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Is there anything I need to know on the install to avoid a code being thrown? I don't want to go see the dealer.
Disconnect the negative terminal first, then positive. Put in new battery, connect positive and then negative, reset windows ... Is that it?
Chad answered above that it is ready to go... and that is CORRECT...But I wanted to expand on that.....
The reason being is that when you do change a battery in a Porsche at times you will get a flag.... this is because you have DISCONNECTED the battery to put in your NEW Battery. So in effect the Car "thinks" that the voltage went LOW , then on the next start-up after the battery change you might get a flag. I have changed the battery about 80 times in the RS... but rarely get the flags... Its about 90% of the time there is no flag, and when it does come it will show a power steering warning, or rear wheel steering warning. This is NORMAL, and happens with Lead/Acid Batteries also. It is NOT a Lithium Battery issues, its the car sensing a low-voltage condition from the battery change-out. But from my experience there is not really a rhyme or reason to when I get the flag, because I have changed many low-voltage batteries and got no flag on the change-out. My theory is when I leave the A/C on when I re-start the car that I get the flag....
So the fix is...IF you do get the steering flag...
1-Just starting the car and running it for a minute or two, or let it warm up... then turn-off the ignition, remove the key and walk away for a few minutes so the car re-sets, then start the car again and the flags should be gone. The Car just needed to see that there was a battery supplying voltage again. We call this cycling the key... meaning you're just starting the car allowing it to run a minute so it see it has correct voltage, then when you turn it off and take out the key the next attempt is completely new and the car knows it has rgood voltage so all flags should go away.
2- The other option is just drive the car a little and then sometimes it just goes away after it understands there is now regular voltage again. This is sort of the same as above but sometimes they just go away while driving, but if not just pull in a parking lot turn off car, pull out key and then put key in and start again... flags should be gone.
So the bottom line is sometimes you might get that initial flag about steering... don't worry that is a low-voltage flag triggered since the steering runs of electricity so it wants to see the stable voltage again. Just cycle the key and it will go away.... but most of you won't even see that as I have learned.
Last edited by Antigravity; 07-09-2019 at 03:32 PM.
Battery arrived today and is installed in my 991.2 GT3. No CEL. Super easy install.
More detailed list of instructions. Didn't bother with pictures.
Turn off car, remove key, pop the hood and remove cover.
Open air pump compartment, remove lid and pump.
Unscrew the three screws holding in the black plastic compartment. Then lift up the plastic and remove the entire compartment. It's held in with some metal clips on the battery tray but it just slides up and off.
Unbolt the battery strap, it's a black strip of metal held in place with two bolts. The first was behind the pump compartment you just removed. The other is against the firewall. You will need a deep socket to get these off. I didn't have one so spent most of my time getting the firewall nut off.
Remove the battery clamp on the driver's side of the battery. One bolt is all that needs to be removed.
Unbolt and remove the negative/black terminal. Then do the same for the positive/red terminal. I stuck the plastic caps on each as I was working to avoid any accidental arcs.
Remove the old battery. Use two hands it's heavy AF. Install the new battery, use one hand it's light AF.
Seat it towards the passenger side of the car, align and bolt in the clamp. Place the strap back on it. Bolt down. Install pump compartment, screw back in, put the pump back in and close the lid.
Attach the red terminal and bolt down. Attach the black terminal and bolt down. Car should power up.
Turn on the ignition and car should fire up with no CEL
Put cover back on, close hood, go drive.
Reset your auto windows. All the way down, then all up and hold for 10s, all the way down again and hold for 10s.
I have NEVER programmed to the Lithium option in PIWIS.
I have been testing all our Automotive Sized batteries in the RS... I wanted actual and real long term data to make sure no flags were being thrown, and that no issues were occuring with the battery itself, and to make sure no issues with the Car occured. I have tested our RS-30 which was a prior version of the battery, and 3 of the different Amp Hours versions of the latest generation of the batteries with the Wire-less Jump-Start feature. I have not had any flags at all nor any issues with just dropping in the batteries and going. I have had a few rather long drives in terms of long trips in miles, but mostly I do some 2 to 3 hour drives in the mountain roads directly behind me. I usually drive about 1 to 2 times a months sometime not for 6 weeks. So not a lot of driving, but those down times give me the actual data that is more desired by me.... like how do the batteries do in longer term draw-downs to measure the parasitic drains and storage abilities, but also allow me to do a lot of heavy draw-down testing where I have the car in the garage and connect 2 or 4 of the 55 watt automobile lights directly to the battery so I can do a very fast draw down of the batteries energy while in the car and repeatedly test the RE-START feature on the Car/Battery. While driving I am monitoring all the data on our Battery Tracker, and the standard charging profile in the car is in the range of high 13v to 14.8 max. So that is all perfectly fine.
But I will also say when and why it might be best to change to the lithium setting.
1- First I want to say that our Lithium Battery can accept any charging profile that comes with any modern car. Nowadays all the modern cars have Intelligent Battery Sensors (IBS) on the Battery clamps on your Car. Its that plastic box on the Cables clamps. It measures voltage going to and from the battery and tells the ECU what is going on so the Car can either raise lower the Alternators output. So nowadays you can select which charging profile that works best if you have an AGM, FLA, or Lithium Battery in the car. In a Porsche its done in the PIWIS. Not all cars have the "lithium" setting at this point in time, but the Porsches do.... Anyway our battery can use any of them because they all stay within the range of what our battery can handle... which is any charging up to 15v... And cars are basically standardized to go up to a max of 14.8v on the highest end. So with that being said you don't have to change the profile of the charging in the PIWIS in general.
2- When you DO want to change to LITHIUM in PIWIS is if you are Racing or Tracking the Car... the reason is because when you do the Lithium selection in PIWIS it lowers the charge profile in the car to 13.8v, which theorhetically is a little less charge rate than the mid 14v range of the stock setting. And the reason for this is because when tracking or racing you are going to be having sustained HIGH RPMs spinning that motor and alternator very fast.... so in this circumstance, it would be best to lower the output of the alternator to 13.8v because the motor is spinning so fast most the time no need to keep the higher charge rate going all the time, which can cause a bit of drag on the motor, and also make for longer periods of a higher charge rate.
Again a long ramble, but just want to put it all out there. No real need to change the profile unless you are really Tracking... you certainly won't be achieving the high RPMS in some spirited driving that you would while seriously tracking your car. So I say street driven don't worry about making the change.
But last I will say making the change won't harm anything either. It just lowers the overall charge rate... which will still keep the battery perfectly charged.
Originally Posted by Antigravity
13.8 is completely adequate and shouldn't cause any issues..is it constantly there or what are you seeing in fluctuation?
Just installed 30Ah version. OEM battery always sat at 14.2v while driving. Dash reading shows 13.7v with Antigravity. I did not change setting in PIWIS. But I might. I do track, but only a handful of days each season. But I drive the car hard on the street and it lives at high RPM...
Also threw a CEL upon first startup. P2407: Tank LEakage diagnostic module pump current draw fluctuates." Dealer cleared it. Hasn't come back on, but it's only been one day.
Last edited by FourT6and2; 08-09-2022 at 10:02 PM.
It's been over 3 years since I posted on this thread and the Braille 48 I bought in 2016 for the GT4 is still going strong in the GT3, in fact I don't even bother with a maintainer anymore as it went over 5 weeks without one and started fine.
I like the AntiGravity product but "if it aint broke . . . . "
How long should the lithium AntiGravity 40Ah be good for?
And in comparison anyone have an idea what the stock OEM AGM battery should be good for?
Trying to think about replacement costs, pros cons and benefits personally as I've had 3 991s all on the OEM AGM battery and I could let the car sit for 3+ weeks with no issues, and I've never used a battery tender. So I'm wondering if I'm trying to solve a non-existent problem switching over to a lithium battery. I do like the weight savings option as there is no realistic way I will drop 30 pounds from 175 short of a health scare...
How long should the lithium AntiGravity 40Ah be good for?
And in comparison anyone have an idea what the stock OEM AGM battery should be good for?
Trying to think about replacement costs, pros cons and benefits personally as I've had 3 991s all on the OEM AGM battery and I could let the car sit for 3+ weeks with no issues, and I've never used a battery tender. So I'm wondering if I'm trying to solve a non-existent problem switching over to a lithium battery. I do like the weight savings option as there is no realistic way I will drop 30 pounds from 175 short of a health scare...
I have contemplated the same. My 2014 GT3 with an October 2013 dated OEM Battery has always been on a CTEK charger and remains strong to this day which is quite impressive. I actually like Li batteties (impressive technology) but since I do not track my car, I've decided I will be replacing mine with an OEM battery.
I have also read that Porsche currently uses a handful of 3rd party Battery manufacturers but does anyone know who was the Battery manufacturer at the onset of the 991.1 GT3's? Was Bosch the manufacturer?
How long should the lithium AntiGravity 40Ah be good for?
And in comparison anyone have an idea what the stock OEM AGM battery should be good for?
Trying to think about replacement costs, pros cons and benefits personally as I've had 3 991s all on the OEM AGM battery and I could let the car sit for 3+ weeks with no issues, and I've never used a battery tender. So I'm wondering if I'm trying to solve a non-existent problem switching over to a lithium battery. I do like the weight savings option as there is no realistic way I will drop 30 pounds from 175 short of a health scare...
How long should the lithium AntiGravity 40Ah be good for?
The Antigravity Battery should be good for about 8-10 years... of course some could say how do you know, since your Auto Batteries have only been out about 6 years since the first ones. Well the facts are we have 8- 10 year old Powersports Batteries still doing well and the Automotive batteries are actually a large cell pack, that is much more advanced than the original Powersports Batteries we made starting in 2010. But just as important is the fact that Lifepo4 Lithium, (Lithium Iron Phosphate) offers about 3000-5000 cycles when tested in Labs, and Lead/Acid offers from 750 to 1000 cycles in a higher quality Lead/Acid Battery. So looking at it from that persprective you can safely conservatively assume you will get about 2 to 3 times more life in general out of Lithium. Now if we look at variables such as if you deeply over-discharge your Lead/Acid Battery you will find it will be damaged by the deep over-discharge. That is absolute fact, but the level of damage is not really knowable for any given battery but you an expect a dramatic reduction in the remaining cycles, the ability to hold a charge a long time and the output current. Lithium would actually do the exact same thing if overdischarged, meaning it woud also be damaged, but (quality) Litium Batteries have a on-board full protection circuit board called a BMS which prevents the battery from over-discharge, over-charge, over voltage, over current to keep the battery from getting damaged. So that actually greatly adds to the lifespan potential of a Lithium Battery since the Customer really can't over discharge the Lithium Battery. Keep in mind if you did not drive or recharge the Lithium battery after it went into its protection mode that YES you could actually damage a Lithium Battery too, but if you let it get to that point that is not a battery issue, that is just a lack of maintenance... you should at minimum monitor your batteries if not driveing for several months to make sure they are kept in decent shape.... meaning lead or lithium.
Trying to think about replacement costs, pros cons and benefits personally
If your main focus is cost then for sure the Lithium is a con in that regard for the inital years of ownership since the cost is front loaded, it recoups the overall cost due to a few factors such as longer life if your comapring Price to Price. But as you look deeper, and IF you desire certain things like performance related stuff then the Lithium can be a much better value... but that is a personal thing for the Customer to decide. The points that create a better value for most are the lightweight, if you need that. This is awesome for the more perfomance minded being that NOTHING can shave 30 lbs off a car faster than the battery, and it simple to install unlike a header system that save about 15 lbs. plus you now get a battery that won't leave you stranded. So the value on weight reduction is insane, but some may not care about lightweight. For me personally I think the Wireless built in Jump Starting is the slam dunk simply because you don't have to worry about gettng stranded by an accidental dead battery, or just opening your frunk after the battery went dead. So that hassle factor of jump starting a Porsche or getting into the frunk is a hassle for some that I have seen on this forum. I had a 2016 RS and never experianced having to use this exept during some of my intentional testing of our RE-START feature, but it worked and it was very cool. I have used the RE-START feature in my other Vehicles though. We have two SUVs and go camping, weve drained them a few times over the last few years and just press the keyfob, start them and drive off.
As far as a few weeks of the Lithium Battery sitting.... I've had a 40Ah sit for 7 weeks in my (now sold) 2016 GT3RS, and the voltage went down only .1, to 13.1v (resting voltage is 13.2v) in those 7 weeks... So it started right up. This is a completely Stock 2016 and the doors were closed but not locked and it didn't bat and eye to start up again. But if you have accessories on your vehilce that create a parasitic drain that can lessen the storage time by quite a bit. So for a stock GT3 it will sit about 2 months with a 40Ah.... that is as tested in my Car so that is a fact. If you say I"m a dink for not driving a RS for so long..... why yes that is correct but I do alot of other stuff and it just wasn't something I could do with the family so much... so that is my excuse. I also sold it for the same reason, I was ashamed to have it sitting in the garage rarely being driven.
Bottom line is Lithium has it own set of features that can make it a very nice value for those who care about those features, but if you are just needing the basics a quality Lead/Acid Battery is also a fine option if you don't need those extra features.
Any other questions from anybody and we will answer them.
Last edited by Antigravity; 08-24-2022 at 06:47 PM.
How long should the lithium AntiGravity 40Ah be good for?
The Antigravity Battery should be good for about 8-10 years... of course some could say how do you know, since your Auto Batteries have only been out about 6 years since the first ones. Well the facts are we have 8- 10 year old Powersports Batteries still doing well and the Automotive batteries are actually a large cell pack, that is much more advanced than the original Powersports Batteries we made starting in 2010. But just as important is the fact that Lifepo4 Lithium, (Lithium Iron Phosphate) offers about 3000-5000 cycles when tested in Labs, and Lead/Acid offers from 750 to 1000 cycles in a higher quality Lead/Acid Battery. So looking at it from that persprective you can safely conservatively assume you will get about 2 to 3 times more life in general out of Lithium. Now if we look at variables such as if you deeply over-discharge your Lead/Acid Battery you will find it will be damaged by the deep over-discharge. That is absolute fact, but the level of damage is not really knowable for any given battery but you an expect a dramatic reduction in the remaining cycles, the ability to hold a charge a long time and the output current. Lithium would actually do the exact same thing if overdischarged, meaning it woud also be damaged, but (quality) Litium Batteries have a on-board full protection circuit board called a BMS which prevents the battery from over-discharge, over-charge, over voltage, over current to keep the battery from getting damaged. So that actually greatly adds to the lifespan potential of a Lithium Battery since the Customer really can't over discharge the Lithium Battery. Keep in mind if you did not drive or recharge the Lithium battery after it went into its protection mode that YES you could actually damage a Lithium Battery too, but if you let it get to that point that is not a battery issue, that is just a lack of maintenance... you should at minimum monitor your batteries if not driveing for several months to make sure they are kept in decent shape.... meaning lead or lithium.
Trying to think about replacement costs, pros cons and benefits personally
If your main focus is cost then for sure the Lithium is a con in that regard for the inital years of ownership since the cost is front loaded, it recoups the overall cost due to a few factors such as longer life if your comapring Price to Price. But as you look deeper, and IF you desire certain things like performance related stuff then the Lithium can be a much better value... but that is a personal thing for the Customer to decide. The points that create a better value for most are the lightweight, if you need that. This is awesome for the more perfomance minded being that NOTHING can shave 30 lbs off a car faster than the battery, and it simple to install unlike a header system that save about 15 lbs. plus you now get a battery that won't leave you stranded. So the value on weight reduction is insane, but some may not care about lightweight. For me personally I think the Wireless built in Jump Starting is the slam dunk simply because you don't have to worry about gettng stranded by an accidental dead battery, or just opening your frunk after the battery went dead. So that hassle factor of jump starting a Porsche or getting into the frunk is a hassle for some that I have seen on this forum. I had a 2016 RS and never experianced having to use this exept during some of my intentional testing of our RE-START feature, but it worked and it was very cool. I have used the RE-START feature in my other Vehicles though. We have two SUVs and go camping, weve drained them a few times over the last few years and just press the keyfob, start them and drive off.
As far as a few weeks of the Lithium Battery sitting.... I've had a 40Ah sit for 7 weeks in my (now sold) 2016 GT3RS, and the voltage went down only .1, to 13.1v (resting voltage is 13.2v) in those 7 weeks... So it started right up. This is a completely Stock 2016 and the doors were closed but not locked and it didn't bat and eye to start up again. But if you have accessories on your vehilce that create a parasitic drain that can lessen the storage time by quite a bit. So for a stock GT3 it will sit about 2 months with a 40Ah.... that is as tested in my Car so that is a fact. If you say I"m a dink for not driving a RS for so long..... why yes that is correct but I do alot of other stuff and it just wasn't something I could do with the family so much... so that is my excuse. I also sold it for the same reason, I was ashamed to have it sitting in the garage rarely being driven.
Bottom line is Lithium has it own set of features that can make it a very nice value for those who care about those features, but if you are just needing the basics a quality Lead/Acid Battery is also a fine option if you don't need those extra features.
Any other questions from anybody and we will answer them.
Hi Scott, I just sent you an email with tons of questions from France
07-05-2019, 10:11 PM
