Mike in CA

I've been told to make sure that the locking pin is properly engaged as there have been instances where cars were delivered from the factory without that being done properly. From reading the manual, it appears to me that mine are OK, but being a CL newbie I just thought I'd ask to double check. All 4 wheels look identical to the one in the pic below.

SamFromTX

Having seen mine already (got left and right tires/wheels swapped), I think those look good but don't take my word for it, I'm a newb too. What my mechanic did after he tightened them was to install a threaded device into the center and pulled out, to make sure the teeth are fully engaged, minimizing any chance of failure.

ShakeNBake

Take a picture at an angle, the depth/closeness of the locking pin to the immediate surface of the nut is how you tell (it should be flush). Think of it this way - the center pin has spines that need to engage with splines in the nut, and it needs full depth to adequately provide the strength needed to resist the nut twisting loose loose (and it does....).

Mike in CA

The locking pin is, of course, spring loaded. I can press it in at least 3/4" and when I release it again, there is a very definite click as reaches what appears to be the end of it's travel. It's not exactly flush at that point as you can see from the pic, but it's close, and it sure doesn't seem like it will extend any further.

ShakeNBake

That looks pretty close, mine (997) is about 0.5mm.

0Q991

0.5mm??? Half a millimeter???

ShakeNBake

it's difficult to measure directly, the nut surface tapers away from the center, but yes, on the wheel I just measured with a micrometer it's exactly 0.6mm where the surface of the nut starts and the center pin face. The point is that they should be nearly flush. If it is 3mm+ away, it's not seated correctly. Twisting (not pushing in and out) the center pin CW and CCW will help it seat.

paver

looks good. As you already mentioned you should be able to push the lock pin in and it come back out freely on it's own. That generally tips you off that it's like it should be. My experience is when it's not fully out is right after you have torqued the bolt. That's when it usually take a wiggle to get it to spring out. Keep an eye on them when you're at the track to make sure they are out.

sgroer

These centerlocks scare the crap out of me. I'm just a simple, meat, potatoes and 5 lug kind of guy that likes long walks on the beach.

0Q991

^^+1

Mike in CA

The pushing in and out was just to establish how much movement there was. I twisted as well and the pin definitely seems to have reached the end of it's travel. There is a very positive mechanical stop; it doesn't seem like it's hung up or inhibited in any way. The description in the manual states that the pin "should engage with spring force in the central bolt". That's exactly what it feels like.

I'll be at the dealer tomorrow and will double check with them. Thanks for your help.

Thanks, paver.

mooty

looks flushed, BUT you must torque them OFF the ground

Mike in CA

Thanks, I've read that.

I haven't removed the wheels. I was just checking that the locking pin was in place, because I was told that sometimes they weren't properly seated, even from the factory. I also wanted to familiarize myself with removing the caps and checking the pin for engagement. Doing the other steps will come in time...need the tools for one thing.

mooty

tools:

tq wrench: snap on or precision
breaker bar: DO NOT buy the $$$ oem pos. i had 2, both bent the first time i used it. i am no mr universe. it bents like noodle. but cheap breaker bar. they are better.

Mike in CA

^^Appreciate the tool tips.....