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Ok decision time - lets talk xpel clear bra - yes I have searched

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Old 01-27-2015, 10:25 PM
  #61  
Bruno Giacomelli
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Originally Posted by mrsullivan
corporate store...

maybe its because I flirted with the very attractive sales manager...

no but seriously, PM me an email address and I will send you the pricing breakdown... I was told that I was getting a small discount because of a mutual friend/contact that referred me there... but not much....

all about relationships, as we have been discussing and agreeing...
But JONATHAN: "For God's sake it's not about the money!!!" ?!?!?
Old 01-27-2015, 10:41 PM
  #62  
Lodi
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Originally Posted by Haku
I did full bumpers, hood, front fenders, mirrors, leading edge of roof, pillars, rockers, 1/4 doors, high up on rear fenders (almost entire), part of bumper directly behind wheels.

If I had to choose the absolute must have areas, it would be the rockers and rear fenders. With the amount of chips and debris these tires throw up, those xpel areas have taken the most amount of damage and saved my paintwork no end.
Haku and I have the same installer and this the same coverage. I agree that the rockers and the front half of the rear fenders take a beating from debris. If you were going to leave anything off I think it would be a-pillars, leading edge of roof and mirrors.
Old 01-28-2015, 01:03 AM
  #63  
mrsullivan
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Originally Posted by Bruno Giacomelli
But JONATHAN: "For God's sake it's not about the money!!!" ?!?!?
haha... its not about the pricing... others were just asking what people paid and it seems that pricing for this service is a bit driven by the region/market...
Old 01-28-2015, 01:03 AM
  #64  
mrsullivan
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Originally Posted by Mech33
Sounds like the edges of the film will be exposed then (not wrapped around panel edges).
no edges exposed according to xpel
Old 04-20-2015, 02:50 PM
  #65  
mcsmcs1
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@mrsullivan- PM sent on Austin XPEL

What did you end up doing and how did it turn out?
Old 04-20-2015, 07:22 PM
  #66  
Jay-O
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I have booked the car to be wrapped in Xpel
Full front wrap , fenders , hood , bumper ,mirrors
Rockers and rear quarter panels

We get a lot of sand and gravel left on the road it chews up the rockers and rear quarter panels
Getting installed for $2500 cdn
Old 04-20-2015, 09:36 PM
  #67  
Mr. Adair
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IMO It's a no brainer to get the protection. My Cayman S took 4 BIG diggers to the hood from debris from cars in front of me. This discoloration issue, why is no one discussing whether it can be removed/buffed polished out after removal? That's what I'd like to ask a good detailer? Thoughts?
Old 04-20-2015, 09:52 PM
  #68  
WernerE
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Originally Posted by mooty
one piece bumper (if your guy needs more than one piece to do bumper, he is LAME)
one piece hood
one piece front fender
all wheel arches
sill up to front of rear fender
mirror
all front lights
that is $3000

whole car is $9000

no i am not kidding on the price.
That's what I paid for everything mentioned using Xpel. I'm pleased with the work. Pay now or pay later (in the form of psychic energy lost and resale).
Old 04-20-2015, 11:33 PM
  #69  
gunnyosu
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Originally Posted by Manifold
What are you guys paying to do the full front of the car (hood, fender, bumper) plus mirrors and a-pillars? My dealer is quoting around $3K using latest 3M film, which seems rather high to me. And anyone know anything about how good (or not) the 3M film is?
My installer is recommending 3M pro series over xpel, llumar, and suntek (he has worked with all of them). I have the front bumper and headlights of my C63 covered with it and am pretty happy thus far (been about 6 months). Anyone else with 3M pro series?

My gt3 goes in Thursday for film and I cannot decide whether or not to do headlights....?
Old 06-25-2015, 05:25 PM
  #70  
DBLinSquan
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Reading this long and very good 5 page thread, I am about convinced to not go forward with protective film, mostly because of the yellowing tales and need to replace every 5 (?) years. I was quoted $1600 for XPel Ultimate front end right up to windshield - this area is where all my current chips are. Meanwhile, I am taking the midnight blue 993 into a body shop next week to have the front end (bumper, fenders, hood, mirrors) cleaned up and repainted. Why would I not just do the re-spray way down the road if I take on too many chips and avoid the hassles of the clear bra?
Old 06-25-2015, 05:40 PM
  #71  
ipse dixit
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Originally Posted by DBLinSquan
Reading this long and very good 5 page thread, I am about convinced to not go forward with protective film, mostly because of the yellowing tales and need to replace every 5 (?) years. I was quoted $1600 for XPel Ultimate front end right up to windshield - this area is where all my current chips are. Meanwhile, I am taking the midnight blue 993 into a body shop next week to have the front end (bumper, fenders, hood, mirrors) cleaned up and repainted. Why would I not just do the re-spray way down the road if I take on too many chips and avoid the hassles of the clear bra?
No reason whatsoever.

Some people like having sex au naturel and are ok with a large family, others prefer to avoid the hassles of having unwanted children.

But on a serious note, it just comes down to personal preferences.

Some, like you (and myself to some extent), really enjoy the natural feel and look of paint, and would prefer to just live with the paint chips, road rashes, and the eventual natural patina that builds up from using the car as it was designed to be used -- i.e., driven and not garaged.

Others, intend to use the car as it was designed to be used, but cringe at the thought of having to look at the scars from such daily and intended use.

No right or wrong answers. Either way, car is going to get dinged, and either way you (the owner) will end up paying if you use the car like it was designed to be used.
Old 06-25-2015, 06:05 PM
  #72  
DBLinSquan
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Sorry, I mentioned the XPel was $1600 but forgot to mention the entire upcoming body work (with lots of little scratches, chips to be taken care of) is $2200. So I lean to paying $2.2K say every 5-10 years to refresh her (she's a keeper) vs clear protect replace at $1.6 maybe a little more often if it's yellowing etc.
Old 06-26-2015, 12:09 PM
  #73  
Nizer
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Originally Posted by mooty
^ you either dont wrap you u NEED full hood and fender.
^Yup.

Plus doors, sills, front of rear fenders will get sand blasted by front wheels; lower rear bumper by rear wheels. Roof and A-pillar will get throttled by clag if you track; if not then only leading edge of roof and A-pillar depending on roads.

Originally Posted by mrsullivan
its about having headlights, etc. removed, not being able to wax/appreciate paint, yellowing, mixmatched paint coloring if you remove later, etc. Not sure there is a right or wrong answer, but this thread has helped me a lot in terms of my thinking... thank you!
You can clean and polish clear film. Just need the right products. Mis-matched paint shouldn't be an issue unless the cars sees extended sun exposure. Garaged? Wouldn't worry.

All film yellows. If it bothers you peel, rinse, and repeat. Most sell car long before.
Old 06-26-2015, 01:46 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by gunnyosu
My installer is recommending 3M pro series over xpel, llumar, and suntek (he has worked with all of them). I have the front bumper and headlights of my C63 covered with it and am pretty happy thus far (been about 6 months). Anyone else with 3M pro series?

My gt3 goes in Thursday for film and I cannot decide whether or not to do headlights....?

Read this thread before doing the headlights:
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3/...amination.html
Old 06-26-2015, 03:02 PM
  #75  
Shivatron
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Originally Posted by DBLinSquan
Why would I not just do the re-spray way down the road if I take on too many chips and avoid the hassles of the clear bra?
My answer: because non-OEM paint sucks.

Even if you are paying huge money for a paint job, you're dealing with overspray, imperfect paint color/flake match, blending adjacent panels, et cetera. The car will get disassembled, and anyone who has removed trim from cars know that it never goes back on quite as well as it comes off. Even in a "nice" positive pressure booth, your local paint shop doesn't have the sort of dust control that the factory does, meaning there will probably be little flecks of dust in the fresh coat. The paint will be baked onto the car at a far lower temperature than the factory bake, meaning that the new paint will never be quite as durable.

Clear bra, OTOH, just peels off when it's yellowed or damaged, and you can slap on a new one. That seems far less invasive to me. And because you can just peel it off you can slap on a new one whenever you fancy, whereas painting your car for every little mark would probably be seen as excessive. About the only downside I can think of is that it might be more expensive over the life of the car. I'm okay with that.

Just my $0.02, of course.


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