Is the 991.2 RS worth 60K over 991.1 RS???
03-03-2019, 10:49 AM
#31
Platinum Dealership
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.2RS is .2RS
New is new
But Either car:
Uses same tires
Used same cost clear bra/ windshield
Uses same cost of fuel
Uses same oil change/
Uses centerlock hubs schedule of maintenance
Same cost to ship around
Same running costs. If you spent the difference on running costs just doing track days you would have a lot of fun! We can call that the Pete/ TRAKCAR constant ratio.
Take you want and subtract cost of car you have
C2-C1= Price D
Divide Price D by consumable fixed ratio
Consumable fixed ratio = 4 tire changes, 1 annual service, 1 brake pad change, 2 oil changes, 1 brake duct plastic, and one chin spoiler consumable rubber piece. CR1
( If you are confused by CR1, then you are only here for machines and caffeine and you should buy the new car because it is shinier. Don't sell anything, buy two! )
D/ CR1 - If D exceeds 3/1 ratio...then you will have more fun by beating on your current car, C1.
C2-C1= D
D/ CR1 = x
If x > 3, keep current car
If x < 3, buy new car
*if you have 2016 on its first set / original tires this does not apply
New is new
But Either car:
Uses same tires
Used same cost clear bra/ windshield
Uses same cost of fuel
Uses same oil change/
Uses centerlock hubs schedule of maintenance
Same cost to ship around
Same running costs. If you spent the difference on running costs just doing track days you would have a lot of fun! We can call that the Pete/ TRAKCAR constant ratio.
Take you want and subtract cost of car you have
C2-C1= Price D
Divide Price D by consumable fixed ratio
Consumable fixed ratio = 4 tire changes, 1 annual service, 1 brake pad change, 2 oil changes, 1 brake duct plastic, and one chin spoiler consumable rubber piece. CR1
( If you are confused by CR1, then you are only here for machines and caffeine and you should buy the new car because it is shinier. Don't sell anything, buy two! )
D/ CR1 - If D exceeds 3/1 ratio...then you will have more fun by beating on your current car, C1.
C2-C1= D
D/ CR1 = x
If x > 3, keep current car
If x < 3, buy new car
*if you have 2016 on its first set / original tires this does not apply
03-03-2019, 11:01 AM
#32
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
.2RS is .2RS
New is new
But Either car:
Uses same tires
Used same cost clear bra/ windshield
Uses same cost of fuel
Uses same oil change/
Uses centerlock hubs schedule of maintenance
Same cost to ship around
Same running costs. If you spent the difference on running costs just doing track days you would have a lot of fun! We can call that the Pete/ TRAKCAR constant ratio.
Take you want and subtract cost of car you have
C2-C1= Price D
Divide Price D by consumable fixed ratio
Consumable fixed ratio = 4 tire changes, 1 annual service, 1 brake pad change, 2 oil changes, 1 brake duct plastic, and one chin spoiler consumable rubber piece. CR1
( If you are confused by CR1, then you are only here for machines and caffeine and you should buy the new car because it is shinier. Don't sell anything, buy two! )
D/ CR1 - If D exceeds 3/1 ratio...then you will have more fun by beating on your current car, C1.
C2-C1= D
D/ CR1 = x
If x > 3, keep current car
If x < 3, buy new car
*if you have 2016 on its first set / original tires this does not apply
New is new
But Either car:
Uses same tires
Used same cost clear bra/ windshield
Uses same cost of fuel
Uses same oil change/
Uses centerlock hubs schedule of maintenance
Same cost to ship around
Same running costs. If you spent the difference on running costs just doing track days you would have a lot of fun! We can call that the Pete/ TRAKCAR constant ratio.
Take you want and subtract cost of car you have
C2-C1= Price D
Divide Price D by consumable fixed ratio
Consumable fixed ratio = 4 tire changes, 1 annual service, 1 brake pad change, 2 oil changes, 1 brake duct plastic, and one chin spoiler consumable rubber piece. CR1
( If you are confused by CR1, then you are only here for machines and caffeine and you should buy the new car because it is shinier. Don't sell anything, buy two! )
D/ CR1 - If D exceeds 3/1 ratio...then you will have more fun by beating on your current car, C1.
C2-C1= D
D/ CR1 = x
If x > 3, keep current car
If x < 3, buy new car
*if you have 2016 on its first set / original tires this does not apply
lets introduce want W
and income S
and divorce risk tolerance factor Sigma
we need a statiscal pull of RL to regress the relationship of these three variable and use it as a multiplier to ur equation to factor in reality.
03-03-2019, 11:07 AM
#33
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Buy .1
Use the $63k to buy
- Camaro ZL1-1LE and track it and chase all the GT3s you want (or get the SS-1LE and add a S2000 track car)
- Cayman S or GTS with a 6cyl engine and manual transmission
- Mustang Shelby 350 with Track Pack
At Cars and Coffee, both .1 and .2 will get the same attention. Search for a thread comparing both, and your decision will be easier to make.
Use the $63k to buy
- Camaro ZL1-1LE and track it and chase all the GT3s you want (or get the SS-1LE and add a S2000 track car)
- Cayman S or GTS with a 6cyl engine and manual transmission
- Mustang Shelby 350 with Track Pack
At Cars and Coffee, both .1 and .2 will get the same attention. Search for a thread comparing both, and your decision will be easier to make.
at CNC. a LaF orbsenna might get u a second look
damn u beat me
im 204 msrp
03-03-2019, 11:37 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
Mine also $204K I think Moody accidentally copied mine when he sent in the order.
He figures another no option but this time I went nuts and just ordered all option < $1000 on top of the brochure car, and even A free CXX option so I have something to talk about when I take purple to C&C hahaha.
http://cc.porsche.com/icc_euro/ccCal...bcode=PK1A9XZ2
But even if D exceeds 3/1 on CR1 then there is the expired warranty...
I’ve done the math and my car has close to 200 hours. There’s only so much you can expect from a car.
No luck on the Porsche Platinum warranty extension.
At a minimum that needs to be added to CR1.
Its done me good and so I’m taking it back to stock and make it my Cars and Coffee car, weekend cruiser.
Anyone buying the .2RS for the “better” engine is wasting money if you use mine as a reference.
- Didn’t break it in. Hammer down @200 miles
- Used 200cc oil initially. Stopped using oil around 15,000 miles.
- Faillures; a cooling line at 22,000 miles, thermostat at 34,000 miles.
I did give it all the required preventive maintenance I could think of...
So besides the math and project COO, basically if you don’t track it more than 20 days a year the .1RS is the better deal @$1500 a day at the track.
More then that and probably better to keep it under warranty.
ive got 40 track days planned in the next 3 months.
Even though my W and S are basically non existing, no choice.
If they would have sold me a new exact copy of the purple one with warranty, I would have taken it.
He figures another no option but this time I went nuts and just ordered all option < $1000 on top of the brochure car, and even A free CXX option so I have something to talk about when I take purple to C&C hahaha.
http://cc.porsche.com/icc_euro/ccCal...bcode=PK1A9XZ2
But even if D exceeds 3/1 on CR1 then there is the expired warranty...
I’ve done the math and my car has close to 200 hours. There’s only so much you can expect from a car.
No luck on the Porsche Platinum warranty extension.
At a minimum that needs to be added to CR1.
Its done me good and so I’m taking it back to stock and make it my Cars and Coffee car, weekend cruiser.
Anyone buying the .2RS for the “better” engine is wasting money if you use mine as a reference.
- Didn’t break it in. Hammer down @200 miles
- Used 200cc oil initially. Stopped using oil around 15,000 miles.
- Faillures; a cooling line at 22,000 miles, thermostat at 34,000 miles.
I did give it all the required preventive maintenance I could think of...
So besides the math and project COO, basically if you don’t track it more than 20 days a year the .1RS is the better deal @$1500 a day at the track.
More then that and probably better to keep it under warranty.
ive got 40 track days planned in the next 3 months.
Even though my W and S are basically non existing, no choice.
If they would have sold me a new exact copy of the purple one with warranty, I would have taken it.
03-03-2019, 11:50 AM
#36
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wishing I Was At The Track
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Anyone buying the .2RS for the “better” engine is wasting money if you use mine as a reference.
- Didn’t break it in. Hammer down @200 miles
- Used 200cc oil initially. Stopped using oil around 15,000 miles.
- Faillures; a cooling line at 22,000 miles, thermostat at 34,000 miles.
- Didn’t break it in. Hammer down @200 miles
- Used 200cc oil initially. Stopped using oil around 15,000 miles.
- Faillures; a cooling line at 22,000 miles, thermostat at 34,000 miles.
Exactly. Please show me all the failed .1 RS motors....
Current dealer trade-in value offer on .1 RS is $30k-$40k below MSRP. Current ADM on .2 RS +$5k-$20k. Keeps coming up $60k-$65k delta. Can't recall finishing a drive in .1 RS and left wanting so I'm happy to wait - more cars incoming, more cars piling up at dealers, VIP lock ups rolling off, and 992 GT3/RS chatter on the upswing = prices only going one way.
But new is new and if you need new then logic doesn't apply.
03-03-2019, 12:25 PM
#38
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Where I get the fresh scent of spent Jet Fuel & see Cold Smoke!
Posts: 395
Received 36 Likes
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.2RS is .2RS
New is new
But Either car:
Uses same tires
Used same cost clear bra/ windshield
Uses same cost of fuel
Uses same oil change/
Uses centerlock hubs schedule of maintenance
Same cost to ship around
Same running costs. If you spent the difference on running costs just doing track days you would have a lot of fun! We can call that the Pete/ TRAKCAR constant ratio.
Take you want and subtract cost of car you have
C2-C1= Price D
Divide Price D by consumable fixed ratio
Consumable fixed ratio = 4 tire changes, 1 annual service, 1 brake pad change, 2 oil changes, 1 brake duct plastic, and one chin spoiler consumable rubber piece. CR1
( If you are confused by CR1, then you are only here for machines and caffeine and you should buy the new car because it is shinier. Don't sell anything, buy two! )
D/ CR1 - If D exceeds 3/1 ratio...then you will have more fun by beating on your current car, C1.
C2-C1= D
D/ CR1 = x
If x > 3, keep current car
If x < 3, buy new car
*if you have 2016 on its first set / original tires this does not apply
New is new
But Either car:
Uses same tires
Used same cost clear bra/ windshield
Uses same cost of fuel
Uses same oil change/
Uses centerlock hubs schedule of maintenance
Same cost to ship around
Same running costs. If you spent the difference on running costs just doing track days you would have a lot of fun! We can call that the Pete/ TRAKCAR constant ratio.
Take you want and subtract cost of car you have
C2-C1= Price D
Divide Price D by consumable fixed ratio
Consumable fixed ratio = 4 tire changes, 1 annual service, 1 brake pad change, 2 oil changes, 1 brake duct plastic, and one chin spoiler consumable rubber piece. CR1
( If you are confused by CR1, then you are only here for machines and caffeine and you should buy the new car because it is shinier. Don't sell anything, buy two! )
D/ CR1 - If D exceeds 3/1 ratio...then you will have more fun by beating on your current car, C1.
C2-C1= D
D/ CR1 = x
If x > 3, keep current car
If x < 3, buy new car
*if you have 2016 on its first set / original tires this does not apply
