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So I just had a glorious 3 days at Road America. Put the car on the trailer, and drove home. I tie down the car via the wheels, routing the straps diagonally across to the other side. Its was a 10m hour drive, through construction, road roads with bad expansion joints, etc. Start up the car, and a rear wheel steering fault comes on, followed by ABS/PSM fault, followed by steering lock fault. After several unmentionable words, I put the car in gear. As soon as the car moved, all the faults go away. On the ground now, I restart the car. No more faults. I drive around the neighborhood, everything seems fine.
My best guess is that the car moved a little during the transport, the straps held the wheels, and This set off the series of faults. Once the car started and moved, it straightened itself out.
Sound reasonable? I don't want to take the car to the dealership and have them charge me just to tell me it's all fine.
Anyhow, I've ordered the Rennline tie down hook ups. No more strapping down the tires.
I do not think the sensors "sense" anything when the car is turned off. Was it still turned on when strapping? Otherwise....how old is the battery? That alway seems to be what causes sensor overload with new Porsches today. Good luck and keep RL updated if they come back. I wouldn't take it in if they are all cleared at this point.
Thanks for the reply, MileHigh911. Car was turned off during the strapping, with parking brake on. Car was delivered March, so battery is only 6 months old. The faults came on after the was car started at home, during the self check cycle. They then went off as soon as the car moved.
I'm sure there are several people here who trailer their cars, and I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue. It was a particularly long drive with particularly rough roads.
I use wheel tie downs and have not experienced anything like what the OP has described. I have experienced the alarm going off, now I don't lock the doors when trailering the car.
So I just had a glorious 3 days at Road America. Put the car on the trailer, and drove home. I tie down the car via the wheels, routing the straps diagonally across to the other side. Its was a 10m hour drive, through construction, road roads with bad expansion joints, etc. Start up the car, and a rear wheel steering fault comes on, followed by ABS/PSM fault, followed by steering lock fault. After several unmentionable words, I put the car in gear. As soon as the car moved, all the faults go away. On the ground now, I restart the car. No more faults. I drive around the neighborhood, everything seems fine.
My best guess is that the car moved a little during the transport, the straps held the wheels, and This set off the series of faults. Once the car started and moved, it straightened itself out.
Sound reasonable? I don't want to take the car to the dealership and have them charge me just to tell me it's all fine.
Anyhow, I've ordered the Rennline tie down hook ups. No more strapping down the tires.
Do not strap a RWS car through the wheels. Cars move on the trailer (they all do), so the straps will force the rear wheels (and the front ones too) to be unmatched angles. Not a problem in the front (other than losing your fresh static alignment), but a problem in the rear due to position sensor on the RWS hydraulic rods. Correct, error will disappear as you drive the car, but if you get that car to the alignment rack, the current specs are different than what was there before the 20 hours trailer trip.
Get Rennline tie down mounts for front and rear, and attach the straps to them.
Another tip: leave the car in neutral (if PDK) but apply handbrake (e-brake button) to avoid PDK errors when starting the car to unload from trailer.
use these and never use anything else again.. (on newer cars have to have jack pads out..) on anything else like a race car, these are the best.
Where do you get these, zmon?
A/S, you cannot leave PDK in neutral. Either you cannot remove the key if you turn the car off in neutral, or the lever will not move out of Park after you turn it off. I do put the e-brake on, and it holds so tight those wheels will not rotate, so there should be no PDK errors.
I tie down my car with wheels straps, never a problem. I do not cross the rear straps. For those who losing alignment setting after tying down by the wheels, switch your alignment shop/tech ASAP.
Google T hooks for towing, can get them a few places. The popular strap company MACS sells a set. the MACS ones are nice because they come with the round ring on them.
I use them on my e36 M3 race cars, GT4 Clubsport, 964..
Do not strap a RWS car through the wheels. Cars move on the trailer (they all do), so the straps will force the rear wheels (and the front ones too) to be unmatched angles. Not a problem in the front (other than losing your fresh static alignment), but a problem in the rear due to position sensor on the RWS hydraulic rods. Correct, error will disappear as you drive the car, but if you get that car to the alignment rack, the current specs are different than what was there before the 20 hours trailer trip.
Get Rennline tie down mounts for front and rear, and attach the straps to them.
Another tip: leave the car in neutral (if PDK) but apply handbrake (e-brake button) to avoid PDK errors when starting the car to unload from trailer.
I agree with the tide downs and alignment, learned the hard way. Also if a long trip you should leave the car in neutral even if the e-break is on. There is a procedure in the manual, not easy but doable and I do it when shipping the car from Seattle to COTA or Laguna.
I use wheel straps and did about 10 events a year with the GT3, expect the same this year with the RS. Roads are pretty good In Florida, so not as much jarring of the trailer. However, we did a Florida to VIR to WGI and back (~2500 miles) trailering the car over VA and PA roads and have never seen any fault.
I do not cross the straps on the rear wheels, some people do, not sure if that has an impact.
I used to trailer my 996 C4S all over the place using the wheel straps, never seemed to bother the mechanical alignment. And I played with and had the alignment checked a lot. It seems the rear wheel steering, electronic acting on mechanicals to change alignment depending on speed of the car on turns, seems a little more sensitive. Once the car started and moved, the electronics came on and straightened things out again.
Anyhow, I'll get those T hooks for the fronts, as I don't like that the Rennline tie downs take over the jack point whereas the T-hooks are easily removable. For the rears, the jack points are too close to the rear wheels and the tires will likely get in the way of the straps, so I'll use the Rennline ones as they connect to the subframe. My only concern is the undertray and the rear splitter on the 991.2 are much bigger than prior generations, and I wonder if they will get in the way of the straps if I use the Rennline ones?
I tie down my car with wheels straps, never a problem. I do not cross the rear straps. For those who losing alignment setting after tying down by the wheels, switch your alignment shop/tech ASAP.
+1
I don't cross straps, F or R, period. But then again when I specced my trailer I also specced the location of the rings fore and aft.
I wheel strap my cars using airline track and Mac's wheel straps. Using this method the suspension of the car can still articulate and absorb bumps during transport. Plus the upside is that the straps never move around like when tensioning the chassis.
09-24-2018, 04:00 PM
Rear wheel steering and trailers
