Quick question about winter storage for GT cars
#1
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Quick question about winter storage for GT cars
hello fellas
Preparing my GT3 for winter hibernation mode
i had my oil changed about 2 months ago with 1300 miles. Car now has 3k miles. Is it worth to change oil now or wait till the spring? I’ve always did it before storage, old habit. No evidence it is better or not.
also, I’ve always over inflated the tires on my GTS to 60. I presume it is safe to do so with Cup 2 tires?
thansk!
Preparing my GT3 for winter hibernation mode
i had my oil changed about 2 months ago with 1300 miles. Car now has 3k miles. Is it worth to change oil now or wait till the spring? I’ve always did it before storage, old habit. No evidence it is better or not.
also, I’ve always over inflated the tires on my GTS to 60. I presume it is safe to do so with Cup 2 tires?
thansk!
#2
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I think the maximum allowable pressure is stamped on the sidewall of the tires. I know it's important not to let them get too cold. Better if kept above freezing and can be permanently ruined if exposed to 10F or less...
#3
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#4
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This is what I do for winter storage for any car:
1. Thorough wash and apply wax. Clean out the interior.
- car cover if the area is dusty or lots of people walk by with shopping bags.
2. Trickle charger into the cigarette lighter. Ctek is the one I like best.
3. Drive the car on "Flat Stoppers" - lifts the car from cold floor and prevents any flat spots. Very good idea if your car sits on cement in an unheated garage. No need to over inflate tires.
Since your oil is only 2 months old, I would just wait till spring to get a new oil change for the season.
1. Thorough wash and apply wax. Clean out the interior.
- car cover if the area is dusty or lots of people walk by with shopping bags.
2. Trickle charger into the cigarette lighter. Ctek is the one I like best.
3. Drive the car on "Flat Stoppers" - lifts the car from cold floor and prevents any flat spots. Very good idea if your car sits on cement in an unheated garage. No need to over inflate tires.
Since your oil is only 2 months old, I would just wait till spring to get a new oil change for the season.
#5
Last winter it was absolutely freezing here for much of the winter.....tires made it through just fine.....
#6
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And more stuff about storing DOT tires in Winter from Tire Rack:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=221
#7
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#8
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Last year I bought 2 inexpensive oil-filled radiator type space heaters at Home Depot for my unheated attached garage and the temps stayed above 40F.
I also insulated the garage door with foam blocks - something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Matador-SGDIK...d=183237663928
Heater only $39 each and sometimes on sale:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1500-Wat...-A7Q/205210318
#9
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Originally Posted by GrantG
I think the maximum allowable pressure is stamped on the sidewall of the tires. ...
OP, your Oil is fine. Pump up your tires to 55-58 psi. Stabilize your fuel with 1 ounce StaBil per 2.5 gallons fuel. Plug in battery maintainer. Put cover on. Secure keys. Call insurance and suspend most coverages. Don't start it till spring 2019.
#10
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That has zero to do with winter hibernation.
OP, your Oil is fine. Pump up your tires to 55-58 psi. Stabilize your fuel with 1 ounce StaBil per 2.5 gallons fuel. Plug in battery maintainer. Put cover on. Secure keys. Call insurance and suspend most coverages. Don't start it till spring 2019.
OP, your Oil is fine. Pump up your tires to 55-58 psi. Stabilize your fuel with 1 ounce StaBil per 2.5 gallons fuel. Plug in battery maintainer. Put cover on. Secure keys. Call insurance and suspend most coverages. Don't start it till spring 2019.
cheers
#11
Conventional wisdom says, if you’re going to be changing the oil before you drive in the spring, do it before storage. No sense in having the used oil, complete with fuel, moisture, dirty acidic products of combustion, and various and sundry shmutz sit in your engine over the winter. Motor oil is stable stuff, not much difference if it is stored in its shipping bottle or your clean crankcase.
To prevent flat spots. Most people use a few of those free little carpet squares that flooring shops, home depot etc hand out stacked up under the tires. Last winter when we were out of the country for four months. I collected 4 one foot scraps of one-inch thick rigid foam wall insulation that were cluttering up the basement. Parking on top of them left a nice cup shaped impression in the foam, keeping the bottom of the tire perfectly round. No flat spotting ever, and extra points for recycling.
Cup 2 tires can take frigid temperatures, they just can’t take driving even slowly. The flexing of the tire will cause micro cracks in the rubber.
To prevent flat spots. Most people use a few of those free little carpet squares that flooring shops, home depot etc hand out stacked up under the tires. Last winter when we were out of the country for four months. I collected 4 one foot scraps of one-inch thick rigid foam wall insulation that were cluttering up the basement. Parking on top of them left a nice cup shaped impression in the foam, keeping the bottom of the tire perfectly round. No flat spotting ever, and extra points for recycling.
Cup 2 tires can take frigid temperatures, they just can’t take driving even slowly. The flexing of the tire will cause micro cracks in the rubber.
#15
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Park in garage. Think about temp. Think about other car/winter stuff. Wish I had washed it before parking it for the winter. Look at tires in the cold. Look at tires when winter storm blows water in a bit and tires are now frozen in an ice puddle. Look at garage fridge, no IPAs left inside. But still look and come in house when by butt is freezing off.
Almost forgot. Put all on battery thingies. Nothing through the cig lighter, all with cords connected direct to battery and never fully close the frunk bonnet. Never, and never lock the doors.
Almost forgot. Put all on battery thingies. Nothing through the cig lighter, all with cords connected direct to battery and never fully close the frunk bonnet. Never, and never lock the doors.