RS Lightweight battery (Li-Ion)
#16
Rennlist Member
Interesting that the alternator wasn't sized to handle the power needs of the rear wheel steering system. I guess if the system is used only periodically you just drain the battery a bit from time to time and charge it back.
#17
Rennlist Member
The 997 Li battery option was a PITA.
No warranty and local dealer even stopped selling them altogether. Couple caught on fire as well.
Mine did but it put itself out I guess.
My 4.0 came with a Carbon Li battery very light, shut itself off when below certain level and came with key fob to activate de-activate. Good anti theft, the car had no radio so no setting were lost. If I'd do radio delete I'd get it, I think they are $1000-$1500.
Now with noted extra demand on battery I will just stay with a dry cell AGM battery if I need to replace the OEM one.
No warranty and local dealer even stopped selling them altogether. Couple caught on fire as well.
Mine did but it put itself out I guess.
My 4.0 came with a Carbon Li battery very light, shut itself off when below certain level and came with key fob to activate de-activate. Good anti theft, the car had no radio so no setting were lost. If I'd do radio delete I'd get it, I think they are $1000-$1500.
Now with noted extra demand on battery I will just stay with a dry cell AGM battery if I need to replace the OEM one.
#19
Race Director
Same stock battery, I believe, but they are supposed to have developed an optional Li-Ion battery with increased capacity to handle the RWS load.
#20
Also, FWIW - I am an electrical engineer and don't buy the suggestion that the alternator can't handle the RWS load. An AC and/or non-LED headlamps are a heavy load, and they don't get any amps from the battery. I don't have the amp requirements for RWS, but I just don't see it being an issue. Regardless, their are plenty or Braille Li batteries that can handle loads equal to or greater than the stock AGM battery. And they last longer.
#21
Rennlist Member
The original li-ion battery in my 2010 RS has been in the car for 5 years and still no issues whatsoever. FYI I don't leave it on a trickle charger, I wait until the battery chirps (first chirp, not the second chirp here it shuts down soon after), then drive it on a 5 mile circuit to warm everything up and keep all the seals lubricated. If the weather is bad, then I hook up the trickle charger until the light goes green and then unplug it. The car has 239 miles so you can guess how long it takes to lose enough charge to chirp, interval has not changed over the life of the car. I also use the same battery in a GT America racing car and have had several electrical problems but not related to the battery, although the storage capacity is much less than an AGM or std lead acid battery and I have heard other owners complain of low voltage alarms. The 2nd gen battery in the 991 RS looks physically different (larger) but I have no experience with that battery.
#22
Race Director
Also, FWIW - I am an electrical engineer and don't buy the suggestion that the alternator can't handle the RWS load. An AC and/or non-LED headlamps are a heavy load, and they don't get any amps from the battery. I don't have the amp requirements for RWS, but I just don't see it being an issue. Regardless, their are plenty or Braille Li batteries that can handle loads equal to or greater than the stock AGM battery. And they last longer.
Even so, I'm sure you're correct that there are other battery options. As long as one chooses an aftermarket Li-Ion that meets or exceeds the specs of the new Motorsport Li-Ion battery there shouldn't be a problem.
#24
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
#25
Rennlist Member
#26
Nordschleife Master