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Precision Instrument Breaker Bar Adaptor A10C4D600F
Form the other center lock thread, someone mentioned an adaptor A10C4D600F that will allow one to utilize the bar section of the PI 3/4" torque wrench to extend the PI breaker bar. I always feel the PI breaker bar is a bit too short to break loose the center lock nut sometimes, so I decided to order one to try it out.
Yesterday I received the adaptor and thought I would share some pictures:
The total length with the adaptor and breaker bar fully extended is now 63" !
For $37 +shipping I paid, this will make it much easier to break loose these pesky center lock nuts.
Yes, I've been using it for a couple months and does make it easier to break loose a bolt (but be careful not to hit side mirror or anything else - 63" is long
Being that far from the engagement of the socket on the center lock, given the approx. 3/8 inch of tooth depth, would make me nervous without someone holding it in place. It is pretty easy, when applying that much force, to twist it minutely.
Being that far from the engagement of the socket on the center lock, given the approx. 3/8 inch of tooth depth, would make me nervous without someone holding it in place. It is pretty easy, when applying that much force, to twist it minutely.
I think it’s pretty much impossible to hold the socket with the regular breaker bar anyway...
Fortunately, the socket is really machined to close tolerances and holds on to the bolt well. It’s also worth placing the Porsche socket tool on the ratchet correctly, so the locking pin goes into the hole in the Porsche socket (only 1 in 4 chance, unless you pay attention). Then use a punch to depress pin through the hole to remove from ratchet.
Yes. I ordered all of that. Now I have a RennTorq coming any day. So looks like this will all end up on a shelf. Too lazy to deal with returning everything.
Yes. I ordered all of that. Now I have a RennTorq coming any day. So looks like this will all end up on a shelf. Too lazy to deal with returning everything.
Someone on this board will take it off your hands...
Yes. I ordered all of that. Now I have a RennTorq coming any day. So looks like this will all end up on a shelf. Too lazy to deal with returning everything.
If you have the extension piece the OP mentioned I might be interested.
Agreed. How do I know. 2 months ago, the day before I’m leaving for an HPDE.
I took a mirror right off the car.
Longer handle with the adaptor should give more control when loosening the stubborn nuts.
On the other hand, it might be easier for the Porsche center lock tool to fall off the nut and hit the wheel spokes if you dont pull in the correct direction....
*Precision Instruments C4D600F is missing an adapter to connect the break bar to the extension tube. This means the tool is "shorter" with the breaker bar than with the torque wrench. This adapter solves that.
As far as taking off the mirror - Wouldn't the approach to be to start the breaker bar at 9 o'clock and push down. Then ratchet back up to 9 o'clock, push down again. No chance of pulling up to hit the mirror.
Now here's my question - how does one avoid having to have someone hold the steering wheel? When I used this without this extension (I'm going to order it now for sure!), I had to pretty much stand on the breaker bar and even then it broke only slowly. I read that hint from someone else who weighed a lot less than I do. But my son and I did this and while breaking it didn't seem to require holding the steering wheel (well, it didn't move much), it seemed that torquing it would and it definitely wanted to move. I would like to know how people avoid that - this is with the wheels in the air on torquing.
Does the Renntorq somehow magically avoid the requirement of a 2nd person on breaking or torquing? If so, how or I should ask, why does that work? I know its a multiplier but I'm trying to get the physics here. Same thing for the Hytorq tool which claims that it also doesn't require a 2nd person. Not that I'm going to pay $5K for a tool like this.
From the Renntorq website: The RENNtorq tool requires only moderate pressure be applied to the brake pedal inside the car, meaning the car does NOT need to be running, and you do not require the assistance of a second person to either press the brake hard or hold the steering wheel steady.
Sounds like you will need a (truck) pedal depressor... The Lisle 21520 is an example.