So what happens to an amateur after no track driving for 5 months?
07-20-2014, 07:47 PM
#46
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks! It's a shame the car lacks track safety options in the US. I have an extra camera that I don't use but have no idea how to edit a video to show both views (front and rear) alternating or at the same time. I need to put the camera on the inside rear window so I can see my hands and figure out what am I doing wrong, for future mistakes.
07-20-2014, 08:03 PM
#47
Drifting
Thread Starter
I found this on ebay. Would anyone consider putting this on their car? OEM plastic is pliable and I have no idea how fiber glass replica would feel or handle being hit. I realize the tow hook hole needs to be drilled out but at $2K for the whole thing, it's half OEM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111413155937&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111413155937&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
07-21-2014, 01:57 AM
#48
Rennlist Member
I have an extra camera that I don't use but have no idea how to edit a video to show both views (front and rear) alternating or at the same time. I need to put the camera on the inside rear window so I can see my hands and figure out what am I doing wrong, for future mistakes.
It happens to everyone. No need to beat yourself up over it. Its only $. But, get some better safety equipment, seat, harnesses, bar, hans. It's a very small price to pay for some extra protection, plus you will drive better anchored in the seat.
07-21-2014, 09:49 AM
#49
Drifting
Thread Starter
Racerender. And yes, that is the most important use of a camera, I have mine on my roll bar. I can see me and my line. Great training tool with data overlay too.
No. Fiberglass won't hold up as well. Can you take a picture of the damaged under bumper where the lip slots in? I've seen these damaged before and they hold the lip FINE (on 997s).
It happens to everyone. No need to beat yourself up over it. Its only $. But, get some better safety equipment, seat, harnesses, bar, hans. It's a very small price to pay for some extra protection, plus you will drive better anchored in the seat.
No. Fiberglass won't hold up as well. Can you take a picture of the damaged under bumper where the lip slots in? I've seen these damaged before and they hold the lip FINE (on 997s).
It happens to everyone. No need to beat yourself up over it. Its only $. But, get some better safety equipment, seat, harnesses, bar, hans. It's a very small price to pay for some extra protection, plus you will drive better anchored in the seat.
07-21-2014, 12:49 PM
#50
Racer
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Very nice video Sam. It's funny but was rooting for you to pass that corvette all video long.
Not a big deal about the spin. Going to happen to everyone eventually who tracks their cars, pro or not
Not a big deal about the spin. Going to happen to everyone eventually who tracks their cars, pro or not
07-21-2014, 01:50 PM
#52
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just an FYI, MSRP for front fender is $6,400 in the US. No-one pays MSRP but still. Splitter a couple of hundred.
07-21-2014, 02:54 PM
#53
That's not good that it still understeers with a soft front bar, and stiff rear bar. Do they offer different size bars I wonder?
What's the RS going to be like with that bigger rear wing?
Personally, I hate understeer. All you can do is back off throttle to control it. I much prefer oversteer. I know Porsche is trying to keep the car safe for the general public, but there should be a way to dial out the understeer available to those who want it. There's a few ways to do it, but the bars are the easiest fix.
It must have been pretty pushy with the stock bar settings huh?
What's the RS going to be like with that bigger rear wing?
Personally, I hate understeer. All you can do is back off throttle to control it. I much prefer oversteer. I know Porsche is trying to keep the car safe for the general public, but there should be a way to dial out the understeer available to those who want it. There's a few ways to do it, but the bars are the easiest fix.
It must have been pretty pushy with the stock bar settings huh?
I guess one can take negative camber off of the rears but the tires will then wear unevenly. Yes, it pushed more when stock. I vividly recall when we made the roll bar adjustment that the car started to excessively oversteer but it was just a misperception that lasted a couple of sessions, until I got used to it. I suspect there is after market material that can help but I'm trying to keep the car as close to stock as possible.
The first time I took out my Carrera S to the track the car understeered as though there was no steering wheel at all. I was so disappointed i thought thats how Porsches drove (first time driving a Porsche on a track), after hearing all this feedback about Porsches understeering. I was so bummed, and though i want to sell this thing. In any case, i checked the tire pressures and turns out they were 30/32 front to rear respectively. I looked at the side of the door sill at the Manufacturer's recommended pressures and saw 30/40, i was astonished! i thought to my self that margin can't be that big. In the end, i did as recommended and the car handled beautifully on track. The car rotated great and was very predictable (car is a keeper).
I don't know that the recommended pressures for a GT3 is but i suspect its not far off a Carrera S. I remember Sam once mentioned that he had his pressures at 30/33. I would only recommend these pressures if you want to be safe on Circuit, because the car will understeer and you know whats going on.
The thing is, setting a soft front/hard rear roll bar is for mid corner stability, and Sam experienced the rear end come out quick because i suspect the low pressures on the rear were at their limit of adhesion. The car will lean on its soft rear tire till there is no more grip then suddenly let go due to a stiff rear bar, kind of like a rubber band snapping. Thats my .02 cents if its worth anything.
07-21-2014, 04:17 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Wonder if the psm since on is the culprit for added understeer. Usually soft front and firm rear it's going to oversteer. I hate understeer myself as well. Mike
07-21-2014, 05:52 PM
#57
Banned
If the above failed or if getting off on the outside would have been unsafe (close wall, etc.), another (much riskier and requiring more skill) option would have been to get back on track as you did BUT while consciously anticipating/expecting the "ricochet" and applying a counter steer immediately as the car got back on track. These "ricochet" offs are usually a "kiss the wall and your car goodbye" events on the East coast. Your track is great to learn these recovery techniques while paying cheap tuition.
I loved the sound. That SW bypass sounds much better with the mic inside.
If the (lighter) Vette had 700hp and Hoosiers, then you are at least two levels better driver than its driver. If you switched cars, you would probably lap him every 10 laps on that small track.
Your level of skill/heat is way beyond the need for proper seats, harness, and hans.
07-21-2014, 07:28 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
I found this on ebay. Would anyone consider putting this on their car? OEM plastic is pliable and I have no idea how fiber glass replica would feel or handle being hit. I realize the tow hook hole needs to be drilled out but at $2K for the whole thing, it's half OEM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en
And it drives nothing like a Civic, feels and handles like a proper 911.
235F 275R..
07-21-2014, 07:32 PM
#60
Drifting
Thread Starter
Glad you are ok. I know it's hard to be rational and calculating in the heat of the moment, but you should have started easing off the throttle the moment you realized that you overcooked it. This would have slowed you down, rotated the rear, and added to front grip. At the same time, should have slowly started to open up the steering wheel (counter-intuitive, yes) and prepare to get it and the car straight (minimal to no lateral g) as you straddled the outside curb (with the two outside wheels off). Even with four off, that would have been a much better/safer side to get off. Then, when sure that lateral g is safe/zero, slowly reel it back on track.
If the above failed or if getting off on the outside would have been unsafe (close wall, etc.), another (much riskier and requiring more skill) option would have been to get back on track as you did BUT while consciously anticipating/expecting the "ricochet" and applying a counter steer immediately as the car got back on track. These "ricochet" offs are usually a "kiss the wall and your car goodbye" events on the East coast. Your track is great to learn these recovery techniques while paying cheap tuition.
I loved the sound. That SW bypass sounds much better with the mic inside.
If the (lighter) Vette had 700hp and Hoosiers, then you are at least two levels better driver than its driver. If you switched cars, you would probably lap him every 10 laps on that small track.
Your level of skill/heat is way beyond the need for proper seats, harness, and hans.
If the above failed or if getting off on the outside would have been unsafe (close wall, etc.), another (much riskier and requiring more skill) option would have been to get back on track as you did BUT while consciously anticipating/expecting the "ricochet" and applying a counter steer immediately as the car got back on track. These "ricochet" offs are usually a "kiss the wall and your car goodbye" events on the East coast. Your track is great to learn these recovery techniques while paying cheap tuition.
I loved the sound. That SW bypass sounds much better with the mic inside.
If the (lighter) Vette had 700hp and Hoosiers, then you are at least two levels better driver than its driver. If you switched cars, you would probably lap him every 10 laps on that small track.
Your level of skill/heat is way beyond the need for proper seats, harness, and hans.