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So you can do CCB rotors for $8500?....Nice...just in case what would PCCB rotor replacements to your CCB rotors be...same price? So awesome to see prices coming way down.
I ordered my RS with steel brakes.. don't know why, regret it now. On my GT2 had zero
problems.
No regret. Shelf those iron rotors and replace then with RB-CCB rotors - Enjoy years of your CCB braking, swap them back when you are ready to sell/trade in the car (brand new brakes), and sell those used CCB rotors on eBay to recoup good part of what you paid for CCB rotors which is still a very attractive offer compare to brake new ccb from Porsche dealers.
Originally Posted by JAJ, post: 209724, member: 3022
Having lived with mine now for 18 months or so and done two seasons of track days and even a little commuting, there are three things I really like about my CCB's, and if you're wondering why I'd get the rear ones if they were available, it's all about 2. and 3. below:1. The lighter front axles really do handle better.2. The rotors don't wear (or crack) at all and your brake pads just seem to last and last and last and last...3. Dust? What dust? I don't see any dust... I've had lots of BBK setups in the past (Stoptech, AP Racing, Brembo Racing and various parts bin setups), and just swapping the rotors on my GT350 has been the easiest and most user friendly upgrade I've ever done.
More and more enthusiasts have realized CCB actual costs less to run over the time than conventional iron brake in addition to providing superior & bullet proof* performance.
I always spec PCCBs, as it's a must have, but if I had not, I would consider going go this route ^^^^^
I did the "direct bolt on" Kit using the stock calipers - FYI for review below
Good morning everyone.
Well we finished off the install of the CC Rotors and brake set last night. I wanted to take a second and do a review / my take on it all. If you get the direct bolt on kit – the process was as easy as changing brakes out just being more careful not to chip something. I have a basically stock car and this was the “only” mod we changed at this time. I am totally surprised. I was expecting great results but this was very noticeable. I will break it down the best I can. The car drives / feels completely different in a good way. It does everything “better” and easier. The GTR has always pretty much done EVERYTHING you ask it to do, but now it doesn’t “bitch back” at you or the effort is so much less. Acceleration, deceleration, turn in, turn out – everything just feels more “nimble” and quick. It is so different I will have to actually adjust how to drive the car. The steering is so much “lighter” and quicker. I would explain it like this… if you had a very good teenage kid… that “did” everything you told them to do… yes .. they get the job done but they would complain, bitch, whine whatever… but they always completed what you did… as you asked them to. That is how the GTR is…. After the brakes it is like you are paying your best friend … who loves you dearly and wouldn’t need to pay.. .but since you are paying them they are even happier to do stuff for you… The car just “does” everything asap … and no kick back…
So – to the rest of it.
Is the car “faster” Well for sure Acc and decal in the first few gears YES - There is no question about that. How much – would be very difficult to tell. I truly feel there is a trade off with the GTR between weight and grip but I could be wrong. It is an adjustment for sure. I do not think I “lost” any true grip but it is easier to spin wheels straight acc and in corners. Are you going to shave a “ton” of time off a time attack. I would say ton… NO… but it will help and it helps with the feel of the car so it will help there. ¼ times – as you fix your grip and Launch – it will drop time there for sure and will drop braking distances as well. Feel of the brakes and petal are perfect. It is better in every way so far. I will admit – I feel if I was a full road coarse car – I might stick with steel for the price and maybe even better “super hot” braking but for most street and light track cars this is a great way to go and all arrows are up. On the street – The car is so much more responsive / fun to drive / “quick” Everything just happens quicker. So I have heard many many things about rotating weight and I have done rotating weight tests and drops before. This is by far the most “extreme” difference I have had or felt. I have heard every pound of rotating weight is like dropping 2 to 7 pounds of static weight off of a car. This for SURE feels at the higher end of this. It truly feels like you dropped 10 to 20 % of the cars total weight. That is how the car feels. Then the last – “age old question” is it worth it. The cost is HIGH -- $11,000 + by the time you are done if you get a direct bolt on kit. To me it was worth it, but I will tell you my thoughts on why.
#1 - Less to no dust = saves me time and car looks better
#2 – The way the car feels and the driving experience is just amazing. Hard to explain but I am so happy with it. Brake feel, corners, turn in, how the car adjusts, acel, decel
#3 – It is “faster” more than likely on every aspect BUT I do not think this is why you would do it, but it is a nice bonus. There are more cost effective ways to get your car “faster”
#4 – they last longer – if you are going to go the distance with the GTR it is worth having
#5 – You can sell them when you are done. This is a two hour job for a “novice” mechanic… so when you are done with them… or you sell your GTR I feel they would still be worth $3,000 - $5,000
#6 – It is a great mod that does NOT void Nissan warrantee
#7 – never worry about brake noise again
#8 – they look nice behind the wheels – just wonderful
So should someone buy them? Well I am very happy I did – well worth it especially if you need brakes anyways and you are keeping the car longer term. Would I buy them over “other mods” for the money. Yes and no…. I feel we can go FBO … for about the same money so.. I am assuming that is a better mod for the money… if you could only pick $11,000 to spend.. .but if you can afford both… I see no reason not to do these brakes along with other mods unless you are a full time attack – track machine.
For how long would PCCB rotors last if a car is used for track days?
My steel rotors were typically dead after 4-5 full track days. Typically the vibration was the reason to change for a new set of the rotors.
I have two sets: OEM steel brakes and OEM PCCB. I upgraded my steel set for PCCB with the idea to use PCCB fir street and stell for track days. But I begin to think that maybe I use PCCB for track days also given that:
2) if the PCCB rotors can last at least 25 full track days. “Full track days” is where you push the car really hard all day long with 250 miles per every track day.
I am tired of constant vibrations with steel rotors after track days. That is the reason I have an idea for PCCB for track days.
Depends on the track and driver but what has been said and posted here is around 30-40 full all day long use track days.
Originally Posted by kart driver
A question to “track rats”.
For how long would PCCB rotors last if a car is used for track days?
My steel rotors were typically dead after 4-5 full track days. Typically the vibration was the reason to change for a new set of the rotors.
I have two sets: OEM steel brakes and OEM PCCB. I upgraded my steel set for PCCB with the idea to use PCCB fir street and stell for track days. But I begin to think that maybe I use PCCB for track days also given that:
2) if the PCCB rotors can last at least 25 full track days. “Full track days” is where you push the car really hard all day long with 250 miles per every track day.
I am tired of constant vibrations with steel rotors after track days. That is the reason I have an idea for PCCB for track days.
For how long would PCCB rotors last if a car is used for track days?
My steel rotors were typically dead after 4-5 full track days. Typically the vibration was the reason to change for a new set of the rotors.
I have two sets: OEM steel brakes and OEM PCCB. I upgraded my steel set for PCCB with the idea to use PCCB fir street and stell for track days. But I begin to think that maybe I use PCCB for track days also given that:
2) if the PCCB rotors can last at least 25 full track days. “Full track days” is where you push the car really hard all day long with 250 miles per every track day.
I am tired of constant vibrations with steel rotors after track days. That is the reason I have an idea for PCCB for track days.
thanks in advance for sharing your experience!
If you're wearing out a set of steel rotors in 4-5 days and getting vibration you're probably overheating the rotors. You might want to pass on PCCBs which deteriorate very quickly if overheated. The RB system mentioned should hold up better then PCCBs.
If you're wearing out a set of steel rotors in 4-5 days and getting vibration you're probably overheating the rotors. You might want to pass on PCCBs which deteriorate very quickly if overheated. The RB system mentioned should hold up better then PCCBs.
Yes, the vibration on steel rotors is caused by overheating in my case. Regardless of the fact that I do cool down laps.
P.S. RB or any other non-OEM option is no go for me.
Yes, the vibration on steel rotors is caused by overheating in my case. Regardless of the fact that I do cool down laps.
P.S. RB or any other non-OEM option is no go for me.
Why are any aftermarket rotors a no go for you? If you are tracking like you are these aftermarket rotors will last longer. I used Girodisc on my 2017 with no issues they last double what OEM lasted.
For how long would PCCB rotors last if a car is used for track days?
My steel rotors were typically dead after 4-5 full track days. Typically the vibration was the reason to change for a new set of the rotors.
I have two sets: OEM steel brakes and OEM PCCB. I upgraded my steel set for PCCB with the idea to use PCCB fir street and stell for track days. But I begin to think that maybe I use PCCB for track days also given that:
2) if the PCCB rotors can last at least 25 full track days. “Full track days” is where you push the car really hard all day long with 250 miles per every track day.
I am tired of constant vibrations with steel rotors after track days. That is the reason I have an idea for PCCB for track days.
thanks in advance for sharing your experience!
Your OEM iron rotors are likely fine. I’ve never heard of someone actually warping a set of OEM discs to failure. You probably just have pad deposits which cause the vibration. Are you running OEM pads with your OEM iron rotors, and driving them hard on track? If so, I recommend switching to a higher temp pad like the Ferodo DS3.12. That fixed a pad deposit issue for me as well on OEM discs.
Your OEM iron rotors are likely fine. I’ve never heard of someone actually warping a set of OEM discs to failure. You probably just have pad deposits which cause the vibration. Are you running OEM pads with your OEM iron rotors, and driving them hard on track? If so, I recommend switching to a higher temp pad like the Ferodo DS3.12. That fixed a pad deposit issue for me as well on OEM discs.
4-5 track days is insane to wear out the rotors. Are they cracked as well or just don't feel right? I usually burn through my stock rotors then change to either Brembo 2 piece slotted or AP Rotors. combine these with RE 10s and its a great combo.
04-21-2019, 03:03 AM
