Track Camber and Tire Pressure
#17
Race Car
Factory setting is -1.5deg (one degree, 30 minutes is what the manual states, which is 1.5 degrees) front camber with +2min toe. Rear camber -1.5deg with +10min toe. Front and rear anti-roll bars in center position.
#18
Updates?
Now that driving season is upon us in the Northern reaches I was wondering what people's further experiences with camber have been.
Max stock? How much camber have people gotten?
-2F/-2R ? Is this possible without shims? Is this still what people are liking? Impressions?
Also, I'm attaching the service manual specs for alignment that I got from my dealer.
Max stock? How much camber have people gotten?
-2F/-2R ? Is this possible without shims? Is this still what people are liking? Impressions?
Also, I'm attaching the service manual specs for alignment that I got from my dealer.
#19
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Limassol, Cyprus and DFW, Texas
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I have -2.2 degrees camber all the way around. This is without shims.
My RS had -3.0 in front and -2.5 in rear.
The problem with the 991 GT3 is that if you go -2.7 to -3.0 in the front you are getting to 11 deg of caster which is way too much and alters handling. The caster adjustment is not there. Ideal caster is around 7-8 degrees.
My RS had -3.0 in front and -2.5 in rear.
The problem with the 991 GT3 is that if you go -2.7 to -3.0 in the front you are getting to 11 deg of caster which is way too much and alters handling. The caster adjustment is not there. Ideal caster is around 7-8 degrees.
#20
2 weeks ago, I had a "track alignment" applied and new tires installed. Camber was set to -2 all around on dlr motor-sports tech recommendation. After 3 track days, the rears seem to be wearing very nicely whereas the fronts look like they could use a wee bit more. I was told more would "require parts" which I assumed meant shims. FWIW, there doesn't seem to be any big improvement in handling, only in tire wear... much more even across the tread. Kinda weird these two extra wheels...
BTW, has anyone tried the K spec MPSC2's? They're supposed to be a harder compound and am wondering if they might be the ticket for the TX heat.
BTW, has anyone tried the K spec MPSC2's? They're supposed to be a harder compound and am wondering if they might be the ticket for the TX heat.
#21
Nordschleife Master
I'm currently running a set of K spec. I think they are a harder compound because the grip isn't quite as good and the front tires still look good after 4 days whereas the n spec were done after 4 days
#22
#23
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I have -2.2 degrees camber all the way around. This is without shims.
My RS had -3.0 in front and -2.5 in rear.
The problem with the 991 GT3 is that if you go -2.7 to -3.0 in the front you are getting to 11 deg of caster which is way too much and alters handling. The caster adjustment is not there. Ideal caster is around 7-8 degrees.
My RS had -3.0 in front and -2.5 in rear.
The problem with the 991 GT3 is that if you go -2.7 to -3.0 in the front you are getting to 11 deg of caster which is way too much and alters handling. The caster adjustment is not there. Ideal caster is around 7-8 degrees.
#25
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Caster around 8 is about right. I may be wrong, but I found the higher the caster the more my steering shakes and is prone to going back to center on a turn which I don't like. A higher caster also causes more understeer.
#26
Nordschleife Master
-2.7 in the front, which gives me perfectly even tire wear, but that pushes my caster to 10, which needs adjustable thrust arm bushings to correct as I have rubbing on my inner fender liner
-2.9 in the rear, but I still get outer edge wear even with running that amount of camber
-2.9 in the rear, but I still get outer edge wear even with running that amount of camber
#27
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FWIW, I'm finding the car to understeer more than I expected, and am wondering if too much caster may be the reason. OTOH, my tire wear is fairly even with the -2.0 cambers, so maybe the camber gain from the extra caster explains why I don't need more than -2.0 camber?
#28
We have set up
6 991 gt3.
Ride height lowering 15mm in rear and 10mm up front is about all you can get without changing springs.
2.5-2.7 front is s start.
2.2-2.4 rear.
Call us for our toe and castor set up.
We have shims and are soon to have our own made so no Pmna prices.
991 half cages and 991 CSR exhaust still on sale this month only. Have in stock
Chris.smith@chrissmithracing.net
Thanks
6 991 gt3.
Ride height lowering 15mm in rear and 10mm up front is about all you can get without changing springs.
2.5-2.7 front is s start.
2.2-2.4 rear.
Call us for our toe and castor set up.
We have shims and are soon to have our own made so no Pmna prices.
991 half cages and 991 CSR exhaust still on sale this month only. Have in stock
Chris.smith@chrissmithracing.net
Thanks
#29
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Atlanta, Ga
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We have set up
6 991 gt3.
Ride height lowering 15mm in rear and 10mm up front is about all you can get without changing springs.
2.5-2.7 front is s start.
2.2-2.4 rear.
Call us for our toe and castor set up.
We have shims and are soon to have our own made so no Pmna prices.
991 half cages and 991 CSR exhaust still on sale this month only. Have in stock
Chris.smith@chrissmithracing.net
Thanks
6 991 gt3.
Ride height lowering 15mm in rear and 10mm up front is about all you can get without changing springs.
2.5-2.7 front is s start.
2.2-2.4 rear.
Call us for our toe and castor set up.
We have shims and are soon to have our own made so no Pmna prices.
991 half cages and 991 CSR exhaust still on sale this month only. Have in stock
Chris.smith@chrissmithracing.net
Thanks