Z06

Do you have the stock Porsche brakes?

JRitt@essex

DS3.12 will coexist with DS1.11 moving forward. DS3.12 has a higher mu, a higher max operating temperature, and a flatter overall torque curve. That means 1) less pedal effort is required with the DS3.12, particularly as you get deeper into a stopping event. Some people like to press harder on the pedal, and others don't. Which you prefer will be a matter of taste. 2) You are never going to fade the DS3.12 (nobody has been able to fade the DS1.11, and the DS3.12 will take even more heat) 3) Our dyno shows that the DS3.12 will last longer, although we don't have enough real-world data yet to support that climb 4) the DS3.12 will make less squealing noise (again, not a lot of data points yet, but almost all data suggests this to be true)

I don't think there is much dispute that AP has proven to be the most durable disc on the market, and arguably the best value (in terms of $ per mile of use). I don't know of any customers who have switched from Giro to AP and have ever went back. Our AP J Hook discs are marginally more expensive, but again I don't know of anyone who bought them and thought they weren't worth what they paid. Brand equity is extremely high with AP, and our parts hold the most value on the used market as well (which is valuable when it's time to part and sell your car).

One of our fleet customers (Exotics Racing in Las Vegas) recently eclipsed 10,000 track miles on a set of AP Racing J Hooks on a 991 GT3 RS, and the discs still weren't completely dead! They just replaced them as a precautionary measure.

We've had several 991 GT3 owners use Tarret studs with our discs without any issues.

OEM pads really aren't suitable for the track. Yes, someone pussyfooting around an easy braking track can make them work for a number of laps, but they aren't really designed for continual heavy track thrashing (they're designed to also work on the street when a loaf of bread is required). Once they reach a certain temperature they will burn up very quickly. With a good set of racing pads (such as Ferodo), you get superior modulation at high temps, complete fade-resistance, and far longer pad life. You could install our discs with Ferodo pads and run a multi-hour endurance race. You'd decimate the OEM equipment if you did that.

The OEM discs are usable, but they aren't going to last very long relative to the AP J Hook discs. The drill holes cause cracking. Most people are better off just shelving the OEM components until they sell their car. In our experience the wise move is to invest in the highest-quality brake parts available, beat the heck out of them for a few years, and sell them when you move onto your next track toy. Your OEM brake parts will be pristine, and the car won't look like it went through a shredder. You'll also have money coming to you at the time of sale, rather than shelling out high prices for OEM spares, only to hand them over to the next owner!

For brake fluid, we're running a special on Ferodo Super Formula fluid...two free bottles with any $100 purchase. Ferodo Super Formula has a higher dry boiling point than Castrol SRF, and is an outstanding value.
https://www.essexparts.com/ferodo-su...e-fluid-2-pack

Mech33

Jeff, what actual test data on OEM 991 GT3 brake pad material do you have to support this assessment?

JRitt@essex

Absolutely none! We do however have a few hundred 991 GT3 customers who have all told us the Ferodo work better and last longer under track conditions than stock pads. We also have a few fleet customers who among them own approximately ten 991 GT3/RS. They all have put many, many thousands of track miles on their cars each year since this platform's release. They've compared our products with the OEM components, and the mileage differences they get out of the components are enormous.

Also, my assessment is based on 16-17 years of selling brakes every day. I'vebeen over, around, and through many pad compounds over the years...on my own cars, many thousands of customer cars, working hand-in-hand with pad suppliers from around the world, and on our own brake dyno. The pads that are optimized for road use (even part-time road use) never perform as well under brutal track conditions as pads designed explicitly for the track (just as full-race pads don't work as well on the street as a street pad!). They are two very different environments.

While I'll agree that the above is certainly not science without hard data, I'd estimate it as a mountain of anecdotal evidence!