Are you happy with your replacement battery in your GT3?
 

It's time for me to replace mine. There are a lot of vendors ads on here, but I'd love to hear some opinions:

1) What battery did you choose and was it a no brainer install?
2) If you switched to lithium ion, did you do the "re-program" yourself to tell the GT3 that you are using a lithium ion now?

I'm leaning towards lightweight lithium ion but am not near a dealer so I'd need to be able to program the car myself. Not sure it it requires special tools or not.

It's going into the 2016 RS

I'm happy and satisfied with the support, technology and dependability of my Group 48 24Ah Antigravity 9 lbs or so battery. For a daily driver, I would go with their 40Ah.

I have had the 2 flavors of Porsche OEM Lithium, and 4 Lithium batteries from 4 brands I won't name. From all these 6 batteries, only 1 is alive, the others died or burned.

There is a $35 Antigravity Bluetooth add-on that I use all the time. My iPhone app (works with Google too) connects to the battery and provides me actual charge level, no more guessing. This battery has been in my car for 5 months now, and only 2 times I used their Battery conditioner, not knowing the state of the charge level (pre-bluetooth thingy). I can check the battery status from my tow vehicle or from my office.
Installation took 5 minutes, easier to install than the stock heavy battery.



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b050a7aeb9.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9d9a2c3618.png

Does the car crank any faster on cold starts with the Li battery?

I moved a Braille i48 battery forward from my last car into my .1 GT3. Nothing's been re-programmed and everything works just fine. The Braille works with the existing clamp system. I do put a Lithium maintainer on it when I know it's going to sit for more then 2 weeks.

Why 40Ah for a daily driver? You only need to hold a charge a few days so shouldn't you need less Ah if you use the car more frequently?

I've read somewhere that people are getting 3 weeks on the 24Ah, thoughts?

A/S did you do the "re-program" to tell the GT3 you went to lithium ion? If so did you do it yourself or dealer?

Thanks.

Running 40AH antigravity - 30lbs lighter than stock. Love it, no problems. I didn’t get smaller battery because I want to know it will crank after sitting a few weeks. Less cheeseburgers, more battery.

For the 991 there is no reprogramming necessary, just plug and play exchange. Not sure for the 997 so.

+1 Anti Gravity, apart from the PROs mentioned. Can't go wrong with their reputable and responsive business ethics.

Is the Anti Gravity 40Ah holding longer than the stock battery in case the car sits unused for a few weeks ? The bluetooth app seems cool.

The 40Ah is only 3.5 lbs heavier than the 24Ah, but it gives an extra 66% reserve. I have had my 24Ah and the car not running for 11 days, and the charge was at 80% (lowest I have ever seen in my own car). So, it won't surprise me that the 24Ah could last 3 weeks before shutting down, but that would give the 40Ah another 2 weeks before it shuts down. In case of shutdown, they have a built-in jump starter feature, you click a button on the remote (I have my remote in the glove box), or the battery itself and there is enough power to restart the car.

A nice drive of 15 minutes, brings the battery charge up close to 100%.

Any car that stays unused for long periods of time should be on a battery maintainer.

The reserve capacity on the stock Lead-Acid battery is 70Ah. So, the stock nearly 50 lbs battery has more reserve capacity than a 40Ah. A healthy 40Ah battery can't outlast a healthy 70Ah battery.
I didn't reprogram any of my cars running Lithium batteries. I have been running these types of batteries for 13 years now. Some cars have more parasite loads than others, my 991 Turbo S consumes a lot of battery power when not being used, I had to remove a lithium battery and install a brick Optima Yellow Top with 72Ah, and I drive this car more often than all my other cars.


If you have Laser/Radar detectors, dash cams, ODB2 loggers, VBox hard-wired and anything that feeds from a live electrical connection even with the car locked, then it is better to reprogram the car for Lithium battery, and make sure all of these devices feed from a (+) line that is not powered with the car off and locked.

Thanks for the info. Did you ever have to use the jump-start remote. Is that reliable ? This is a pretty nice feature.

In general.. you want the higher Amp Hour models for Daily Drivers because often Daily drivers have more accessories... Cameras, anti-theft devices, up-graded stereos, more potential for roadside emergencies where you are driving longer distances and need those lights to stay on at night. This may not hold true for many people, but that is why we recommend that. Sometimes I'm in my regular car, and I'm in a fast food parking lot eating lunch and listening to Music while having my laptop plugged in and working on it and the car is off. Those are the times I'm not even phased by having the 40ah battery in there... I can do that for hours... with the 24Ah, I would be wary after a two hours of that. Also you are correct, if you are starting and driving more your battery DOES stay charged at a higher level more often. So honestly it is what applications will work best for you and what you desire in weight loss.... and to some degree the expense of the battery.

Most the people going with the 24Ah models are really into their cars and monitor them and want the lightest thing possible. Often I'm telling people don't go with the 24Ah because I want the SLAM DUNK of knowing the Customer won't ever have a low battery, nor will they be having to charge the battery rarely, and if they do choose to drive in Snow and Freezing that battery will not sweat it. The 24Ah is in my eyes for people who are willing to commit to watching the Battery, who do not have aftermarket accessories that draw current, who aren't in close to freezing weather, and who are mostly just gear heads who understand they are getting less capacity but will keep an eye on the battery during longer storage periods. I usually say go with 30Ah or 40Ah to people who want to put it in and forget about it.

Now I can absolutely vouch that the 991s (stock and without aftermarket accessories) using our Lithium Battery can sit for a darn long time. For example, unfortunately (blasphemy), I don't drive my Car much (2016 GT3RS), but I have a 24Ah in it.... and I can say I'm right now at 12.99v per my Battery Tracker, it has been sitting there since May 01 undriven and not on a charger at all... thats 6 weeks... but at 12.99 that is actually too low of voltatge and should be charged. But I don't care because I know it will still easily start at 12.99, and secondly I'm going to drive it this weekend. So that is a full 6 weeks... on 24Ah. So that is impressive to me.... and I did let it over discharge a bit since it should be at 13.2v to be at resting voltage. Its the longest I have not driven it with the 24Ah in it. Keep in mind something like a Turbo, or non GT3 model may have a faster parasitic draw.

But with that being said... and not trying to up-sell.... I wouldn't go with a 24Ah in my car unless I know and want to watch for the batteries condition. 24Ah is fairly low Amp Hours.., its made for Track people and people who really understand the lower capacity. Yes it appears to be doing great, but there are many variable in the Parasitic draw of certain cars. The GT3 is a bare minimum, but on a trip I would prefer to have extra Amp Hours in case of a Road side emergency or other things. Other manufacturers and models of cars have a much faster parasitic draw.

Scott, did you have to reprogram your RS to tell it that you are using a Lithium Ion Battery??? I'm getting very mixed information from very reputable Porsche shops (not dealers) that programming is needed.

Ive been running one for a few months, no reprogramming, no problems.