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After visiting the service department this morning, I now have the full story. Goes like this....tech who performed HPDE inspection (and one I worked with for 5 years and know well), puts an an order to the parts department for new front pads. For some reason or other, the parts department quotes rotors and gives back to SA, who really didn't know anything differently.
After I challenged SA with, 'are you sure I need rotors?', he brought in the tech who said, 'no, you don't need rotors, but for some strange reason that is what parts quoted'. Perhaps parts wanted to sell me rotors. The tech said your rotors are fine. Tech said at some point I may want to move to a bit more aggressive pad (than OEM), if you find you are replacing pads (OEM) to often. He did note that a more aggressive pad will wear the rotor a bit faster than OEM, so there may be a trade off I'll have to make. We agreed to take a look at more aggressive setup after this season (7 more days).
What's refreshing is the feedback on this site was consistent. You don't need rotors, and once I got to the bottom of it at the service department this morning, they agreed.
I have a little question, more or less "related" to rotors : the torque on calipers!
Do you use a specific torque for the calipers or are you doing this by hand?
Lane. I started to get judder under braking. car had 8 track days (our tracks are shot with slow corners so hard braking applications). It also has 8000 road miles but I should say over 1/3rd of those were very hard including autobahn runs in Europe etc.
The disc has thickness and some cracks around 1/4-1/2 inch but none joining and none running to the edge. Thickness shows 60% worn and pads getting eaten now I guess from the les than perfectly flat steel rotor friction surface.
I sounds like you have similar but got more track days from your pads. Maybe longer faster tracks and/or less aggressive back road and high speed road work.
Can you explain to me what "run out" is please as i think I have the same issues you had when you changed these and would like to be able to converse with the tech on the subject....
THe dimples (holes that are not all the way through) can be used as a rough measure of thickness. I use rotors up until they almost disappear. Yours appear to have about 50% of initial depth left. Unless dealer's techs saw something pictures do not show, rotors look at about 50%.
Even if you get could one more day out of them, why would you want to? One less thing to worry about, and brakes are the last thing I’d want to think twice about at the end of a long straight.
Even if you get could one more day out of them, why would you want to? One less thing to worry about, and brakes are the last thing I’d want to think twice about at the end of a long straight.
Indeed, won't take any risk and don't want to worry. Based upon my review of every older thread on the subject, not sure how to interpret current wear state. Hoping to hear from guys who have taken to my current condition or beyond. Seems like it's been some years since discussed. Another thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...ns-please.html
Also check any tech inspection requirements by the track event organizer.
Thanks. I've run through sets of slotted discs but never cross-drilled, so less familiar with the wear indications. No cracks to the OD or ID on my discs. Cracks aren't really connecting holes. I've seen some references to the dimples, but not sure how to read status of those, or if they're very relevant.
08-31-2015, 10:08 AM
Here Here to the Boys in the Band ; that would be RL
