Hi all,

So to summarize here are your options for CL wheels:
1) Take it to the dealer
2) Precision Instruments wrench with the breaker bar combo
3) Renntorq Center Lock removal tool using their torque multiplier (4.73:1 ratio) - $2200
4) Neiko 03715B Torque multiplier (3:1 ratio) - $220 plus some other tools listed below.

For reference, I have a 991.1 GT3 . I've been using the Precision Instruments wrench.

All options have their pros and cons.
Option 1 - Dealer
Pros - you don't have to do it
Cons - cost, time/inconvenience

Option 2 - PI wrench
Pros - you can do it in your garage, inexpensive, tried and true by Rennlisters
Cons - big, heavy, bulky, long wrench can be tough if you have a small garage, portable but big and bulky to transport in a small car.

Option 3 - Renntorq CL tool
Pros - compact, appears easy to use, less strain on your body!
Cons - cost $$$, I worry about the force on the wheel with the reaction arm - either scratching the wheel or weakening it

Option 4 - Neiko torque multiplier
Pros - cost - probably cheapest of these options, compact and less bulky than the PI wrench, less strain on your body (but more than the Renntorq tool since multiplier is only 3:1 instead of 4.73:1)

The tools needed for the Neiko torque multiplier:
1) Neiko 03715B Torque multiplier

2) Torque wrench that can go at least up to 150 ft-lbs. I use this eTork wrench. $90

3) Neiko 20743A Digital Torque Adapter. I didn't know this existed.

4) Center Lock nut (you should have in your car)

The Neiko Torque multiplier claims a 6% frictional gear loss. I wanted to calibrate this with my setup by using the Neiko Digital Torque Adapter on the output of the multiplier on to the CL lug. The target torque on the lug should be 443 ft-lbs. So with a 6% frictional loss I calculated 443x1.06 = 469.6 ft-lbs. Divide that by 3 since the Neiko is a 3:1 multiplier = 156.5 ft-lbs on the input to the multiplier.

I connected the Neiko Digital Torque Adapter to the CL nut then connected that to the output of the Neiko multiplier then connected the eTork wrench to the input of the multiplier set at 156 ft-lbs. When I did that I got 468 ft-lbs on the Digital torque adapter. So it looks like there is pretty much no frictional gear loss. So I set the torque wrench down to 147 ft-lbs and redid the torque (after loosening the lug 1/4 turn) and got 434 ft-lbs on the digital torque adapter.

I confirmed the torque setting again by putting the Precision Instrument wrench set at 440 ft-lbs and torqued the CL lug down. It clicked right away and I did not feel the CL lug move so I know it's at least 440 ft-lbs which confirmed the digital torque adapter. The Neiko digital torque adapter supposedly had an error of 2%. I found pretty much no error.

One more thing, the reaction bar was too short to touch the ground as I suspected. So I put a 2x4 wood block on the floor for the bar to lean against. It dug a dent in the 2x4 but at least these are easily replaceable.

So total cost for this setup was $389.
1) Neiko torque multiplier - $220
2) Neiko Digital torque adapter - $79
3) Torque wrench - $90. You guys probably already have this. My wrench only went up to 150 ft-lbs and I wanted more range on the torque wrench and the eTork wrench has a range from 25-250 ft-lbs.

Cost is the same as the PI wrench for me but probably cheaper for you? If you trust my numbers then you probably won't need to get the digital torque adapter? I think you would only have to calibrate this once in a while? You may want to calibrate your torque multiplier and torque wrench anyways since the wrench and multiplier that I got may not be exactly what you get?

I think I'm going to go with option 4) - the Neiko multiplier setup.

I've attached some photos below of the setup.

Hope this helps you all.

The setup with everything attached. I plan on not using the Neiko digital torque adapter (the red thing) except once in a while to calibrate which should make it less bulky and stick out less.