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Old 11-29-2014, 03:45 PM
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hfm
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At Moe's recommendation, I have asked my dealership not to wash the car upon delivery. This is to avoid any swirl marks from the onset or scratching debris on to the paint. If you're in the same boat, you may want to ask your dealership to hold off on washing the car.
Old 11-29-2014, 08:09 PM
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yup - Will is my man, and he asked me to tell the dealership to do the same thing. In fact he has asked to be at the dealer when they take off the protective plastic.

http://xclusiveautoworks.com/
Old 11-29-2014, 09:05 PM
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I picked mine up untouched. Spent 30 hrs detailing. Wash, Iron X, Wash, clay bar, Polish, polish, jeweler polish, alcohol wash, nano ceramic. And it will see track action, but not before clear bra.
Old 11-30-2014, 10:57 AM
  #64  
MoeMistry
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Originally Posted by hfm
At Moe's recommendation, I have asked my dealership not to wash the car upon delivery. This is to avoid any swirl marks from the onset or scratching debris on to the paint. If you're in the same boat, you may want to ask your dealership to hold off on washing the car.
I only wish more dealerships would simply invest some time and money in properly training their wash guys. All it takes is for them to find a reputable detailer, 1-day seminar, and some proper towels and mitts.

It's like me doing an oil change or brake job on your 911 while you're here for you clear bra installation. In some cases, like me doing an engine overhaul. Sure I could probably pull it off, I'll just watch a few videos on YouTube, but I may have some spare parts from your engine that you probably didn't need

All joking aside, cars of this caliber shouldn't be treated and cared for by those inexperienced...but, the change starts with you guys. If enough of you ask for no washing and explain why, hopefully it's a matter of time before someone's ears, hopefully at Porsche Headquarters, hears the huge problem.

Until then, you have guys like me telling you bring your brand new, dirty and dusty, 911 to our asylum, and I'll see you in a few days
Old 11-30-2014, 01:25 PM
  #65  
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Moe, my car is at the dealer as I type. The front lift had a malfunction and I had to take it in. I told them 10x not to wash it. And I still am paranoid that they will. I certainly hope not....


Originally Posted by MoeMistry
I only wish more dealerships would simply invest some time and money in properly training their wash guys. All it takes is for them to find a reputable detailer, 1-day seminar, and some proper towels and mitts.
Old 11-30-2014, 08:59 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by RUF RS
Moe, my car is at the dealer as I type. The front lift had a malfunction and I had to take it in. I told them 10x not to wash it. And I still am paranoid that they will. I certainly hope not....
Hopefully you posted up the CQuartz Finest " DO NOT WASH" card. It clearly states whomever damages the paint by improperly washing, wiping, looking , is responsible for fixing it.

We're currently going through a situation that dealer washed a black 996 C4S, mirror hanger was clearly hung, client clearly stated to not wash as he's had paint correction and nano coating installed, and dealer washed anyway. They're being kind enough to take care of his paint correction and coating.

At least the front end of your GT3 will self heal
Old 11-30-2014, 09:12 PM
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Hey Moe can you remind us what you recommend for white cars? If I recall, you recommended against a clear bra due to yellowing and suggested just paint coatings?
Old 11-30-2014, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
I only wish more dealerships would simply invest some time and money in properly training their wash guys. All it takes is for them to find a reputable detailer, 1-day seminar, and some proper towels and mitts. It's like me doing an oil change or brake job on your 911 while you're here for you clear bra installation. In some cases, like me doing an engine overhaul. Sure I could probably pull it off, I'll just watch a few videos on YouTube, but I may have some spare parts from your engine that you probably didn't need All joking aside, cars of this caliber shouldn't be treated and cared for by those inexperienced...but, the change starts with you guys. If enough of you ask for no washing and explain why, hopefully it's a matter of time before someone's ears, hopefully at Porsche Headquarters, hears the huge problem. Until then, you have guys like me telling you bring your brand new, dirty and dusty, 911 to our asylum, and I'll see you in a few days
Dealers will NEVER get it because most car owners don't care or get it. They're just about pushing cars out the door and giving free washes to most guys with 100K plus cars that would have a heart attack with someone quoting them a 1K paint correction and coating.

How many "do not wash" requests do you think dealers get? 1 a day at the most. Most owners think they hit the jackpot with a free dealer wash.

We are definitely talking about a niche group of car guys here that want/expect/maintain flawless vehicles. We are truly a small group like 2-5% of all Porsche owners. Me included!!

It's more of a personality trait (or disorder) ha ha. that ones has to have true detailing or appreciation of it as a hobby.

I used to wash/detail cars for family friends when I was 15 because I loved it and loved cars.

Of course it was a good chance to go for a few drives too!
Old 11-30-2014, 09:48 PM
  #69  
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[QUOTE=MoeMistry;11840837]Hopefully you posted up the CQuartz Finest " DO NOT WASH" card. It clearly states whomever damages the paint by improperly washing, wiping, looking , is responsible for fixing it.

[QUOTE]

I DID post it, it is CLEARLY mounted, but I'm still paranoid....
Old 12-01-2014, 09:02 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Mech33
Hey Moe can you remind us what you recommend for white cars? If I recall, you recommended against a clear bra due to yellowing and suggested just paint coatings?
In the end, all films will slightly yellow, but you can do something about how quickly it yellows and the severity of the yellowing. Now keep in mind, the yellowing I'm talking about is something most would consider "off-white"...it's not the extent of yellowing we previously saw a few years back with films like 3M and Ventureshield. It's also not yellowing like the film currently being used on the stoneguard piece in front of rear wheels on all new 911s.

With that in mind, there are those that simply want the peace of mind knowing they're protecting their vehicles and don't mind the yellowing issue. I can tell you, at the moment, Suntek Topcoated, is the only film I've personally experienced that is the whitest out of the box. When compared with other films, there was a noticeable difference in how white it was. The thing to remember is, there is currently not a single film out there that gives you the best of all worlds. So, talk to your installer and you can come up with a solution as to what film is right for YOU.

The two films we use are XPEL Ultimate and Suntek Topcoated...we're extremely pleased with these two products and they meet our strict and OCD standards.
Old 12-02-2014, 01:24 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
Their data sheet is incorrect...

http://www.xpel.com/products/xpel_ul...ction_film.asp

All films will discolor over time...specially noticeable on white. But, film has come a long way since a few years ago. Gone are the days of cloudy, ,milky, and heavily orange-peeled film.

We don't do partials, so I'm not sure about color difference. I know both xpel and suntek films allows UV to come through making the aging process more "even" with un-filmed areas
Moe - why don't you do partials? Or maybe I don't understand what that means - I interpret this as you only do full wraps

Thanks in advance, trying to decide what to do
Old 12-02-2014, 09:52 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by NYC_AREA_GT3
Moe - why don't you do partials? Or maybe I don't understand what that means - I interpret this as you only do full wraps

Thanks in advance, trying to decide what to do
Allow me to clarify...we do not offer pre-cut kits without extended edges, ones where a computer plots the kit and the film basically comes about 1-2mm short of all the edges of panels on vehicles. leads to dirt getting trapped along the edges over time and it also isn't providing maximum coverage. Over time, if one uses traditional polishes/waxes, the excess builds up along the edges, and eventually you'll be replacing that film. Not great value IMHO.

We also don't do partial panels...half of a hood, half of fenders, small pieces computer cut to only cover front of mirrors, etc. This also isn't providing maximum coverage, and being a detailer, I don't care for the look of it either since you can see the lines of the film.

So, by full installations, I usually mean a full hood, full fenders, full bumpers, full mirrors....where we simply lay down a bulk piece of film, cover the entire panel, and hand-trim to a custom installation where the film is almost undetectable. Majority of the installs we do are full fronts. About 30% of our installs are full vehicle installations where the entire car is protected.

Hope this clarifies
Old 12-02-2014, 02:21 PM
  #73  
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Thumbs up Pre-Prep for clear film installation

Here's the next patient in our asylum. I wanted to focus on just our pre-prep process before we do any clear film installation. This is an advanced installation, so the polishing step is something unique to this level. But everything else is the same, even on our Moderate installation.

Initial Condition - Exactly how we like it. Dealer didn't wash or do anything











Cleaning





All-natural lambs wool mitt, gentle wheat germ soap, and a tender touch





We work in small sections



Rinse the area





Rinse wash mitt



Dry using very plush and high quality mf towels





Begin decontamination process. Wherever you see a purple runoff, that's where embedded contamination exists, and the product is dissolving it safely and effectively





Rinse and dry again



Second decontamination step with clay. As you can see, even on a new car, there's still much left before we can truly consider it "GP clean"







Polishing..in this level, we perfect the paint and free it from any imperfections. As you can, there were a few deep sanding scratches from the factory. Not to worry, the orderlies at the asylum know how to safely eliminate such imperfections









Some polish residue in between seam left from factory



All gone!





Hood and fenders are prepped for clear film



As you can see, a lot goes into our installation, and the prep alone can take hours. The devil is always in the details, and I hope this gives you guys some insight on how we do our OCD installations
Old 12-05-2014, 07:54 AM
  #74  
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Do you apply C.Quartz Finest before applying the film, after, or both?
Old 12-05-2014, 09:18 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by RossL
Do you apply C.Quartz Finest before applying the film, after, or both?
Nice work again Moe!! Wow.


I'll chime in from my knowledge of detailing.

The coating is never applied before the film is installed.

It adds some nice additional benefits/protection by applying it on top of the film after install.


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