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GT3 RS track build: delete everything deletable

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Old 03-09-2015, 06:07 PM
  #16  
usctrojanGT3
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Originally Posted by kosmo
forget the Factory "light weight" and get a lighter braille instead.
+991 Love my Braille battery.
Old 03-09-2015, 06:22 PM
  #17  
Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by sccchiii
I think headlights are a wash, I believe led assemblies weight a fraction more but xenon ballast probably offset that small difference. Extended tank is same weight as standard tank. Extra fuel, if you decide to top off is only weight difference.
I also suspect it's close to a wash between standard bi-xenons and LED's but for a different reason. I think in general LED's are lighter but since the Porsche LED's come with positioning motors for the dynamic swiveling function, they may be as heavy or heavier than standard bi-xenons which don't swivel.
Old 03-09-2015, 06:35 PM
  #18  
Laguna_Dude
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I would highly suggest anyone looking to get an RS as a dedicated track car to simply get a cup... main reason is safety and more performance for the money. And secondly, cups are race cars. they don't depreciate rapidly due to track use.. even with minor damage and repairs.. they are okay. that is their use. But run a street car.. and it's value is gone... hit a wall and it's tarnished. rebuild it's motor and it's now tainted... but a cup.. you're all good. only downside to cup is higher running costs due to support.. but rebuilds, etc are same. only cups it's a known need.. but if you track an RS or race it... you need to rebuild as well.. for club use.. both can go a long time before needing a rebuild though.
Old 03-09-2015, 07:12 PM
  #19  
Nizer
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Originally Posted by Glen
Why not a cup for the track and rs for street?
Originally Posted by Laguna_Dude
I would highly suggest anyone looking to get an RS as a dedicated track car to simply get a cup... main reason is safety and more performance for the money. And secondly, cups are race cars. they don't depreciate rapidly due to track use.. even with minor damage and repairs.. they are okay. that is their use. But run a street car.. and it's value is gone... hit a wall and it's tarnished. rebuild it's motor and it's now tainted... but a cup.. you're all good. only downside to cup is higher running costs due to support.. but rebuilds, etc are same. only cups it's a known need.. but if you track an RS or race it... you need to rebuild as well.. for club use.. both can go a long time before needing a rebuild though.
What they said.
Old 03-09-2015, 08:04 PM
  #20  
IvanBurns
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Originally Posted by usctrojanGT3
+991 Love my Braille battery.
In what Porsche are you using the Braille battery?

Which Braille battery are you using?
Old 03-09-2015, 08:13 PM
  #21  
sccchiii
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Originally Posted by Mike in CA
I also suspect it's close to a wash between standard bi-xenons and LED's but for a different reason. I think in general LED's are lighter but since the Porsche LED's come with positioning motors for the dynamic swiveling function, they may be as heavy or heavier than standard bi-xenons which don't swivel.
Sorry Mike I should have clarified... I meant the entire light assemblies for comparisons for same reasons you stated.

And I agree based on all other feedback that a CUP car is a better track only choice especially if the budget allows purchase of 2 RS to begin with.
Old 03-09-2015, 09:09 PM
  #22  
street
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I'm guessing the bigger tank adds weight. I believe they are sheet steel.

Slightly OT, I know a guy who completely "Cupped" a street 6 GT3 at about twice the cost of a new Cup Car in 2004. He wanted it to have a registration and plates. Where are you guys finding new Cup Cars for sale?
Old 03-09-2015, 09:52 PM
  #23  
sccchiii
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Originally Posted by street
I'm guessing the bigger tank adds weight. I believe they are sheet steel.

Slightly OT, I know a guy who completely "Cupped" a street 6 GT3 at about twice the cost of a new Cup Car in 2004. He wanted it to have a registration and plates. Where are you guys finding new Cup Cars for sale?
Who said "new" cup car?
Old 03-09-2015, 09:53 PM
  #24  
mdrums
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Originally Posted by anonymous918
I am most likely going to get two cars, one for the street with lift, comfy seats, etc. and one for the pure track driving. For the track I want to build the most lightweight car possible (yeah, i am nowhere near a good enough driver to feel the difference, i know. i just prefer on principle to have the most lightweight RS car possible regardless...)

so the options i am thinking of going with are:

- Lightweight battery
- PCCB
- deletion of model designation
- fire extinguisher
- A/C delete
- Radio delete

a couple of questions that i thought i'd ask just in case somebody knows:

- which headlights weight less, LED or Bi-Xenon?
- how much weight does extended range fuel tank add?
- how much weight illuminated door sill guards add?

thanks...
If I had that kind of money I'd get the RS for the street with some nice cool features on it and get a 991 GT3 Cup Car or 997 GT3 Cup car for track fun.
Old 03-09-2015, 10:50 PM
  #25  
997rs4.0
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I agree! If you plan to get one for track and one for street get a cup for track!

IMO This is the first RS that radio and AC delete doesn't feel right! The interior is just to luxurious.

The 997rs interior looks pretty good with radio delete especially with club sport package. It adds to the RS feel!
I know the American buyers are a bit different than Europeans. A loaded 997RS seems to be preferred to a stripper? It's the other way around in Europe!
Old 03-09-2015, 11:22 PM
  #26  
montoya
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Originally Posted by street
I'm guessing the bigger tank adds weight. I believe they are sheet steel.

Slightly OT, I know a guy who completely "Cupped" a street 6 GT3 at about twice the cost of a new Cup Car in 2004. He wanted it to have a registration and plates. Where are you guys finding new Cup Cars for sale?

Really? You need to expand your Rennlist explorations. Look in the Performance section- Cup Cars- they come up all the time.
Old 03-10-2015, 12:27 AM
  #27  
TRAKCAR
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Originally Posted by anonymous918
I am most likely going to get two cars, one for the street with lift, comfy seats, etc. and one for the pure track driving. For the track I want to build the most lightweight car possible (yeah, i am nowhere near a good enough driver to feel the difference, i know. i just prefer on principle to have the most lightweight RS car possible regardless...)

so the options i am thinking of going with are:

- Lightweight battery
- PCCB
- deletion of model designation
- fire extinguisher
- A/C delete
- Radio delete

a couple of questions that i thought i'd ask just in case somebody knows:

- which headlights weight less, LED or Bi-Xenon?
- how much weight does extended range fuel tank add?
- how much weight illuminated door sill guards add?

thanks...
Don't listen to the CUP car recommendations. Its a trick.

A couple of thoughts for an ideally equipped most collectable ultimate lightweight version:

Get a lightweight battery with remote "on and off" switch. You are not going to have radio settings to lose so I loved the feature that the aftermarket Lithium battery would kill the car like a Kill switch so you never have to worry about charging it. Leave the Porsche battery on a maintenance tender somewhere.

You need big fuel tank unless 40 minutes of track time is enough and you love pumping gas, the small one is a PITA.

Fire extinguisher; Id get a good one and put it on the roll bar behind me, out of the way of the passenger. Maybe a complete removable fire system for maximum safety?

I figure basic lights are the cheapest, no swiveling feature. Wish they brought back the sprayer delete halogen option, that's where the real weight is, you can lessen it to spray it empty.

Illuminated sills on the fat pig only I hope?

Besides that I would just add the CS lexan windows, less buffeting and less weight, dont forget the CS power cutoff and goes well with the Clubsport cage.

White is lightest.

I think that's as light as you can go with a street legal RS with only CS bolt in stuff that can be made completely stock again and its still lockable at the hotel at night.
Old 03-10-2015, 01:06 AM
  #28  
IvanBurns
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Don't listen to the CUP car recommendations. Its a trick.

A couple of thoughts for an ideally equipped most collectable ultimate lightweight version:

Get a lightweight battery with remote "on and off" switch. You are not going to have radio settings to lose so I loved the feature that the aftermarket Lithium battery would kill the car like a Kill switch so you never have to worry about charging it. Leave the Porsche battery on a maintenance tender somewhere.

.....
.....
If you have a battery with a kill switch, isn't that the same as disconnecting the battery from the car, which would mean that several ECU functions would have to be reset every time that you use the kill switch? In other words, wouldn't you have to reset things like the PSM and the windows closed positions?

Aside from that, what aftermarket lithium batteries have a kill switch?
Old 03-10-2015, 01:16 AM
  #29  
TRAKCAR
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I forgot the brand, I have to look it up.
Never had to reset anything on my 997? Maybe 991 is different.
Old 03-10-2015, 04:07 AM
  #30  
anonymous918
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thanks everybody.. the problem with a cup car is that you need to hire an army of people to manage it, maintain it, trailer it, etc.

with a street legal RS you can get into the car in the morning, go the track and drive back in the evening and that is the appealing part to me really...


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