ipse dixit

Hey Mike, hope you know I was only joking.

Engine break-in is one of those personal things. Like the FAL.

Mike in CA

And that's why we hash this stuff out over and over....I learn something on this forum almost every day.

As 911dev points out, there is not a definitive body of information on this issue. To the best of my knowledge, nobody on the outside has ever done a controlled scientific study on a large batch of engines, over many years, to determine rates of wear at various times in engines that were broken in different ways. The people with the best insight into this issue are the manufacturers and we know and some distrust what THEY say. Anything else we hear anecdotally on forums, from individual techs, owners, or your local engine builder is unscientific speculation.

Which is why it comes down to an emotional decision and we have these repeated discussions in an attempt to validate our choices.

Mike (who must add, that article was pretty enlightening and validates HIS choice....)

ipse, it must have been my turkey overload....I wasn't sure if you were joking. My bad. And I agree completely; the decision on engine break-in is definitely personal.

rockitman

Makes sense to me. I am going to take it easy varying revs for the first 1000 with some short bursts up 7,000 after 500 miles. I will drive in manual to always keep revs above 2k...so as to avoid any bogging.

Mike in CA

I did notice that, Chris!

I believe each car, as it comes off the production line, is run on the rolling dyno and each engine is cold/dry-run on a test jig, but generally only a very small percentage of engines are now hot-run up to 80% on the engine dyno for 30 minutes.

Except for our GT3 engines. When I was at the factory this past June I was told that, as an additional quality check after the connecting rod problem, every GT3 replacement engine was being hot-run dyno tested.

911dev

Good to know.

WernerE

I've always kept things under 4,500 - 5,000 RPM before 1,500 -1,800 miles. It's not easy, but the article linked to by Mike CA appears more credible than the glib "drive it like you stole it" suggestion.

aamersa

I drive my cars hard from the beginning. I don't abuse them but never really worry about where the needle is on the rpm. No problems encountered so far. Also I tend to put on lots of mileage in the first 6-12 months in the process catching any potential problems that need attention of the warranty. I never change engine oil except per manufacturer schedule. To each their own. Some get just as much pleasure babying their cars as others get driving them. Either way it is still pleasure, the main reason we buy these cars. My gt3 is due in port Dec 22.

devenh

The article seems to stress controlling heat as opposed to RPM. Running sustained high RPM's obviously builds heat, so this should be avoided. But it doesn't seem to rule out short bursts of high RPM's that wouldn't move the engine temperature needle much.

Napoli

This. But, why, then (again), only for USA owners?

Mike in CA

The article refers to heat being generated by driving the engine for an "extended period of time", not just driving at sustained high RPM, which isn't typical for street driving anyway. I think all of us have experienced engine temperatures climbing in everyday driving on a warm day in traffic, where sustained high RPM isn't even a remote possibility.

Oil and water temperature gauges may give an accurate measure of fluid temperatures, but aren't necessarily the best indicator of the thermal stress on individual components, so I don't know how anyone could determine when engine parts were not too cold, not to hot, but just right to sneak in a quick high RPM burst.

If one believes the info in the article, the logic of why a measured break-in is a good idea is pretty clear. If one doesn't believe it, then carry on. But regardless of the facts, we all often find ways to rationalize how our own preconceptions are correct, don't we.....

Mike in CA

This continues to be repeated. Does it really say nothing about break-in in ROW owner's manuals?

rockitman

I think your procedure has been validated versus multiple launch control starts through the gears for first 30 - 200 miles on a repeated basis.

R.Deacon

Dan,
Well crap is right, I was thinking 1000 miles oil change then Sebring,
guess next weekend I drive to my Doctor in NYC and back to FL
varying the throttle the whole way of coarse.
My last car 997.2 Targa 4s I left the dealer and the next day drove it to R.I. from Fl.
that motor was built proof for me in 60+ track events

Deacon

Lodi

Good read Dan. Thanks! I wonder if the use of synthetic oil makes the break in process longer. I have a tiny amount of experience building motorcycle engines. I never used synthetic till after an engine was broken in. The logic was that you wanted the additional friction of non-synthetic oil improve the seating process.

hfm

Deacon,

Sorry to spoil your Sebring trip. If it's any consolation, I'm going with Herr Porsche Engineeer's recommendation too and won't be redlining until 2k. I will break in per factory recommendations varying throttle as well, doing longer trips, warming up before moving and keeping under 4,200.

Lodi,

I agree, synthetic makes break in longer. Some people might use regular oil but, I don't think I'm going to do that nor do I think I will do the oil change at 50 miles or 1-2k miles. I think I'm just going to go with whatever Porsche guidelines are at this point and hope I don't end up with an oil consuming engine. If I do, it will be covered.

Dan (doesn't fight expert opinion)