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The dreaded centerlocks

Old 04-02-2013, 10:00 PM
  #16  
blake
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Mike - I must have been hit by the stupid stick, so apologize in advance for the questions...

What is wrong with torquing the wheels while on the ground? (That is what we all do with the old 5-lugs....)

Thanks,
-B
Old 04-03-2013, 01:34 AM
  #17  
ShakeNBake
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Technically you're not supposed to torque any wheel while it's on the ground because there is a lateral load or moment on the hub and wheel - but practically its not an issue for most of us. For the CL they are trying to remove all external loads that can interfere with the mating of the wheel to hub.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:51 AM
  #18  
mdrums
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Great explanation Shake...thanks.

Everyone...just follow the center lock procedure in the owners manual to the letter.
Old 04-03-2013, 12:40 PM
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sand8
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I am guessing with center lock, the twisting force (if the wheel on the ground) will cause the specific torque value not being applied correctly. Different with 5 lugs, since the studs holding the wheel from turning - no twisting force on the stud.
Old 10-19-2015, 12:28 AM
  #20  
inactiveuser7516
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Default Centerlock Removal/Installation .pdf

If anyone has the well put together .pdf which lists the step by step process (with pictures) for the removal and installation of center locks for a 997.2 GTS, could you e-mail it to me. I've invested in the necessary tools and want to get a set of wheels/tires for DE's.
Old 10-19-2015, 09:27 AM
  #21  
Nizer
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Originally Posted by 911rox
Indications from Porsche are that the new units are different, improved and stronger. One would hope that whilst 3 years too late, having now identified (though never explicitly admitting) the shortcomings of the 997.2 system, the issues have been thoroughly addressed to avoid the embarrassment of viral videos on youtube of P cars doing NBR on three wheels. Time will confirm...

As mentioned above, you will require a vvvvvveryyy long breaker bar and a 3/4" torque wrench to do them up. Porsche only supply the socket for the CL bolts with the car. You'll also need an understanding someone to stomp on the brake pedal unless you go the brake depressor pathway... Many threads about these.

The procedure of the existing system is complicated and we don't know the new system yet but if its anything like the original you'll want to be 1000% clear on it correct use and allow only those with experience and full understanding of the system to touch it. I would not let a local tyre store or local mechanic anywhere near it unless they have been trained. A local race shop only if they are familiar and you are confident in their abilities... Two people touch my CLs, me and the motorsport team at my local dealer. Nobody else! They take being **** to a whole new level...
Agree with 991rox comments with one edit (in bold). New 991 CL's are more robust than 997 CL's, though no less a PITA or complicated than prior gen.

Originally Posted by Orco
If anyone has the well put together .pdf which lists the step by step process (with pictures) for the removal and installation of center locks for a 997.2 GTS, could you e-mail it to me. I've invested in the necessary tools and want to get a set of wheels/tires for DE's.
PDF attached for 997 CL locking nut recall. It provides a good overview of issues that impacted the 997 CL's.

Beyond that, following proper torque and grease procedure are critical and seem to be where most folks run into issues.
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Central wheel lock[1].pdf (1.04 MB, 189 views)
Old 10-19-2015, 12:10 PM
  #22  
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As everyone said, this topic is very popular on the forum. If you are moderately mechanically inclined you will be able to do it. Do your homework on this because it could mean your safety. Just a few simple things you should know.

- Buy the Castrol anti seize grease from Suncoast. A little goes a long way. DO NOT overdue it with grease. - Buy a hand clamp/Spreader from Home depot or Lowes at least 24 inch. You can put your E-brake on, but this is needed to depress the brake pedal. Reverse the clamp and make it fit between the seat and the pedal.
- Never have pressure on the wheel when removing or putting it on. Wheel must be elevated.
- Once Torqued to 444 Ft/lbs, loosen 1/4 turn and retorque
- Make sure safety spring loaded center is flush with splines.
- IMO a breaker is unnecessary. I bought a decent 100-600 Ft/lbs 3/4 drive torque wrench. It works great.
- Don't buy socket, it now comes with the 991GT3 and it's located under plastic shroud in the front of the car.
Old 10-19-2015, 01:05 PM
  #23  
Mech33
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Does someone have the greasing procedures for the CL, both for the 1st level greasing as well as the disassembly greasing? I saw this on here at one point, but I've searched and searched and can't find it.
Old 10-19-2015, 02:46 PM
  #24  
alpine-al
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Originally Posted by Mech33
Does someone have the greasing procedures for the CL, both for the 1st level greasing as well as the disassembly greasing? I saw this on here at one point, but I've searched and searched and can't find it.



Old 10-19-2015, 09:01 PM
  #25  
Shivatron
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A few months ago, someone asked this question on Reddit (/r/porsche). I've reproduced my response for posterity:

Wheel change procedure:
• Procure massive breaker bar and torque wrench.
• Read manual. Realize that you don't have any grease for reinstalling the CL nut.
• Call dealer parts counter and ask if they have any Optimol to sell you. They don't.
• Wait a week. Obtain Optimol.
• Take screwdriver to CL dust cap. Bend thin aluminum cover of dust cap trying to pry it off. Realize dust cap set is $300 at the dealer; resolve to be more careful.
• Jack up car. Apply breaker bar to wheel. Wheel spins freely.
• Find girlfriend. Ask her to sit in driver's seat and depress brake pedal.
• Remove CL nut while girlfriend engages brakes. Remove and replace wheel.
• Apply thin coat of Optimol to seating surface of CL nut with finger. Accidentally touch nut face with greasy finger.
• Spend 5 minutes trying to remove Optimol from finger.
• Reinstall wheel and nut. Accidentally brush nut with pant leg.
• Spend 10 minutes trying to remove Optimol from pant leg. Not successful.
• Find girlfriend again. Have her depress brake pedal.
• Begin to tighten CL with giant torque wrench. Realize that wheel is rotating. Tell girlfriend to press brake pedal harder. With no power assist left, realize she cannot press hard enough to stop the wheel from rotating.
• Find Porsche key to start engine and restore power brakes.
• Get Optimol on car key.
• Spend 5 minutes removing Optimol from car key.
• Find now-annoyed girlfriend again. Start car while in the air. Have girlfriend depress brake pedal.
• Torque to 440 lb-ft.
• Back nut off 1/4 turn. Bang driver's side mirror with handle of torque wrench.
• Retorque to 440 lb-ft.
• Lower car. Thank girlfriend.
• Reinstall dust cap.
• Realize that you didn't check CL locking spline engagement. Remove dust cap again. Again manage to bend cover.
• Engage locking splines. Reinstall dust cap.
• Spend 5 minutes removing Optimol from dust cap.
• Go on Rennlist and ask about how you can swap your CL hubs for 5-lug.
Old 10-19-2015, 09:07 PM
  #26  
DMoore
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Shivatron:

Classic! When I have my tires changed at independent tire shop, I stand there manual in hand and walk them through it. No g/f, no Optimol on MY hands and clothes!

Disclosure: I've been through all of this before with my 997.2 GTS. I made a point of getting 5 bolt wheels on my next 911 -- but here I am again with CL's. Aargh.

DMoore
'15 GT3
'13 Panamera GTS
Old 10-19-2015, 09:11 PM
  #27  
tasman
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LMAO. One of the funniest things I've read in a while.
Old 10-19-2015, 10:14 PM
  #28  
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:08 PM
  #29  
inactiveuser7516
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That is hysterical! I experienced some of that very same thing.
After thoroughly reading all the Rennlist posts, I knew in advance the tools that I would need. Still bent the center cap. Tracked down the Snap-On driver and purchased the no mar tiny pry tool (the same one Rennline sells) and the throttle/brake pedal depressor that hooks to the steering wheel. Best $40 ever spent. No Irwin spreader clamp anchored to my seat. Tried to remove the center cap again with my Snap-On tiny no mar pry tool. Continued to bend it. At least I'm bending the same one each time. The rears pop off fine. Left front required some effort but got it off with no damage. The right front was folded twice. I go on line to price new ones. Are you kidding me!
Old 10-19-2015, 11:31 PM
  #30  
Nizer
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Ah, the price of progress.....


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