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They have a flanged end which does not fit into the hole for the bolt on my 991.2 GT3, thus the bolt isn't threaded in long enough to give me confidence that everything is set up right.
The bolts will be way under the car. Get yourself a set of longnose vice grips to put the straps on when the car is hot. This will save you burning your face.
The bolts will be way under the car. Get yourself a set of longnose vice grips to put the straps on when the car is hot. This will save you burning your face.
Big thanks for the reply. Good to know.
Originally Posted by BlazinPond
I took a few pics when I installed mine last fall.
Certainly different than instructions/pics...
Hope I did it correct...although I've done about 14-hours towing and it worked perfect
Appreciate it...
I thought the flanged end would have been recessed into the hole, but your pic seems to have the same finding. The flange sits higher. The end of the bolt on the other side has only a thread or two sticking out. Makes me wonder....
Also - I ended up bending my rear tie downs slightly so they don't hit the cross member. Rennline needs to make those spacers about 2mm or so thicker. I guess another solution is to put a stainless steel between the tie down and subframe.
Do you have access to a lift? Or would it help? Let me know it so and if you want to roll up to Jasper. We can throw it on my brothers lift.
Yeah... getting to know my new Quickjack. I was using the Rennline tie downs on my GT4 and they seemed to fit perfectly. I see they have a few models with different angles... and a "universal" version. I'll give 'em a call tomorrow and report back.
I thought the flanged end would have been recessed into the hole, but your pic seems to have the same finding. The flange sits higher. The end of the bolt on the other side has only a thread or two sticking out. Makes me wonder....
I have the same Rennline product, and I wondered the same thing. Didn't like the idea of less threads going back into the subframe, made me worry about weakening the structure. I put the Rennlines aside and use these instead:
I talked with the fine folks at Rennline and found the following. The "spacer" (not flange) is intentional to raise the tie down high enough to clear parts of the subframe. The tie down can also be rotated partially before you tighten it down to match the tow strap angle that you prefer so that it doesn't rotate under load.
Specs on what is supposed to be a bolt ok to re-use (according to RL's engineers) is to torque to 22 and then 90 degrees more. Reaching that last part of the 90 turn is a bitch, so just tight-as-hell seems to get it done. And those last few threads sticking out the other side are supposedly just fine by Rennline's engineers too.
They are also in the process of updating their how-to documentation in several areas. I expressed that this one needs an update too.
Towed from Atlanta to Barber today... no issues. But can't wait till my face is next to that hot muffler in the cold, dark rain on Sunday night trying to reach those tie downs.
"Towed from Atlanta to Barber today... no issues. But can't wait till my face is next to that hot muffler in the cold, dark rain on Sunday night trying to reach those tie "
That's why you need the long needle nose vice gripe. On and off in about 10 seconds when you get use to them.
I've trailered my car with the rennline hooks to over 20 events and about 5000 miles over the last year. Including a run from Ottawa, Canada to Road Atlanta on some of the roughest roads I've seen in Pennsylvania. It was so rough that the ramp lip of my trailer fell off (no damage to car thankfully) but the car didn't move. The other nice thing about the rennline tie downs on the GT3.2 is they are very low and do not really compress the suspension. Cross them a 45 degrees front and back and if for some reason one of them lets go the likelihood of any movement is low.
I have the same Rennline product, and I wondered the same thing. Didn't like the idea of less threads going back into the subframe, made me worry about weakening the structure. I put the Rennlines aside and use these instead:
Are you saying that the RS has frame holes similar to BMWs? I haven't lifted the car to take a look. I used these with the BMW race cars all the time and as long as your straps have four or more turns in the ratchet they very loosen.
Palting...I found your answer on another thread. Yes, it does appear that these hooks can be used easily in the jack points. They have holes to accommodate these. I can figure out for the life of me why my dealer doesn't use these and would rather run straps through the wheels when transporting on flat beds.....
01-10-2019, 06:43 PM
Rennline rear tie down for GT3
