Extended storage lift
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Extended storage lift
Hey all...
Does anyone experience with this lift:
https://www.autostacker.com/
I was interested in a BendPak four-post, however, the garage height in our new house will not work. The Auto Stacker will work for my application; thus interested in opinions of anyone who owns one.
Tnx
Does anyone experience with this lift:
https://www.autostacker.com/
I was interested in a BendPak four-post, however, the garage height in our new house will not work. The Auto Stacker will work for my application; thus interested in opinions of anyone who owns one.
Tnx
#2
Rennlist Member
Search Garage lifts in this forum. Lots of discussion on these. There was a couple people that were happy with auto stacker. I ended up buying Challenger 4 poster lift because it didn't need air compressor like Bendback. My total ceiling height with 2 Porsche's is around 9' as well.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Search Garage lifts in this forum. Lots of discussion on these. There was a couple people that were happy with auto stacker. I ended up buying Challenger 4 poster lift because it didn't need air compressor like Bendback. My total ceiling height with 2 Porsche's is around 9' as well.
#4
Not much out there on the stacker. New product for them within last year or so. I tried to find reviews last summer. A few guys on here got them late last summer and into fall. Don't recall thread you'll have to search. I raised my trusses and went with HD9.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
https://www.bendpak.com/HD-9-Series-...ce-Heights.pdf
#7
My calculations indicate I will have 1.5-2 inches to spare going with the HD9. Do you find you are able to adjust the locks within the range specified in their critical clearance doc below? i.e my M2C is 56", therefore I need to adjust 58.1"- 59.8". If I can screw down the ramp lock to 58.1" clearance, I should have 63.1" on the top of the drive on upper ramp. I add 50" for the GT3 and I should have 4.5" to spare. f I understand correctly, I need 3" so the upper ramp can move past the lock and lower onto said lock; thoughts?
https://www.bendpak.com/HD-9-Series-...ce-Heights.pdf
https://www.bendpak.com/HD-9-Series-...ce-Heights.pdf
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#8
Rennlist Member
I haven't had the need to adjust the locks yet. You need at least 2" above the lock to lower the car to the ground. When raising the car you pass a safety lock and then lower to the nearest lock. So depending which lock you want to use and clearance, you'll need to ensure at least 2" again. For comfort more room is better of course because it's not a precision instrument and wouldn't want to make contact with the garage ceiling. I have an exposed ceiling and added 12" headspace by modifying a few trusses around the cars greenhouse. This way that portion can tuck into the "ceiling". I didn't do all trusses purely as a cost savings measure as this is a stop gap until we move soon.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
I haven't had the need to adjust the locks yet. You need at least 2" above the lock to lower the car to the ground. When raising the car you pass a safety lock and then lower to the nearest lock. So depending which lock you want to use and clearance, you'll need to ensure at least 2" again. For comfort more room is better of course because it's not a precision instrument and wouldn't want to make contact with the garage ceiling. I have an exposed ceiling and added 12" headspace by modifying a few trusses around the cars greenhouse. This way that portion can tuck into the "ceiling". I didn't do all trusses purely as a cost savings measure as this is a stop gap until we move soon.
I agree with this. You could cut the trusses and put a coffered ceiling in the area where the roof of the car is. Would be cheap to do in comparison with getting a much more expensive lift. My bet is you can cut and fix the trusses and paint and sheetrock for less than $1000-1500 .
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter