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Old 06-18-2019, 10:17 PM
  #16  
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Can anyone else comment on need for programming if you plan to add dash cams/radar?

I plan to do integrated radar/laser, and front/rear dash cams and I’m wondering if this will necessitate reprogramming if I get an antigravity battery.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Antigravity View Post
In general.. you want the higher Amp Hour models for Daily Drivers because often Daily drivers have more accessories.
Thanks Scott - this was my thinking as well. My use case is more as a track focused car with weekend duties and not a DD. It will be driven at least every 2 weeks so that is more than enough to last on a 24Ah.

Now, just need you to get some back in stock
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:52 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by daedton View Post
Scott, did you have to reprogram your RS to tell it that you are using a Lithium Ion Battery??? I'm getting very mixed information from very reputable Porsche shops (not dealers) that programming is needed.
Hi All,

I have NEVER programmed to the Lithium option in PIWIS.

I have been testing all our Automotive Sized batteries in the RS... I wanted actual and real long term data to make sure no flags were being thrown, and that no issues were occuring with the battery itself, and to make sure no issues with the Car occured. I have tested our RS-30 which was a prior version of the battery, and 3 of the different Amp Hours versions of the latest generation of the batteries with the Wire-less Jump-Start feature. I have not had any flags at all nor any issues with just dropping in the batteries and going. I have had a few rather long drives in terms of long trips in miles, but mostly I do some 2 to 3 hour drives in the mountain roads directly behind me. I usually drive about 1 to 2 times a months sometime not for 6 weeks. So not a lot of driving, but those down times give me the actual data that is more desired by me.... like how do the batteries do in longer term draw-downs to measure the parasitic drains and storage abilities, but also allow me to do a lot of heavy draw-down testing where I have the car in the garage and connect 2 or 4 of the 55 watt automobile lights directly to the battery so I can do a very fast draw down of the batteries energy while in the car and repeatedly test the RE-START feature on the Car/Battery. While driving I am monitoring all the data on our Battery Tracker, and the standard charging profile in the car is in the range of high 13v to 14.8 max. So that is all perfectly fine.

But I will also say when and why it might be best to change to the lithium setting.

1- First I want to say that our Lithium Battery can accept any charging profile that comes with any modern car. Nowadays all the modern cars have Intelligent Battery Sensors (IBS) on the Battery clamps on your Car. Its that plastic box on the Cables clamps. It measures voltage going to and from the battery and tells the ECU what is going on so the Car can either raise lower the Alternators output. So nowadays you can select which charging profile that works best if you have an AGM, FLA, or Lithium Battery in the car. In a Porsche its done in the PIWIS. Not all cars have the "lithium" setting at this point in time, but the Porsches do.... Anyway our battery can use any of them because they all stay within the range of what our battery can handle... which is any charging up to 15v... And cars are basically standardized to go up to a max of 14.8v on the highest end. So with that being said you don't have to change the profile of the charging in the PIWIS in general.

2- When you DO want to change to LITHIUM in PIWIS is if you are Racing or Tracking the Car... the reason is because when you do the Lithium selection in PIWIS it lowers the charge profile in the car to 13.8v, which theorhetically is a little less charge rate than the mid 14v range of the stock setting. And the reason for this is because when tracking or racing you are going to be having sustained HIGH RPMs spinning that motor and alternator very fast.... so in this circumstance, it would be best to lower the output of the alternator to 13.8v because the motor is spinning so fast most the time no need to keep the higher charge rate going all the time, which can cause a bit of drag on the motor, and also make for longer periods of a higher charge rate.

Again a long ramble, but just want to put it all out there. No real need to change the profile unless you are really Tracking... you certainly won't be achieving the high RPMS in some spirited driving that you would while seriously tracking your car. So I say street driven don't worry about making the change.

But last I will say making the change won't harm anything either. It just lowers the overall charge rate... which will still keep the battery perfectly charged.
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:24 PM
  #19  
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So I have a dumb question. You sponsor this site but your own website shows zero results for a GT3 (Search for “Porsche GT3”). I also did the make, year, search and there is no post 2016 GT3 and selecting the 2016 also shows zero results. What’s up with that?
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Old 06-19-2019, 06:56 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Antigravity View Post
Hi All,

I have NEVER programmed to the Lithium option in PIWIS.

I have been testing all our Automotive Sized batteries in the RS... I wanted actual and real long term data to make sure no flags were being thrown, and that no issues were occuring with the battery itself, and to make sure no issues with the Car occured. I have tested our RS-30 which was a prior version of the battery, and 3 of the different Amp Hours versions of the latest generation of the batteries with the Wire-less Jump-Start feature. I have not had any flags at all nor any issues with just dropping in the batteries and going. I have had a few rather long drives in terms of long trips in miles, but mostly I do some 2 to 3 hour drives in the mountain roads directly behind me. I usually drive about 1 to 2 times a months sometime not for 6 weeks. So not a lot of driving, but those down times give me the actual data that is more desired by me.... like how do the batteries do in longer term draw-downs to measure the parasitic drains and storage abilities, but also allow me to do a lot of heavy draw-down testing where I have the car in the garage and connect 2 or 4 of the 55 watt automobile lights directly to the battery so I can do a very fast draw down of the batteries energy while in the car and repeatedly test the RE-START feature on the Car/Battery. While driving I am monitoring all the data on our Battery Tracker, and the standard charging profile in the car is in the range of high 13v to 14.8 max. So that is all perfectly fine.

But I will also say when and why it might be best to change to the lithium setting.

1- First I want to say that our Lithium Battery can accept any charging profile that comes with any modern car. Nowadays all the modern cars have Intelligent Battery Sensors (IBS) on the Battery clamps on your Car. Its that plastic box on the Cables clamps. It measures voltage going to and from the battery and tells the ECU what is going on so the Car can either raise lower the Alternators output. So nowadays you can select which charging profile that works best if you have an AGM, FLA, or Lithium Battery in the car. In a Porsche its done in the PIWIS. Not all cars have the "lithium" setting at this point in time, but the Porsches do.... Anyway our battery can use any of them because they all stay within the range of what our battery can handle... which is any charging up to 15v... And cars are basically standardized to go up to a max of 14.8v on the highest end. So with that being said you don't have to change the profile of the charging in the PIWIS in general.

2- When you DO want to change to LITHIUM in PIWIS is if you are Racing or Tracking the Car... the reason is because when you do the Lithium selection in PIWIS it lowers the charge profile in the car to 13.8v, which theorhetically is a little less charge rate than the mid 14v range of the stock setting. And the reason for this is because when tracking or racing you are going to be having sustained HIGH RPMs spinning that motor and alternator very fast.... so in this circumstance, it would be best to lower the output of the alternator to 13.8v because the motor is spinning so fast most the time no need to keep the higher charge rate going all the time, which can cause a bit of drag on the motor, and also make for longer periods of a higher charge rate.

Again a long ramble, but just want to put it all out there. No real need to change the profile unless you are really Tracking... you certainly won't be achieving the high RPMS in some spirited driving that you would while seriously tracking your car. So I say street driven don't worry about making the change.

But last I will say making the change won't harm anything either. It just lowers the overall charge rate... which will still keep the battery perfectly charged.
I am UK based and would like to order the battery you suggest with the bluetooth add-on and any other required bits for my .2 3RS. There will also be an aftermarket stereo, but nothing crazy.

thank you
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tpup View Post
So I have a dumb question. You sponsor this site but your own website shows zero results for a GT3 (Search for “Porsche GT3”). I also did the make, year, search and there is no post 2016 GT3 and selecting the 2016 also shows zero results. What’s up with that?
You want them to fix the "Battery Finder" part of the site (pic below)? If you have a 991.X GT3 you want this product.


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Old 06-19-2019, 07:25 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Tpup View Post
So I have a dumb question. You sponsor this site but your own website shows zero results for a GT3 (Search for “Porsche GT3”). I also did the make, year, search and there is no post 2016 GT3 and selecting the 2016 also shows zero results. What’s up with that?
Not a dumb questions at all! Truth be told the "Battery Finder" wasn't originally populated with automotive applications so it's being currently updated to include the automotive segment, but as you can tell it's far from complete and ongoing...So in that regard you are always welcome to reach out to us directly, modern 911's are going to accept our H6 and H7 formats so either will work for your application.

Always feel free to reach out to us directly with any other questions you might have.
-Chad
[email protected]
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Old 06-20-2019, 05:22 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Antigravity View Post
Not a dumb questions at all! Truth be told the "Battery Finder" wasn't originally populated with automotive applications so it's being currently updated to include the automotive segment, but as you can tell it's far from complete and ongoing...So in that regard you are always welcome to reach out to us directly, modern 911's are going to accept our H6 and H7 formats so either will work for your application.

Always feel free to reach out to us directly with any other questions you might have.
-Chad
[email protected]
I emailed you Chad about an order for my UK .2 3RS
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:21 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BrntRubber View Post
I emailed you Chad about an order for my UK .2 3RS
Got it! Reply sent!
Thank you!
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Old 06-20-2019, 01:54 PM
  #25  
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Voltphreaks is being installed in about two weeks. Shop just needs to fab a simple aluminum bracket and should be good to go.
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:20 PM
  #26  
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Thanks all!
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Old 06-21-2019, 12:58 AM
  #27  
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I’ve been running one and noticed my volts automatically dropped from 14.6v to 13.8 when I installed the Anti Gravity battery on my 19’ RS
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Old 06-26-2019, 01:22 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rs6033 View Post
I’ve been running one and noticed my volts automatically dropped from 14.6v to 13.8 when I installed the Anti Gravity battery on my 19’ RS
13.8 is completely adequate and shouldn't cause any issues..is it constantly there or what are you seeing in fluctuation?
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:12 PM
  #29  
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When do you expect to have the 40 battery in stock for a GT3?
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:12 PM
  #30  
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I finally got my 24Ah go really low, it was at 14% yesterday. I left an ODB2 bluetooth device that connects to a data logger intentionally there to get the battery low. Car started fine, but at the first turn I got a RWS error. A 5 min drive brought the charge to 20%. I drove another 15 minutes and the charge went up to 40% (still low). Plugging it later to the Antigravity battery maintainer. It took 8 days to discharge to this level with the MXLink ODB2 transmitter. With the ODB2 device, it has lasted weeks.

Awesome long lasting reserve. My Porsche OEM Lithium would have died with the same ODB2 device in less than a week (because it already did).
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