Orthojoe's track build journal
02-17-2017, 11:07 AM
#1771
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mlkissel1
Hi All, Doing my first track event in my recently acquired 991 GT3. Everything stock, and putting new heat cycled MP Cup tires on. I am by no means an expert driver, and still very much learning the car. Much discussion on sway bar settings for track......soft front Med rear, middle front hard rear. Have not made it thought your now 118 pages of information, but any recommendations to start learning this car on the track? Got a couple auto crosses in the car before it got cold here on the east coast, and soft back and med front was nice for slow speeds and keeping the back in line......Thanks all for newbee GT3 guy
Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
^^ Don't worry about it for now.
A good starting point is both middle and see how you progress.
A good starting point is both middle and see how you progress.
I should make a small update:
1). A good buddy was kind enough to let me use his 19" forgelines on my car. In order to get them to fit, we had to swap out a toe link bolt. Oem part 99907353001. The car is riding on 255-35-19 and 305-30-19 Bridgestone Re71r tires. Overall rolling diameter is about 1" lower than stock, but zero issues with abs or esc. The car feels great. These tires are substantially cheaper than cup2, last longer, are more consistent, and they don't heat cycle out. I'm getting even tire wear all around as well. Love the setup. I only had one full session in the car with a bunch of traffic, but my 2nd lap out was 1:58 over the top at thill. I should be able to match or beat my best time of 1:57.4 there with these tires.
2). The car hit 5870 track miles, which means it is time to swap out the rear hubs and bearings along with all 4 centerlock nuts. Some guys have posted overall dealer cost is $5k to do this. I bought the parts from sunset for $2k (close to $1k for just the stupid centerlock nuts). I estimate my indie will be able to do the job for less than $1k.
02-17-2017, 11:41 AM
#1772
Track Day
Join Date: Sep 2016
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Thanks All. The dealer said that the car is set up "neutral" and don't screw with it until you learn it. I guess I should believe them. I am sure it will be a blast. Thanks for the advice!!!!!!!!
One last thing, Orthojoe. I too love the photo of your kids in the front/back of the car looking out. Be forewarned though. My kids started out that way, and now are total gear heads, and do events with the wife and me!!!!!! The worst part is they are VERY good!!!!
One last thing, Orthojoe. I too love the photo of your kids in the front/back of the car looking out. Be forewarned though. My kids started out that way, and now are total gear heads, and do events with the wife and me!!!!!! The worst part is they are VERY good!!!!
02-17-2017, 01:13 PM
#1773
Rennlist Member
Hi Joe - if you don't mind me asking, who's the indie you go to in the Bay Area?
Do you just use him for track prep or all P-car maintenance etc.?
Do you just use him for track prep or all P-car maintenance etc.?
02-17-2017, 01:31 PM
#1774
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks All. The dealer said that the car is set up "neutral" and don't screw with it until you learn it. I guess I should believe them. I am sure it will be a blast. Thanks for the advice!!!!!!!!
One last thing, Orthojoe. I too love the photo of your kids in the front/back of the car looking out. Be forewarned though. My kids started out that way, and now are total gear heads, and do events with the wife and me!!!!!! The worst part is they are VERY good!!!!
One last thing, Orthojoe. I too love the photo of your kids in the front/back of the car looking out. Be forewarned though. My kids started out that way, and now are total gear heads, and do events with the wife and me!!!!!! The worst part is they are VERY good!!!!
I use competition autowerks in San Ramon. Tom works by referral and appointment only. I use him for anything I can't do or don't want to do! Track prep and maintenance.
02-20-2017, 04:59 PM
#1775
Rennlist Member
The best advice I can give you is to ignore everything in this thread FOR NOW and leave the car bone stock. Once you have around 6 days under your belt and you get a feel for the car, then start reading and it will all start to make sense. For now, leave it all alone and go have a blast!
I should make a small update:
1). A good buddy was kind enough to let me use his 19" forgelines on my car. In order to get them to fit, we had to swap out a toe link bolt. Oem part 99907353001. The car is riding on 255-35-19 and 305-30-19 Bridgestone Re71r tires. Overall rolling diameter is about 1" lower than stock, but zero issues with abs or esc. The car feels great. These tires are substantially cheaper than cup2, last longer, are more consistent, and they don't heat cycle out. I'm getting even tire wear all around as well. Love the setup. I only had one full session in the car with a bunch of traffic, but my 2nd lap out was 1:58 over the top at thill. I should be able to match or beat my best time of 1:57.4 there with these tires.
2). The car hit 5870 track miles, which means it is time to swap out the rear hubs and bearings along with all 4 centerlock nuts. Some guys have posted overall dealer cost is $5k to do this. I bought the parts from sunset for $2k (close to $1k for just the stupid centerlock nuts). I estimate my indie will be able to do the job for less than $1k.
I should make a small update:
1). A good buddy was kind enough to let me use his 19" forgelines on my car. In order to get them to fit, we had to swap out a toe link bolt. Oem part 99907353001. The car is riding on 255-35-19 and 305-30-19 Bridgestone Re71r tires. Overall rolling diameter is about 1" lower than stock, but zero issues with abs or esc. The car feels great. These tires are substantially cheaper than cup2, last longer, are more consistent, and they don't heat cycle out. I'm getting even tire wear all around as well. Love the setup. I only had one full session in the car with a bunch of traffic, but my 2nd lap out was 1:58 over the top at thill. I should be able to match or beat my best time of 1:57.4 there with these tires.
2). The car hit 5870 track miles, which means it is time to swap out the rear hubs and bearings along with all 4 centerlock nuts. Some guys have posted overall dealer cost is $5k to do this. I bought the parts from sunset for $2k (close to $1k for just the stupid centerlock nuts). I estimate my indie will be able to do the job for less than $1k.
02-20-2017, 07:34 PM
#1777
Track Day
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 23
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Hay guys, two more nube questions,
If I should leave the sway bar stock, middle front and back, would it matter if I put them firm front and back? I have read that tire ware on the track is better that way. Would firm at both ends compromise handling too much?
On the subject of tires, replacing Dunlop Race OEM on the car that are heat cycled out. I have always liked the Michelin product, cup 2's, but I hear good things about the Trefaios. Probably many school of thought on this, but thought I would ask before droping 2k on wrong tires.....thanks.
If I should leave the sway bar stock, middle front and back, would it matter if I put them firm front and back? I have read that tire ware on the track is better that way. Would firm at both ends compromise handling too much?
On the subject of tires, replacing Dunlop Race OEM on the car that are heat cycled out. I have always liked the Michelin product, cup 2's, but I hear good things about the Trefaios. Probably many school of thought on this, but thought I would ask before droping 2k on wrong tires.....thanks.
02-20-2017, 08:11 PM
#1778
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Just to echo Joe, I am also running a 255 and 305 19" RE71R setup on GA1R Forgeline wheels. I also love it! Great grip, better price. I tried putting 305/19 NT01's on the rear and the grip was nowhere near as good as the RE71R's. Just switched back at my last track event at Willow Springs this weekend and set a personal best of 1:29.50. I have looked and looked and can not find a better setup for the money.
It was my understanding that there aren't any 19" choices in RS tire sizes?
Hay guys, two more nube questions,
If I should leave the sway bar stock, middle front and back, would it matter if I put them firm front and back? I have read that tire ware on the track is better that way. Would firm at both ends compromise handling too much?
On the subject of tires, replacing Dunlop Race OEM on the car that are heat cycled out. I have always liked the Michelin product, cup 2's, but I hear good things about the Trefaios. Probably many school of thought on this, but thought I would ask before droping 2k on wrong tires.....thanks.
If I should leave the sway bar stock, middle front and back, would it matter if I put them firm front and back? I have read that tire ware on the track is better that way. Would firm at both ends compromise handling too much?
On the subject of tires, replacing Dunlop Race OEM on the car that are heat cycled out. I have always liked the Michelin product, cup 2's, but I hear good things about the Trefaios. Probably many school of thought on this, but thought I would ask before droping 2k on wrong tires.....thanks.
You probably haven't heard my thoughts on TrofeoRs:
I hate them and will never touch those tires ever again. Very temperamental when it comes to pressures and temps, are only good for 2 days, cost more, and are NO faster than cup2. Some agree with me, some don't.
02-21-2017, 12:02 AM
#1781
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nxfedlt1
have either of you compared the 245s against the 255s with the 305 rear on the re71rs?
02-21-2017, 12:29 AM
#1782
Rennlist Member
Yes the RE71R's run a little narrower than the Cup2's but it's true for the rears as well. Thus relatively then the 255's still provide a slight change in grip balance between front and rear.
