Gutters drains etc 12k
Garage Carriage Doors Motors x4 2 windows man door 30k
Driveway 25k
Electric Lights 20k
HVAC 14k
Plumbing 10k
Drywall 35k
Insulation 10k
Welding 4k

Four car technically - rough est. all cost I'm the GC thought it would cost 1/2 and be done in 1/2 the time.

tonymission

Roof and gutters over 30k? Would have loved to be that contractor! I'm looking at 70k all in for a big two car including lifts, four side brick with partial basement and blowout expansion of existing laundry room to connect to garage. I'm assuming location is a big factor here.

Igooz

My shop will assume 14X20 per car
Rule of thumb: Assume $100 per sq. ft. if you want a good (not great) and finished shop. My translation for you gearheads: This would be like a 3-series BMW grade garage. (Not including the price of land.)

My project started this week as well, although the first week we are already one week behind schedule. 3600 sqft shop.

FFaust

Thanks for spelling that out, it somewhat validates my costs. For those wondering which garage, latest pics are on post # 2119.

I'm at (in Cdn $) for 2000' sq:

Excavate and back fill 10k
Foundation (8' plus footing) 22k
Lumber etc 20k
Roof trusses 6k
Framing 18k
Roof "ice and rain", no shingles, 3.5k
Floor (good deal) 9500
Insulation mat'l only 3500
Drywall labor and mat'l 7200
Electric rough-in 12k
Plumbing rough-in 3k
Siding, aluminium, eaves 17k
Garage doors x 3 (only 1 side-mount openner) 16k
Doors and windows 15k
Gas pipe 2500
Radiant heat, 60,000 btu 3500

Remaining:

Grading
Shingles + whole house + beef up house roof 15ish k?

I'm sure that I'm forgetting stuff, but it's probably better that way, lol.

Hope this helps.

nuvolari612

I spend a lot on commercial roofs that price was a favor.

2100 sf flat insulated roof 25 yr warranty special color is the roofers cost.

Add stainless steel skuppers copper downspouts drains - again it was close to their cost.

I think it's helpful to be adding on vs new all steel no vertical beams structure.

tonymission

Gotcha that makes more sense! TPO or PVC i assume

nuvolari612

I forgot grading - it's much better to forget the more the better.

nuvolari612

Firestone TPO - plus they are all union so it's work one hour rest one hour.

otisdog

FFaust - Your footings are more than 8' deep?

NaroEscape

Damn, you guys live in some expensive areas!!

In Charlotte, you can buy an entire 3000 sq ft HOUSE for less than $300k!!

We're looking at moving and building a new house and a separate shop/garage - since we can't in our neighborhood - but we've hit a bit of a dilemma....we found a perfect 2 acre lot at the end of a cul-de-sac in a small neighborhood (16 lots) with relatively no/minimal restrictions. Want to build the house with a 3 car attached and 3/4 car detached. However....county ordinance restricts impervious coverage to 6% of the property, which is only about 5,200 sq ft....impervious includes anything that is not "natural", like the building(s), driveway, patio, walkways, etc. The property is in the watershed zone for a lake that feeds Charlotte water supply. But here's the kickers:

-We currently live on that same lake and have 5500 sq ft of impervious on 3/4 acres of land. It seems the new ordinances went into effect in 2000 and this neighborhood was planned in 2001, so they must comply.

-EVERY SINGLE house in that neighborhood except 1 violates the impervious rule...and its shown clearly on the county portal website that they violate it (one house is at 9980 sq ft of impervious on 2 acres!!) so it's not like they're hiding it.

Calls to county planning and zoning confirm that we can only build 5200 sq ft of impervious to get our CO.

A builder we talked to said to build the buildings under the amount, then pave the driveway and do the patio after the CO is issued...risky IMO..

Anyone have a similar issue?

Manifold

I don't know the regulations in Charlotte, but generally you can disturb land and add impervious area up to a limit without having to do anything special with regard to stormwater management for water quality and quantity. If you exceed that impervious limit, you can still build, but need to do some stormwater management and obtain the needed permits. These days, there are methods for stormwater management which can be dispersed throughout a property and don't cost too much, so that may be your best option. You may want to consult with a local engineer who has expertise in residential stormwater management.

jootunk

What I would give to have acres of land. Have same issue with impervious covering here too, although it's 40% coverage. I used permeable pavers for my driveway when I built my old house. They look like regular driveway pavers but are permeable and were allowed to not count towards my coverage limits.

Dreaming of a more than a one car garage.