Cantrell Rollbar Installation
#46
Nordschleife Master
On a 25 minute session at thill, I go through 1/2 tank. The warning chime goes on almost every session I'm out there.
#47
Rennlist Member
warning chime and the computer screen overriding whatever you had on display originally (I usually have tire pressure screen showing). You have to manually pull on the stalk to clear the warning while driving. Then it comes back again.
On a 25 minute session at thill, I go through 1/2 tank. The warning chime goes on almost every session I'm out there.
On a 25 minute session at thill, I go through 1/2 tank. The warning chime goes on almost every session I'm out there.
Maybe reset MPG on cool down lap so it averages up a bit and so it will think it has a bit more range.
1/2 of the 90l tank? I hope not, that does not bode well for the RS...
#48
Nordschleife Master
#49
GT3 player par excellence
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It will be a significantly shorter install now that Cantrell has a sub bar that is far easier and quicker to install than the GMG plate version that requires drilling into the tub and a special tool for the threaded rivots that hold the plate in place. The Cantrell sub bar mount is a huge step forward, imho.
Yep, passenger track seat not set up for track use, headrest of track seats pushes head forward when wearing helmet, gas gauge doesn't account for extra gas in the extended tank, well-known buffeting problem still not fixed by Porsche years after becoming known, burns oil at the track as though it's gas, OEM Michelin tires currently out of stock, TPM behavior is whacky when tire pressures are lowered for track despite having a circuit mode, limited ability to add camber without aftermarket parts ... otherwise great car though!
new piwis can't program out all the stuff like the old piwis and durametric has no sol'n yet. but if you goto this store called HOME DEPOT and ask kinds the largest sledge hammer. it will resolve the warning light issue pronto.
#50
Rennlist Member
Yep, passenger track seat not set up for track use, headrest of track seats pushes head forward when wearing helmet, gas gauge doesn't account for extra gas in the extended tank, well-known buffeting problem still not fixed by Porsche years after becoming known, burns oil at the track as though it's gas, OEM Michelin tires currently out of stock, TPM behavior is whacky when tire pressures are lowered for track despite having a circuit mode, limited ability to add camber without aftermarket parts ... otherwise great car though!
Row clubsport comes with GT2 buckets with passenger cut out. Headrests work well with helmets. I don't believe it's the seat angle as it appears they are at least as laid back as the one piece buckets but the overall curve/shape of the seat is better and the base squab is shorter. They also seem more wear resistant than new seat from what I gather. rHD cars have no extended tank option so no issues there and the race circuit model is fiddle but does work. The trick here I find is to not lower the cold/hot pressures below 26. Start the first session on cold 26 then go from there. I just spent the weekend on a damp/wet track with 18-20c ambient temps and found 26 cold for the fronts ideal as I never put more than +4c into the tyres due to the wet track and I was surprised 30-32 hot on the fronts ran very nicely with 35-36 on the rears. I'm thinking the Mechlin guide for hot pressures on track with MPSC2 at 32/36 is quite realistic...
I have 918 seats in my planned GT4 but I'm wishing the Gt2 seats were available because though the former look better the later fit nicer and are tried and tested... But I agree the fuel gauge should read accurately there is no excuse!
#51
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I think these are all LHD/US issues.
Row clubsport comes with GT2 buckets with passenger cut out. Headrests work well with helmets. I don't believe it's the seat angle as it appears they are at least as laid back as the one piece buckets but the overall curve/shape of the seat is better and the base squab is shorter. They also seem more wear resistant than new seat from what I gather. rHD cars have no extended tank option so no issues there and the race circuit model is fiddle but does work. The trick here I find is to not lower the cold/hot pressures below 26. Start the first session on cold 26 then go from there. I just spent the weekend on a damp/wet track with 18-20c ambient temps and found 26 cold for the fronts ideal as I never put more than +4c into the tyres due to the wet track and I was surprised 30-32 hot on the fronts ran very nicely with 35-36 on the rears. I'm thinking the Mechlin guide for hot pressures on track with MPSC2 at 32/36 is quite realistic...
I have 918 seats in my planned GT4 but I'm wishing the Gt2 seats were available because though the former look better the later fit nicer and are tried and tested... But I agree the fuel gauge should read accurately there is no excuse!
Row clubsport comes with GT2 buckets with passenger cut out. Headrests work well with helmets. I don't believe it's the seat angle as it appears they are at least as laid back as the one piece buckets but the overall curve/shape of the seat is better and the base squab is shorter. They also seem more wear resistant than new seat from what I gather. rHD cars have no extended tank option so no issues there and the race circuit model is fiddle but does work. The trick here I find is to not lower the cold/hot pressures below 26. Start the first session on cold 26 then go from there. I just spent the weekend on a damp/wet track with 18-20c ambient temps and found 26 cold for the fronts ideal as I never put more than +4c into the tyres due to the wet track and I was surprised 30-32 hot on the fronts ran very nicely with 35-36 on the rears. I'm thinking the Mechlin guide for hot pressures on track with MPSC2 at 32/36 is quite realistic...
I have 918 seats in my planned GT4 but I'm wishing the Gt2 seats were available because though the former look better the later fit nicer and are tried and tested... But I agree the fuel gauge should read accurately there is no excuse!
I try to start at or above 26, but if I set 30 or 31 hot at the end of the prior session, and the car has been sitting for a while, it winds up dropping below 26.
#55
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#56
Nordschleife Master
Some of us opted to no have the belt guides welded in (theoretically a weak point/stress riser) and are using aluminum or steel collars instead.
#57
Rennlist Member
Thanks Joe! I was going to go red belts until I saw the silver. Matches the stitching well. Yes, I'll be getting steel collars soon!
#58
Nordschleife Master
Pics of the collars ? How are the welded guides a weak point. It seems to me they are there to keep the belts from sliding to the left or right. They are still wrapped around the bar.
#59
Nordschleife Master
#60
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The cantrell bar diameter is 1.75", but with powercoating, it comes to 1.774". To avoid damage to the bar, we had custom collars made. They were only $9.50 each for custom made aluminum ones. Email raceparts@frontiernet.net (www.ss-machining.com).
The actual process of welding the guides to the main bar theoretically weakens the bar. I'm not saying that it's anything of real world concern. Just theoretical. To be honest, I just just like the collar look better.
The actual process of welding the guides to the main bar theoretically weakens the bar. I'm not saying that it's anything of real world concern. Just theoretical. To be honest, I just just like the collar look better.