Oil Level Above Max
01-25-2015, 04:57 PM
#61
Race Director
After I had my oil changed, a week later the yellow oil light came on saying it was over MAX
but permitted to drive. So I decided to wait it out and let it burn off. 900 miles later the light
was still on. It was driving me crazy having to minimize the warning every time I started the car.
So with the help of a fellow rennlister I rigged up the attached vacuum pump and bleeder bottle
to measure the extraction. The best tubing to stick down into the filler hole turns out to be
plastic ice maker line tubing. I cut about a 3 foot length and attached to the bleeder bottle.
Next it is important to do this after oil temp is heated up to around 200 degrees. And then
immediately after shutting off the engine stick the tube down and twist it while pushing it in and
also be working the vacuum handle at the same time. It helps if you have a helping hand.
I was able to get about 2 feet into the engine and then gathered oil.
It turns out I needed to remove about 130cc oil to get back into the green!
One thing is for sure, my engine isn't burning much oil. So I got that going for me.
Which is nice.
Thanks Alan C.! It was all your research!
but permitted to drive. So I decided to wait it out and let it burn off. 900 miles later the light
was still on. It was driving me crazy having to minimize the warning every time I started the car.
So with the help of a fellow rennlister I rigged up the attached vacuum pump and bleeder bottle
to measure the extraction. The best tubing to stick down into the filler hole turns out to be
plastic ice maker line tubing. I cut about a 3 foot length and attached to the bleeder bottle.
Next it is important to do this after oil temp is heated up to around 200 degrees. And then
immediately after shutting off the engine stick the tube down and twist it while pushing it in and
also be working the vacuum handle at the same time. It helps if you have a helping hand.
I was able to get about 2 feet into the engine and then gathered oil.
It turns out I needed to remove about 130cc oil to get back into the green!
One thing is for sure, my engine isn't burning much oil. So I got that going for me.
Which is nice.
Thanks Alan C.! It was all your research!
01-25-2015, 05:16 PM
#62
After I had my oil changed, a week later the yellow oil light came on saying it was over MAX
but permitted to drive. So I decided to wait it out and let it burn off. 900 miles later the light
was still on. It was driving me crazy having to minimize the warning every time I started the car.
So with the help of a fellow rennlister I rigged up the attached vacuum pump and bleeder bottle
to measure the extraction. The best tubing to stick down into the filler hole turns out to be
plastic ice maker line tubing. I cut about a 3 foot length and attached to the bleeder bottle.
Next it is important to do this after oil temp is heated up to around 200 degrees. And then
immediately after shutting off the engine stick the tube down and twist it while pushing it in and
also be working the vacuum handle at the same time. It helps if you have a helping hand.
I was able to get about 2 feet into the engine and then gathered oil.
It turns out I needed to remove about 130cc oil to get back into the green!
One thing is for sure, my engine isn't burning much oil. So I got that going for me.
Which is nice.
Thanks Alan C.! It was all your research!
but permitted to drive. So I decided to wait it out and let it burn off. 900 miles later the light
was still on. It was driving me crazy having to minimize the warning every time I started the car.
So with the help of a fellow rennlister I rigged up the attached vacuum pump and bleeder bottle
to measure the extraction. The best tubing to stick down into the filler hole turns out to be
plastic ice maker line tubing. I cut about a 3 foot length and attached to the bleeder bottle.
Next it is important to do this after oil temp is heated up to around 200 degrees. And then
immediately after shutting off the engine stick the tube down and twist it while pushing it in and
also be working the vacuum handle at the same time. It helps if you have a helping hand.
I was able to get about 2 feet into the engine and then gathered oil.
It turns out I needed to remove about 130cc oil to get back into the green!
One thing is for sure, my engine isn't burning much oil. So I got that going for me.
Which is nice.
Thanks Alan C.! It was all your research!
01-25-2015, 05:55 PM
#63
Burning Brakes
Good job, Rob. Obviously hard to get to the oil because of the dry sump system. Do you or anyone else know if one attempts this with the engine running, would the oil be at a much higher level and easier to extract? I'm talking less than a foot away from the filler nozzle. Outside of possible minor splattering, what can go wrong if one uncaps the oil compartment with the engine on?
after shutting it off, there is plenty of oil to be had. Just need to get by the
first snag point, which you can feel pretty easy and then you can get another
2 inches or so in and strike black gold. I found it to be very easy.
On the other hand if you try after a minute or two after shutting off the engine,
forget it. All the oil has moved away and you are just sucking air.
01-25-2015, 06:33 PM
#64
Well, you really don't need to leave it on. If you stick the tube in immediately
after shutting it off, there is plenty of oil to be had. Just need to get by the
first snag point, which you can feel pretty easy and then you can get another
2 inches or so in and strike black gold. I found it to be very easy.
On the other hand if you try after a minute or two after shutting off the engine,
forget it. All the oil has moved away and you are just sucking air.
after shutting it off, there is plenty of oil to be had. Just need to get by the
first snag point, which you can feel pretty easy and then you can get another
2 inches or so in and strike black gold. I found it to be very easy.
On the other hand if you try after a minute or two after shutting off the engine,
forget it. All the oil has moved away and you are just sucking air.
01-25-2015, 09:17 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
If you open the oil fill cap with the engine running you run the chance of triggering a code.
Rob, Thanks for posting the photos.
Attached is a parts photo showing the oil fill path. Part #15 is where about 20" of tubing will stop. Straight across is the oil tank. The oil will drain back after the car is shut off.
Rob, Thanks for posting the photos.
Attached is a parts photo showing the oil fill path. Part #15 is where about 20" of tubing will stop. Straight across is the oil tank. The oil will drain back after the car is shut off.
Last edited by Alan C.; 09-22-2015 at 10:44 PM.
01-28-2015, 12:08 PM
#66
Burning Brakes
Well I did the same thing. First oil change and we put in only seven quarts which put it two bars below absolute max. After a couple of days added barely 1/8 of a quart which brought it one bar up. Drove it for several days no problem and all of a sudden yellow warning. I agree with a lot of the posts on causes but I don't understand why the light comes on even with out starting the engine but just turning the key? Its like the computer keeps it in memory. Any one getting the same?
01-28-2015, 12:17 PM
#67
Well I did the same thing. First oil change and we put in only seven quarts which put it two bars below absolute max. After a couple of days added barely 1/8 of a quart which brought it one bar up. Drove it for several days no problem and all of a sudden yellow warning. I agree with a lot of the posts on causes but I don't understand why the light comes on even with out starting the engine but just turning the key? Its like the computer keeps it in memory. Any one getting the same?
01-28-2015, 12:59 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
With my 964, I've always been told to fill about 1/2 quart low. This sets the dash gauge to read dead center at 9:00. I would think with any car, being a 1/2 quart low is totally fine, rather than trying to hit the top bar. It's not like anyone is going to add oil when it shows a couple bars low anyway, correct?
01-28-2015, 01:22 PM
#70
Burning Brakes
Yes. Next time sticking to only putting in 7 quarts. That brings it to the correct level. The manual is off on how much to put in at oil changes. Makes it much easier actually rather than having an open quart sitting around.
01-28-2015, 03:54 PM
#72
With my 964, I've always been told to fill about 1/2 quart low. This sets the dash gauge to read dead center at 9:00. I would think with any car, being a 1/2 quart low is totally fine, rather than trying to hit the top bar. It's not like anyone is going to add oil when it shows a couple bars low anyway, correct?
01-29-2015, 02:35 AM
#73
I had this happen - drove 400 miles and car was happy with oil level. Got in to drive home, said too much oil but yellow/ok to drive. Was Sunday so no one to ask so I drove home and inquired the next day and they said that sensor is extremely sensitive to having too much oil, and they removed some of it, but they told me that it had not harmed it to continue driving. They said if the car had been burning oil/smoking then that would be a sign that it was truly too much and was doing damage to the engine.
