Alan C.

The Jackpoint stands are hard to beat. Much easier to get these cars off the ground with the Jackpoints.

kosmo

Yup many guys use the hf jack at the track

Zulu Alpha

I think you guys might appreciate this...

neanicu

They seem good for oil changes and stuff. Unfortunately you have to take wheels off in most cases...

Zulu Alpha

True, overlooked that part. Good catch.

Mike in CA

An FYI to anyone who read the original DIY or printed it out, I've updated a couple of items to reflect some current information and issues encountered by other RL'ers who had minor configuration differences on their cars.

Bartron

Thanks for the writeup Mike.

I'll be doing mine soon. First track day coming up.

Do you know if the Oil Filter Wrench is a Porsche part or a Suncoast part? I would prefer to get my stuff through my local shop if possible.

Thanks to you and Money for walking us through.

Mike in CA

It's a Porsche part. I heard that some Porsche mechanics were using a band type wrench because there was no room to get a ratchet in the end of the Porsche tool, which is true. I had to use a crescent wrench on the head of the tool once it was in place but that worked fine. I didn't try any of the band wrenches I had so it might be worth a test run if you've got one instead of spending the $55 for the Porsche tool.

BTW, it's weird that this version of the DIY showed up as there is also one in the DIY section under GT2/GT3. I won't bore you with the long story of how that caused me trouble when I tried to do edits, but now that you've found this version I've corrected it so that the two versions are now identical.

Bartron

Thanks Mike. Appreciate you keeping this content updated. No easy task.

Is your filter wrench stamped with a part number by chance? Suncoast doesn't specify a part number.

Mike in CA

You're welcome. The actual tool manufacturer is Hazet and it's their model style (I assume) #2169. The Porsche part number stamped on the tool is 000 721 944 30.

Bartron

Awesome. Thanks!

Bartron

Just finished the first oil-change at 1000km. I like to do an early flush of oil.

The DIY was very helpful. Couple things to note:

1. Those plastic pins on the 'skid plate' are tricky and initially it can be hard to see that they have a plastic centre that you push up. You may need to push up them several times before the pin releases.

2. Opening the drain plugs wasn't too bad BUT the oil just shoots out! I even left the cap on to try and decrease the pressure but got covered in dino-juice anyways. Not sure what people have done to deal with that. I've often unscrewed the last few threads by hand. I probably should have done that this time.

3. There is no built-in funnel like on the 997.2. I would strongly suggest you use a funnel unless you've got ninja pouring skills - I realized I do not. The filler neck doesn't exactly take much flow either so be patient.

4. I initially raised one side, then the other onto the jack stands. On the way down I tried lowering the front first, then the rear. I had the lift engaged and had a couple inches to spare before the splitter would touch the ground. I think I preferred the rear end up-first and down-last method.

5. The oil filter required quite a lot of effort to get off and is awkward to get to, even with the oil filter wrench.

6. I have to check the part numbers but my dealer gave me a copper sealing ring that worked and an alloy one that was way too big. So I replaced the copper one on the oil tank and reused the alloy one on the dry sump.

Thanks again Mike and RL

Mike in CA

1. Fortunately I didn't have the plastic pins on my car. I think I'd leave them off once removed as they're a solution to a problem that doesn't exist!

2. Yeah, it does gush out. Hopefully you drained the tank first as it's more accessible and removing the plug those last few turns by hand instead of with a wrench or socket is a must. A broad catch pan helps and it's center needs to be positioned a good 8-10 inches away from the tank opening. Be ready to quickly adjust the pan as needed, especially as the flow tapers off.

3. I guess I must have ninja pouring skills. I do wrap a shop towel around the filler opening just in case I get the jitters.

4. I also lift the rear first and lower it last. Going side to side puts the car at too severe of an angle, IMHO, and makes it harder to slide the jack and jackstand hat (if you have the Jackpoint stands) under the jacking points with the car tipped over.

5. Amen.

6. I think dealers are still working out the details on which are the right parts. It took a couple of conversations with Suncoast to get the correct plugs and washers back when I did my change.

You're welcome, Bartron! Glad everything turned out ok.

Bartron

Oil level on day of oil change was perfect (one below top). Day one after the change was uneventful. Day two I get a warning that oil overfilled but safe to drive on. Weird.

Could the level be just straddling the line? Should I bleed some oil or wait and see?

Anyone use the middle plug that's accessible without removal of the diffuser-plate to bleed off a little oil?

Mike in CA

By "one below top" and "perfect" do you mean at the Max line or one segment below the Max line? As you can see below the manual states that 1 bar below the MAX line is actually "optimum".

If you were at the MAX line, it's very possible you were borderline and a variation due to temperature or ground level could have generated the message. If you were at the recommended one segment below MAX it seems unlikely there would have been that much variation so as to cause the warning.

I'm pretty sure the only plug you can see with the diffuser in place is the rear sump plug and I don't know how you'd get a tool on it without removing the diffuser.

You could get a siphon pump but I've heard mixed results; it may depend on the pump you buy. You could just drive the car as is. Or, if it really bugs you can do this; I've done it and it works. You'll have to remove the diffuser to get to the tank plug again. Very carefully and slowly loosen the tank plug until oil just begins to trickle past the threads, but don't go too far and let the plug come out. It will take a few minutes but measure out 200-400ML and tighten the plug again.


A - Oil level maximum reached
B - Oil level minimum reached
C - Recommended oil level for optimum engine operation
D - Oil level below minimum
E - Oil level above maximum