daveo4porsche

can someone speak to assessing wear? how does one determine "it's time"? Is the _ONLY_ resurfacing option sending them to the UK - I hate to sound paranoid but single source for a $13k part that can go out of business leaving me with $13k paper weights is not my idea of a good time.

tqevo

Can you quantify the stopping distance shortening vs iron brakes? How about lap time improvement vs iron brakes?

FourT6and2

I dunno. The guy said he uses Girodisk or something. I assume because you're tracking the car in the meantime. I also assume that people removing the OEM rotors and storing them are doing so because they don't want to "ruin" them. So why would you put them back on the car and track 'em while you wait for the ST to be returned? Or, if you burn through the OEM rotors and then purchase ST rotors as replacements, then you don't have a spare set handy. Therefore you need to buy another set of rotors to use in the interim.

If all you're doing is street driving in the interim, then fine... put the OEM PCCBs back on, if you still have them.

prl

Color looks like it is a hard clear anodize on 6061.. hard to tell, they may be darker which be a 7075 aluminum.... they could hard anodize in black if they wanted doesn’t cost any more $$ I like the gold color.

GrantG

You are missing one piece of the puzzle. If you have stock iron brakes, then their diameter is 380mm and the ST rotors (or PCCB) are larger (410 and 390mm front and rear). So the red calipers require adding a spacer from the hub to work with the larger rotors. If you then want to return to the original 380mm rotors, you have to remove the spacers (may or may not be much trouble, depending on the use of Loctite and whether you have aftermarket studs). So, I mentioned using Girodisc because they come in the larger (PCCB and ST) sizes to be used with the yellow calipers or red calipers with the spacers installed.

FourT6and2

And if you have PCCB, you either have to put them back on (if you took them off and stored them) and then track with those. Or if you used PCCB until you needed replacements, and then went with ST, now you have no spare set of rotors and need to purchase another set to use while the ST get refurbished. Or you just leave the car in the shop, which was my original question lol: do shops typically charge storage fees if the car sits there waiting for parts?

CMS

Hello guys -

Measure remaining life similar to steel rotors, e.g. remaining thickness. They should be refinished before remaining thickness reaches 33.5mm for the fronts and 30mm for the rears.

Anything is possible. If you are willing to purchase contingent on us getting them changed to black we will get started on the process of finding an anodizing shop to change the color. I personally like the color as is on my lizard green RS with gold wheels. But if people are ready to buy (contingent on if the hats are black) we will listen to the market and work on that option. Since we manufacture a number of our own products we have a few sources we can lean on for the color changes.

The dimensions are 410x36mm and 400x32mm. You use spacers to move the calipers out on cars originally equipped with 380mm steel brakes front and rear and on the rear for cars originally equipped with PCCBs

I'm not aware of any other companies that resurface carbon ceramic rotors, so if Surface Transforms goes out of business then you currently don't have another option for refinishing the rotors (as far as I know).

CMS

As with any brake components there isn't a exact number that works for everyone and all situations. The guidelines we have been given from Surface Transforms is the rotors should hold up for 4,000-5,000 track miles between refinishing. They have test mules with more then 13,000 track miles that are still going, Of course it depends on your brake use/driving skill, amount of traction and stability control system use, the tracks driven, and the pads used.

GrantG

Totally depends on the shop and/or your relationship with them.

Atgani

This can only go two ways :
First, you miss out on a fantastic product because of your concerns over the manufacturer's ability to remain in business, or second, you address those concerns.
How would you do that ? Well you could always give Christian Koenigsegg a ring and see what he thinks of the product and the company that produces the rotors for his cars (and has done for the last ten + years) or you could listen to your fellow Rennlisters who've run them on their track cars.

Or you could do some research on an internet. FWiW, I'm just an early adopter back in 2007 ... (actually I was THE first Porsche adopter when I fitted them to my 996 GT2 back then)

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...8&t=436594&i=0

In those days even ST weren't aware of just how hard and durable their product was, or at least they weren't until a Koenigsegg test driver wore a set of pads out (down to the steel backplates) AND kept on driving the car. When Koenigsegg removed the "scrap" rotors, they intended chucking them in the dumpster, but ST requested them back to inspect and assess the damage wrought by the pad backplates.
Once they received them back, they inspected them and decided they'd re-machine the faces. Having done so they were sent back to Koenigsegg and they continued to use them.

As for the "problem" about what to do when the rotors do go for refurbishment ... plenty of you won't need them refurbished as they'll far outlast your track outings, and as others have said, those that do need to have them refurbished will either have to live without the car for a few weeks (talk about first world problems) or bolt your OE steel/PCCB rotors back on for those few weeks.

Agent_Orange

Bad cowboys wear black hats

prl

the problem with re-anodizing is you will have to strip the clear anodize off... to get the color the hats are it’s a clear hard coat, to get that off your pretty much asking for Hell/destroying the integrity.

Send me the hat I’ll just scan it and machine some batch’s and anodize them black for u.

malmasri

I can not.
All I can say is that I can dive much deeper into breaking zones before I break and still manage to turn in without much struggle.
l catch people and take late passes in these areas quite often , never had a scary moment.
As far as lap times comparison to steel....no idea because that is what I have been using the last 2.5 years , So I don’t have a reference for you.
I know that I was slower 2 years ago, but that is not all related to the rotors swap

Atgani

Just had these made for my 996 GT3, the guys that manufactured them supply McLaren (road and F1) Moto GP, F1, WRC etc, no black here (just 50 shades of grey...)



Cooling unaffected by greyish colour anodising btw

jp884

I second that, could you PM a price on these? Thanks.