Garage building advice...
01-21-2019, 05:39 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Garage building advice...
In the process with working with an architect in building our home. Obviously, main concern for me is the garage situation. Looking for a place to put a total about 5-6 cars. Main garage for us a 25x25 detached two-car garage (breezeway into home) w/ 12 foot ceiling to put lifts. Interegrated into the house, is a 4-car tandem garage into the basement. This is my initial concept.
Anyone that went through the process, can you share some do's/don'ts/tips/advice/$hit to avoid with us?
Thanks!
Anyone that went through the process, can you share some do's/don'ts/tips/advice/$hit to avoid with us?
Thanks!
01-21-2019, 06:41 PM
#2
Ive been giving this a ton of thought as Im tossing around the idea of building a home just to improve my garage situation. We have a 4 car garage with a lift in one of the bays so 5 cars total- not terrible by any means but its not "spectacular". Here are things that I would want if we move ahead with the project:
1- Make the garage bigger than you need. Tandem is fine but give yourself extra room on the sides of the cars so its easy to get in and out. You dont want to be struggling to open doors etc. Plenty of room to work around.
2- Tile the floor- it just looks so clean to have tiled floors. Id go with white tile and white walls. Black also looks killer but its just impossible to keep clean.
3- Put a drain in the floor- if you want to wash your car you can do so (although if you are doing it in the basement, probably not much washing going on)
4- pendulum lights strategically placed above where the cars are so there is plenty of light on the cars to shine them up
5- electrical in the flooring so that you can place your car trickle chargers in the ground without issue. I hate cables running all over the place
6- decide early if you want/need cabinets and again- give yourself plenty of space to open cabinet doors etc. I hate a garage which is so tight that the cabinets are up against the the doors and there just isn't room to move around _this is how my current garage is
7- If possilbe- id put my office in the garage- I dont need much- just a desk and some couches so that you can relax and lounge around. So its sort of a man cave/garage.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
1- Make the garage bigger than you need. Tandem is fine but give yourself extra room on the sides of the cars so its easy to get in and out. You dont want to be struggling to open doors etc. Plenty of room to work around.
2- Tile the floor- it just looks so clean to have tiled floors. Id go with white tile and white walls. Black also looks killer but its just impossible to keep clean.
3- Put a drain in the floor- if you want to wash your car you can do so (although if you are doing it in the basement, probably not much washing going on)
4- pendulum lights strategically placed above where the cars are so there is plenty of light on the cars to shine them up
5- electrical in the flooring so that you can place your car trickle chargers in the ground without issue. I hate cables running all over the place
6- decide early if you want/need cabinets and again- give yourself plenty of space to open cabinet doors etc. I hate a garage which is so tight that the cabinets are up against the the doors and there just isn't room to move around _this is how my current garage is
7- If possilbe- id put my office in the garage- I dont need much- just a desk and some couches so that you can relax and lounge around. So its sort of a man cave/garage.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
01-21-2019, 06:47 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Have not yet gone through this. However, when I do build I would somehow integrate the garage with a hangout / office area. One way is to put up a big piece of glass as a wall, in order to be able to enjoy looking at the cars while they are parked. I know this is not for everyone... Personally, I would love this.
I would assume you have already gone through "My Garage" thread for inspiration. If not, you should.
I would assume you have already gone through "My Garage" thread for inspiration. If not, you should.
01-21-2019, 06:59 PM
#4
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Keep It Simple
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01-21-2019, 07:03 PM
#5
Been a few years, but suggest review lift specs carefully- I ended up going to 13 ft ceiling to have extra clearance (2 post asymmetric). Look at the door design to work with the higher ceiling for the lift. Also may need a section of the foundation/slab to be thicker for the lift posts location. Check the electrical circuits needed including 220v for lift, and/or other equipment. Include lots of outlets. Consider breaker box locations. Lighting/windows- I wish I had put more thinking into that - my set up is a little weak. Always easier to do up front. Consider HVAC needs. Plumbing, water heater? floor drains? Floor coating? Attic storage? Exterior- any zoning or HOA requirements? Driveway design- I was limited by available lot space and sometime if I need to "shuffle" cars it's a little hassle- wish I could have paved over more of the lawn. Security considerations. That's most of the things I thought about and worked with contractor on.
01-21-2019, 08:15 PM
#6
A few quick thoughts on things that might not be covered, coming from an architect.
-Light it as you would your living room for the areas that are for show, so adjustable narrow floods, layered lighting instead of even, dimmable 3000°K with high CRI (90+ color rendition index), most put the lights right above the car, it’s better between and off of a slight distance and angle the lighting in. For work areas use task lighting but put it on another circuit, this light does not make cars look good. Use lamps with good “cut-off” so you don’t see lamps, glare and flare, indirect is very nice too...coves reflected off of walls and uplight reflected down etc. Think of it as retail lighting tuned down, next time your shopping check it out, it’s a science to make you want to buy things.
-Use sound insulating batts, spray closed cell foam and/or staggered walls studs and suspended drywall ceiling on acoustical/resilient channel isolators if it’s sharing walls with bedrooms or other parts of the house that don’t love your bypass at 6am.
-Build the walls around the garage on a low concrete curb if you plan to ever have it wet, this is what restaurants do to keep moisture off the framing and finishes. It’s easy and not costly up front, a 3” tall curb that can be covered with rubber cove base or whatever you like.
-Tile is great and you may consider epoxy grout if you work on it a lot, pricey but chemical resistant.
-Check out the different types of drywall if you bang around, there are versions for high traffic use with fiber mesh reinforcing. Check out matte finish vinyl wall covering that can look very clean and be durable.
-Put a continuous layer of 1/2” plywood behind the drywall between the desired heights above the floor where you may mount things on the wall later like cabinets, tire racks, storage...make up the gap with another layer of 1/2” drywall.
-Put the compressor in a separate small room, or build it into a sound insulated cabinet if you can. I hate noise. Also a good place for water softener or spot free equipment.
-Pay for the best insulated garage doors and openers you can, keep the tracks hidden, high or out of the way. Pay attention to sealing the doors to keep dust out when your landscapers are using blowers. Minimize the threshold curb height, it just feels nicer driving in. You can adjust the doors to compress the bottom seal. I like big compressible weather seals.
-Put in windows or skylights, nothing beats daylighting.
-Low sone bathroom vent fans can work ‘okay’ for little money if you work in winter or summer and condition the garage and need to clear the air, get out moisture.
-A few flush wi-if speakers are easy and cheap.
-Light it as you would your living room for the areas that are for show, so adjustable narrow floods, layered lighting instead of even, dimmable 3000°K with high CRI (90+ color rendition index), most put the lights right above the car, it’s better between and off of a slight distance and angle the lighting in. For work areas use task lighting but put it on another circuit, this light does not make cars look good. Use lamps with good “cut-off” so you don’t see lamps, glare and flare, indirect is very nice too...coves reflected off of walls and uplight reflected down etc. Think of it as retail lighting tuned down, next time your shopping check it out, it’s a science to make you want to buy things.
-Use sound insulating batts, spray closed cell foam and/or staggered walls studs and suspended drywall ceiling on acoustical/resilient channel isolators if it’s sharing walls with bedrooms or other parts of the house that don’t love your bypass at 6am.
-Build the walls around the garage on a low concrete curb if you plan to ever have it wet, this is what restaurants do to keep moisture off the framing and finishes. It’s easy and not costly up front, a 3” tall curb that can be covered with rubber cove base or whatever you like.
-Tile is great and you may consider epoxy grout if you work on it a lot, pricey but chemical resistant.
-Check out the different types of drywall if you bang around, there are versions for high traffic use with fiber mesh reinforcing. Check out matte finish vinyl wall covering that can look very clean and be durable.
-Put a continuous layer of 1/2” plywood behind the drywall between the desired heights above the floor where you may mount things on the wall later like cabinets, tire racks, storage...make up the gap with another layer of 1/2” drywall.
-Put the compressor in a separate small room, or build it into a sound insulated cabinet if you can. I hate noise. Also a good place for water softener or spot free equipment.
-Pay for the best insulated garage doors and openers you can, keep the tracks hidden, high or out of the way. Pay attention to sealing the doors to keep dust out when your landscapers are using blowers. Minimize the threshold curb height, it just feels nicer driving in. You can adjust the doors to compress the bottom seal. I like big compressible weather seals.
-Put in windows or skylights, nothing beats daylighting.
-Low sone bathroom vent fans can work ‘okay’ for little money if you work in winter or summer and condition the garage and need to clear the air, get out moisture.
-A few flush wi-if speakers are easy and cheap.
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01-21-2019, 08:29 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
wow thank you very much for the feedback guys! this is incredibly helpful 
Trending Topics
01-21-2019, 08:58 PM
#8
01-21-2019, 09:02 PM
#9
A garage has no plumbing, no basement below it and other things like heating ducts so it’s super cheap to build when compared to a home. So 25x25 costs a bit less than a 25x40. Build bigger and make a room to hang out - pool table, pinball. And add the in floor heating pipes now for a future system if you can’t do it right away. You’ll end up using that room more than the house.
01-21-2019, 09:09 PM
#10
Racer
A few quick thoughts on things that might not be covered, coming from an architect.
-Light it as you would your living room for the areas that are for show, so adjustable narrow floods, layered lighting instead of even, dimmable 3000°K with high CRI (90+ color rendition index), most put the lights right above the car, it’s better between and off of a slight distance and angle the lighting in. For work areas use task lighting but put it on another circuit, this light does not make cars look good. Use lamps with good “cut-off” so you don’t see lamps, glare and flare, indirect is very nice too...coves reflected off of walls and uplight reflected down etc. Think of it as retail lighting tuned down, next time your shopping check it out, it’s a science to make you want to buy things.
-Use sound insulating batts, spray closed cell foam and/or staggered walls studs and suspended drywall ceiling on acoustical/resilient channel isolators if it’s sharing walls with bedrooms or other parts of the house that don’t love your bypass at 6am.
-Build the walls around the garage on a low concrete curb if you plan to ever have it wet, this is what restaurants do to keep moisture off the framing and finishes. It’s easy and not costly up front, a 3” tall curb that can be covered with rubber cove base or whatever you like.
-Tile is great and you may consider epoxy grout if you work on it a lot, pricey but chemical resistant.
-Check out the different types of drywall if you bang around, there are versions for high traffic use with fiber mesh reinforcing. Check out matte finish vinyl wall covering that can look very clean and be durable.
-Put a continuous layer of 1/2” plywood behind the drywall between the desired heights above the floor where you may mount things on the wall later like cabinets, tire racks, storage...make up the gap with another layer of 1/2” drywall.
-Put the compressor in a separate small room, or build it into a sound insulated cabinet if you can. I hate noise. Also a good place for water softener or spot free equipment.
-Pay for the best insulated garage doors and openers you can, keep the tracks hidden, high or out of the way. Pay attention to sealing the doors to keep dust out when your landscapers are using blowers. Minimize the threshold curb height, it just feels nicer driving in. You can adjust the doors to compress the bottom seal. I like big compressible weather seals.
-Put in windows or skylights, nothing beats daylighting.
-Low sone bathroom vent fans can work ‘okay’ for little money if you work in winter or summer and condition the garage and need to clear the air, get out moisture.
-A few flush wi-if speakers are easy and cheap.
-Light it as you would your living room for the areas that are for show, so adjustable narrow floods, layered lighting instead of even, dimmable 3000°K with high CRI (90+ color rendition index), most put the lights right above the car, it’s better between and off of a slight distance and angle the lighting in. For work areas use task lighting but put it on another circuit, this light does not make cars look good. Use lamps with good “cut-off” so you don’t see lamps, glare and flare, indirect is very nice too...coves reflected off of walls and uplight reflected down etc. Think of it as retail lighting tuned down, next time your shopping check it out, it’s a science to make you want to buy things.
-Use sound insulating batts, spray closed cell foam and/or staggered walls studs and suspended drywall ceiling on acoustical/resilient channel isolators if it’s sharing walls with bedrooms or other parts of the house that don’t love your bypass at 6am.
-Build the walls around the garage on a low concrete curb if you plan to ever have it wet, this is what restaurants do to keep moisture off the framing and finishes. It’s easy and not costly up front, a 3” tall curb that can be covered with rubber cove base or whatever you like.
-Tile is great and you may consider epoxy grout if you work on it a lot, pricey but chemical resistant.
-Check out the different types of drywall if you bang around, there are versions for high traffic use with fiber mesh reinforcing. Check out matte finish vinyl wall covering that can look very clean and be durable.
-Put a continuous layer of 1/2” plywood behind the drywall between the desired heights above the floor where you may mount things on the wall later like cabinets, tire racks, storage...make up the gap with another layer of 1/2” drywall.
-Put the compressor in a separate small room, or build it into a sound insulated cabinet if you can. I hate noise. Also a good place for water softener or spot free equipment.
-Pay for the best insulated garage doors and openers you can, keep the tracks hidden, high or out of the way. Pay attention to sealing the doors to keep dust out when your landscapers are using blowers. Minimize the threshold curb height, it just feels nicer driving in. You can adjust the doors to compress the bottom seal. I like big compressible weather seals.
-Put in windows or skylights, nothing beats daylighting.
-Low sone bathroom vent fans can work ‘okay’ for little money if you work in winter or summer and condition the garage and need to clear the air, get out moisture.
-A few flush wi-if speakers are easy and cheap.
Thanks. JB
01-21-2019, 09:15 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
All of the above is good advice, so keep it simple:
1) Make it bigger than you need- you might have a heavy duty truck take more space than you expect.
2) Natural light is welcome and nice if you spend lots of time in the garage- so windows for sure
3) MOST important- condition the space. Both heating and cooling, the best way to make sure you make the most of your investment and also keep your cars better preserved (and everything else- like tires...)
Exciting stuff! Have fun planning it out!
1) Make it bigger than you need- you might have a heavy duty truck take more space than you expect.
2) Natural light is welcome and nice if you spend lots of time in the garage- so windows for sure
3) MOST important- condition the space. Both heating and cooling, the best way to make sure you make the most of your investment and also keep your cars better preserved (and everything else- like tires...)
Exciting stuff! Have fun planning it out!
01-21-2019, 09:32 PM
#12
Great suggestions here. I’m really getting motivated to redo my garage. I don’t think building a new house is going to work for me. I think I need to rip the drywall, add some insulation and weather proof the garage doors. Maybe put a small mini split ac to keep the temps tolerable in the ax summer. Throw some tile, paint the walls and redo the lighting. Would go a long way towards improving the environment.
01-21-2019, 09:40 PM
#13
SJW, a Carin' kinda guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I built a 25x25 because that is all the township would permit. It is a stupid size as it is too narrow for three cars across comfortably. I do have three cars across, but they are not readily accessible and also have one perpendicular (I have a car problem). Something like 25x40 would be better or even 22x40 or something. Whatever is closest to having a long string of bays is ideal. Unless you only want two cars in it, then 25x25 is fine. I used wood for the walls and roof, but if I were to do it again, I would just make it all out of cinder block with a flat roof on steel trusses and make it very tall like a mechanics shop.
Since you have a drive in basement, do the whole basement garage approved if you can (I know there are code requirements for making a basement a garage). I looked into doing this at my other house which has a 4000 Sq/ft basement with nice 9ft plus ceilings, but the code issues and logistics on the retrofit makes it less expensive to just build the giant garage outbuilding/warehouse of my dreams (no limit on garage size at that house). But at this point, I have come to the conclusion that for my lifestyle I am better off buying/building a warehouse/industrial building with a little bedroom/bath/kitchen to live in as I don’t need much actual living space, just storage and garage space.
Since you have a drive in basement, do the whole basement garage approved if you can (I know there are code requirements for making a basement a garage). I looked into doing this at my other house which has a 4000 Sq/ft basement with nice 9ft plus ceilings, but the code issues and logistics on the retrofit makes it less expensive to just build the giant garage outbuilding/warehouse of my dreams (no limit on garage size at that house). But at this point, I have come to the conclusion that for my lifestyle I am better off buying/building a warehouse/industrial building with a little bedroom/bath/kitchen to live in as I don’t need much actual living space, just storage and garage space.
01-21-2019, 09:44 PM
#14
Great suggestions here. I’m really getting motivated to redo my garage. I don’t think building a new house is going to work for me. I think I need to rip the drywall, add some insulation and weather proof the garage doors. Maybe put a small mini split ac to keep the temps tolerable in the ax summer. Throw some tile, paint the walls and redo the lighting. Would go a long way towards improving the environment.
01-21-2019, 10:14 PM
#15
yeah, need to ge this project going. My younger one is a junior in high school and will be leaving in a year plus. I was thinking I’d wait but going to start getting estimates on this project. Shouldn’t be too complicated I think.
