FogCitySF

In a similar vein to the recent thread on the .1 GT3RS vs .2 GT3, if one were to strictly extract maximum performance on the track, is a .1 GT3 that can be modded (excluding power mods) to surpass the performance and track feel of a .1 GT3 RS with minimal mods, a better overall value including long term resale after extended track use/ownership. Right now the .1 GT3s are running $40k-50k below the .1 GT3RS which leaves a lot of room for various performance improvements, but the RS has the advantage of having wider track/wheels and of course superior aero right out of the box. What would be the go-to mods’ approximate cost, assuming Cup type suspensions, damper/DSC remaps, wider wheels (limited of course by .1GT3 bodywork), canards, wing, anything else other than power to reach performance parity? Considering the pros and cons of each choice prior to purchase. Thx in advance.

Edit: want the car to be street legal (no trailering).

Izzone

If u are buying just for track

Get a 997 cup with KMP

No reason to beat up street car

FogCitySF

Thx. Want to keep it street legal. Should have mentioned in thread.

vantage

Tires are going to be the most important thing rather than power. That is why a GT4 Clubsport can lap certain tracks faster than a 918 Spyder. From that perspective, assuming you don't run into any RWS issues, a .1 GT3 + $40k of mods (much less $4-5k) is probably going to be faster than a stock .1 RS.

Whether you are considering resale in your determination of value or not may change things. Mod money is pretty much down the drain at time of resale.

robmypro

.1 GT3. No question. 10 yr or 120k mile engine warranty for the win.

FogCitySF

Thx. Is it possible to get more rubber on the .1 GT3 and widening the track (lower offset) despite not having the flared fenders? The .1 GT3RS has advantage of extra half inch of rim.

Captain Scurry

Maybe not the answer you are looking for.
Mods are not going to make you significantly faster, just a lot poorer.
Driver is usually the major variable.
You need:
car you can easily afford...
so that you can use $$$ for
1. LOTS of track time
2.Professional coaching
3.consumables

Cay_PI

So true... my experience (even on fast tracks): all 991 GT3 are more capable than a minor/medium experienced driver. If you are in a group of drivers with similar experience and mixed through the palette of .1GT3, RS and .2 GT3. You will notice some are a bit faster than others but no correlation to the cars. If the material is a factor, than the tires. I run pilot sport 4S (.1 GT3) and I'm usually as fast as RS/.2 with same experienced drivers on fast tracks. On slower tracks with tight corners this is only possible for certain laps because the tires become to hot then.

Jrtaylor9

Agree driver is the biggest driver of who is faster in any group of 991 GT's. Also, it's not apples and oranges to look at a 991.1-3+mod costs vs a 991.1-3rs purchase price. If you smashed both into a wall and totaled them and/or you literally kept the car forever, it would be a valid calculation. All other scenarios, the costs of mods you make at best keep the value of the car you own flat vs stock, but usually make it worth less come time to sell. The extra dough you roll into an RS stays there, market fluctuations adjusted (but you have mkt movement/depreciation on both). Biggest difference on running costs is if you buy track insurance. But 130k+40k mods 991.1gt3 is not the same money as 170k 991.1-3rs.

C2Spin

1. Coaching
2. Simulator training
3. Tires
4. Brakes

It took me too long to realize the value and benefit of good coaching and simulator training. For me it very helpful. Then selecting the proper tires and brake set up. Everything else to me was just slightly incremental. YMMV.

Good luck.

tstafford

The above comments are definitely correct.

But to answer your question - for my money I think the .1 GT3 w/ cash to spare on is the better option. The majority of my "mod" money would go in to safety - harness bar, proper seats, six point harness.

Not that you asked: but for your purpose I'd avoid PCCB in either version.

disden

Absolutely agree with what others are saying. Its all down to seat time and then more seat time with coaching. Either car is insanely capable right out of the factory. Don't mess with it until you are truly extracting the most of out the car. On my cars I really only change a few things in effort to keep it still street legal and not to mess with the warranty...upgrade brake fluid, upgrade brake pads, add half cage and harnesses. That's it. If you start getting too fancy you will spend insane amounts of money for negligible gains. Keep it simple, the biggest variable that can be improved is the driver.

rsierra

RS, all you need are off road tubular exhaust manifolds, a harness bar and harnesses, and a track alignment. 95% of the RS cars came with light weight buckets as well.

FogCitySF

Totally agree and plan on continuing to do what you suggested (coaching from race pros, etc). I’m an advanced driver, track two vehicles (BMW and Shelby) and I’m generally able to take advantage of performance modifications/enhancements.

69911s

I agree with the overall suggestions here. Made safety improvements first, seat, bar and harnesses. Drove the car until I knew what it wanted. Tires first, spare wheels. AiM Solo DL and SmartyCam. The PCCBs became the obvious Achilles heel quickly so I added the AP braking setup. Through all of this I had other instructors ride with me every time I went to the track to help me sort whether the changes were me or the car. Now it is just tweaking things like adding caster pucks to run larger front tires and solid joints to improve turn in response. Maybe next year we add coil overs and DSC.

The one thing no one has mentioned that made a noticeable difference early is that a better driving experience can be realized by getting a proper alignment. The car came alive for me after TPC worked their magic and for example, I could put power down much earlier after setting the car up for this.

I always tell my students not to make changes until they can demonstrate why they need them and I try to do that myself. And try to change only one thing at a time or you may have trouble telling which changes are contributing the most.