Originally Posted by ejpoulsen

It's been a while since I took physics, but I do remember a couple things---a denser medium carries sound better, eg sound travels better in a piece of wood than through air; and in a vacuum like space sound cannot travel. So if the air is colder (and therefore denser), sound should travel better. Speed of sound travel is another matter, traveling faster in warm air than cool since the molecules are already moving faster. But in real world conditions, humidity, inversion, elevation, etc all come into play. So I think it's pretty hard to aggregate all the info to figure out. But for sure we can say that on 1/27/18, the Track Nanny made at least a 6 dB difference, comparing same model with and without.

Originally Posted by Mech33

Step 3 - program the Arduino board with the “Valve Debug” test firmware

The Valve Debug firmware file will simply switch the PSE valves open and closed every 5 seconds, letting you confirm audibly and visually that all of the wiring is functioning properly before re-programming it for GPS-based operation. These steps show you how to program the board.

Download the Ardunio programming software for your system (Windows, Mac, and Linux supported) from here and install it: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Plug your board into your computer over USB. The board should be powered via USB and be ready for programming. To program it, do the following:

1) Launch the Arduino software.

2) Open the “ValveDebug_v3.ino” file that you downloaded from here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...bug_v3.ino.zip



3) In the Ardunio app, go to the menu Sketch -> Include Library -> Manage Libraries… and search for “Adafruit GPS Library”, and click on Install to install the GPS library.

4) Go to the menu bar and select Tools -> Board -> Arduino Uno.

5) Go to the menu bar and select Tools -> Port -> and select the arduino usb modem port.

6) Go to the menu bar and select Tools -> Programmer -> AVRISP mkII

7) In the ValveDebug_v3.ino.ino window, click the check mark button in the upper left. This should compile the code error-free. Now click the right arrow button also in the upper left. This should program the board with the compiled binary. If that was successfully, then you’re board stack is now good to go!

Originally Posted by Amalgamated Tom

Originally Posted by anthonymckay

I'm almost certain it's a 12v on/off signal, but I haven't done any signal testing on the solenoid wires yet. I would be down to help adapt your Track Nanny to my car if you're interested? PM'ing members seems to be disabled for me, I'm guessing that's a limitation due to having just signed up on the forums and having no post history? I think if you send me a PM then I should at least be able to respond that way.

Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn

If memory serves, you need 3 posts to use the PM feature. I poked around the internet a bit, and it looks like you system does work much like the Porsche PSE. We'd just need to confirm polarity of the two pins, which side is switched, and whether how on/off equate to loud/quiet.

Originally Posted by Amalgamated Tom

That universal 4-wire approach doesn't take into account that the polarity is reversed on some cars (e.g., 991GT3 vs. GT4), so ideally you'd reverse the power leads (for cars with polarity the opposite of that shown) so that the flow of power through the solenoid remains in the same direction whether powered by the factory ECU or the GPS box. The solenoids may function with either polarity but, if so, I don't know if there's a flyback diode or other ECU spike protection in the solenoid that may be disabled by the reversed polarity. Of course, if you go to the trouble of confirming the polarity, then there's no real point to using the 4-wire approach. Beyond the 991GT3 and GT4, on some cars, the solenoid gets constant 12v and switches the low side to 12v to turn off the solenoid; and in some cars powering the solenoid may make the car quiet rather than loud and, in other cars, vice versa. All of which is to say, for someone trying to adapt this system to a Lambo, with an unknown solenoid set-up, I'd say he should really check out the signals in the car first and then wire accordingly.

Edit: by the way, I'm not being critical at all -- you've done an amazing job of making a complicated electronics project accessible to all! Just pitching in with details that might be useful to those tinkering/adapting in different ways.