Introduction: Motul
09-19-2018, 01:30 PM
#16
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
09-19-2018, 01:44 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Are the drain intervals shorter, longer or the same for 300V vs. 8100 ?
09-19-2018, 02:13 PM
#18
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
First off nice avatar
3 part answer:
- Street driving: the 8100 series of approved Porsche A40 oils have been tested to go the distance of what the OEM recommends as a drain interval. 300V is not tested for the Porsche A40 profile and its intended use is not for long drain service applications- this is due to the ester molecule being a little unstable over long periods vs crude based synthetics. If you choose to run 300V as a street oil, stick to 1 year/5,000 mile drain, whichever comes first.
- Track only use: Since the 300V is a higher performing product in the short term, you can extend the 300V interval on the track vs the 8100 or Mobil 1 0W40
- Mixed street/track use (less than 4 track days per interval): 1 year/3,000 miles is a safe bet on either product.
Hope that helps.-Nick
09-19-2018, 02:23 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Hello,
First off nice avatar
3 part answer:
- Street driving: the 8100 series of approved Porsche A40 oils have been tested to go the distance the OEM recommends as a drain interval. 300V is not tested for the Porsche A40 profile and its intended use is not for long drain service applications- this is due to the ester molecule being a slittle unstable over long periods vs crude based synthetics. If you choose to run 300V as a street oil, stick to 1 year/5,000 mile drain, whichever comes first.
- Track only use: Since the 300V is a higher performing product in the short term, you can extend the 300V interval on the track vs the 8100 or Mobil 1 0W40
- Mixed street/track use (less than 4 track days per interval): 1 year/3,000 miles is a safe bet on either product.
Hope that helps.-Nick
First off nice avatar
3 part answer:
- Street driving: the 8100 series of approved Porsche A40 oils have been tested to go the distance the OEM recommends as a drain interval. 300V is not tested for the Porsche A40 profile and its intended use is not for long drain service applications- this is due to the ester molecule being a slittle unstable over long periods vs crude based synthetics. If you choose to run 300V as a street oil, stick to 1 year/5,000 mile drain, whichever comes first.
- Track only use: Since the 300V is a higher performing product in the short term, you can extend the 300V interval on the track vs the 8100 or Mobil 1 0W40
- Mixed street/track use (less than 4 track days per interval): 1 year/3,000 miles is a safe bet on either product.
Hope that helps.-Nick
This was my understanding as well, but I wanted to confirm with the experts. I run 300V in my RSV4 race bike, and 8100 Xcess in my 991.1. I've been hooked on Motul for the past decade. Best stuff out there IMO.
09-19-2018, 06:30 PM
#20
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Thanks Nick! Maybe we will get another album before another decade passes
This was my understanding as well, but I wanted to confirm with the experts. I run 300V in my RSV4 race bike, and 8100 Xcess in my 991.1. I've been hooked on Motul for the past decade. Best stuff out there IMO.
This was my understanding as well, but I wanted to confirm with the experts. I run 300V in my RSV4 race bike, and 8100 Xcess in my 991.1. I've been hooked on Motul for the past decade. Best stuff out there IMO.
Thanks for the kind words. Have fun in the RSV4 and 991
09-27-2018, 10:36 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Welcome!
About 2 years ago I bought a box of Motul RBF 600, in preparation for a season of DE. Long story short, plans fell through. Now I'm back, box is still sealed, and wondering if they are still good to use. I assume they would be okay, just thought I'd ask you!
Thanks!!
About 2 years ago I bought a box of Motul RBF 600, in preparation for a season of DE. Long story short, plans fell through. Now I'm back, box is still sealed, and wondering if they are still good to use. I assume they would be okay, just thought I'd ask you!
Thanks!!
09-28-2018, 06:44 PM
#22
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Welcome!
About 2 years ago I bought a box of Motul RBF 600, in preparation for a season of DE. Long story short, plans fell through. Now I'm back, box is still sealed, and wondering if they are still good to use. I assume they would be okay, just thought I'd ask you!
Thanks!!
About 2 years ago I bought a box of Motul RBF 600, in preparation for a season of DE. Long story short, plans fell through. Now I'm back, box is still sealed, and wondering if they are still good to use. I assume they would be okay, just thought I'd ask you!
Thanks!!
As a general rule, if it was stored in a cool dry place, 2 years is the maximum shelf life of our brake fluids.
To be sure of this, can you provide the manufacturing date? Most RBF bottles will have it on the back of the bottle towards the top of the neck. -Nick
09-28-2018, 09:18 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
Motul.....it's all my Indy uses!
where can I score a t-shirt?
where can I score a t-shirt?
10-04-2018, 11:49 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
How would Porsche even know if you don't use a A40 approved oil, if a repair was needed? It kinda makes no sense to use a lower quality oil for the first 4 years of the life of the car. I'm thinking about switching to the 5W40 Sport ester as a middle ground, for a dual purpose car. I use it in my track only cars, so would assume it would be even more appropriate for a dual purpose car, if it's supposed to fit between 8100 and 300V.
Same with the gear oil, I'm switching to Millers LS 75W90 NT+, that stuff is like liquid gold to gearboxes.
I've got 2.5K miles on the car and need to do my first oil change, so plan to do both engine and gear oil.
Same with the gear oil, I'm switching to Millers LS 75W90 NT+, that stuff is like liquid gold to gearboxes.
I've got 2.5K miles on the car and need to do my first oil change, so plan to do both engine and gear oil.
10-04-2018, 09:46 PM
#26
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
How would Porsche even know if you don't use a A40 approved oil, if a repair was needed? It kinda makes no sense to use a lower quality oil for the first 4 years of the life of the car. I'm thinking about switching to the 5W40 Sport ester as a middle ground, for a dual purpose car. I use it in my track only cars, so would assume it would be even more appropriate for a dual purpose car, if it's supposed to fit between 8100 and 300V.
Same with the gear oil, I'm switching to Millers LS 75W90 NT+, that stuff is like liquid gold to gearboxes.
I've got 2.5K miles on the car and need to do my first oil change, so plan to do both engine and gear oil.
Same with the gear oil, I'm switching to Millers LS 75W90 NT+, that stuff is like liquid gold to gearboxes.
I've got 2.5K miles on the car and need to do my first oil change, so plan to do both engine and gear oil.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Been a crazy day at the office....
Porsche will/could send the oil out for a used oil analysis if an engine failed. If the oil changes were not done at the dealer, Porsche will also ask for receipts/proof that oil changes were done with a factory approved product. You have to take into consideration that the OEM has their own agenda for recommending a certain product. Mobil gives Porsche a TON of money for that nice sticker in the engine compartment, for the in-service fill recommendation and the oil for the factory at no little to no cost. This comes with strings attached and the dealers are basically forced (and in the process the owner/consumer) to use the Mobil product. Porsche/VAG also makes a boat load of money in kick backs from Mobil on their dealer network oil purchases. Mobil gets the in-service for a lot of the life of the car so it works out in the end for the supplier. At the end of the day, the OEM doesn't really care about quality of consumable service products. They're in business to sell cars, not maintain them at the highest level possible.
The Sport 5W40 would be a great fit for your car, but again, cannot formally recommend it while it is under warranty. If you want to take the "risk" then go for it but be aware of the consequences should something go wrong.
If you're considering the Miller's, I'd look into our Gear 300 LS. Better viscosity stability vs the Miller's and it is ester based- meaning it will have greater anti-shear ability and a stronger oil film. -Nick
-Nick
10-04-2018, 09:51 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
My engine and I think the oil is great!
10-05-2018, 12:10 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Hello there,
Sorry for the delay in responding. Been a crazy day at the office....
Porsche will/could send the oil out for a used oil analysis if an engine failed. If the oil changes were not done at the dealer, Porsche will also ask for receipts/proof that oil changes were done with a factory approved product. You have to take into consideration that the OEM has their own agenda for recommending a certain product. Mobil gives Porsche a TON of money for that nice sticker in the engine compartment, for the in-service fill recommendation and the oil for the factory at no little to no cost. This comes with strings attached and the dealers are basically forced (and in the process the owner/consumer) to use the Mobil product. Porsche/VAG also makes a boat load of money in kick backs from Mobil on their dealer network oil purchases. Mobil gets the in-service for a lot of the life of the car so it works out in the end for the supplier. At the end of the day, the OEM doesn't really care about quality of consumable service products. They're in business to sell cars, not maintain them at the highest level possible.
The Sport 5W40 would be a great fit for your car, but again, cannot formally recommend it while it is under warranty. If you want to take the "risk" then go for it but be aware of the consequences should something go wrong.
If you're considering the Miller's, I'd look into our Gear 300 LS. Better viscosity stability vs the Miller's and it is ester based- meaning it will have greater anti-shear ability and a stronger oil film. -Nick
-Nick
Sorry for the delay in responding. Been a crazy day at the office....
Porsche will/could send the oil out for a used oil analysis if an engine failed. If the oil changes were not done at the dealer, Porsche will also ask for receipts/proof that oil changes were done with a factory approved product. You have to take into consideration that the OEM has their own agenda for recommending a certain product. Mobil gives Porsche a TON of money for that nice sticker in the engine compartment, for the in-service fill recommendation and the oil for the factory at no little to no cost. This comes with strings attached and the dealers are basically forced (and in the process the owner/consumer) to use the Mobil product. Porsche/VAG also makes a boat load of money in kick backs from Mobil on their dealer network oil purchases. Mobil gets the in-service for a lot of the life of the car so it works out in the end for the supplier. At the end of the day, the OEM doesn't really care about quality of consumable service products. They're in business to sell cars, not maintain them at the highest level possible.
The Sport 5W40 would be a great fit for your car, but again, cannot formally recommend it while it is under warranty. If you want to take the "risk" then go for it but be aware of the consequences should something go wrong.
If you're considering the Miller's, I'd look into our Gear 300 LS. Better viscosity stability vs the Miller's and it is ester based- meaning it will have greater anti-shear ability and a stronger oil film. -Nick
-Nick
Regarding the gear oil, the 300 LS is what I use in my enduro race car (miata), works like a champ. I've used the Motul 75W140 LS in my Cayman as well (it works well with a OS Giken LSD), along with Millers 75W140 non-LS, both seem to perform about the same. I ran Millers (non-LS) in my 997 GT3 with outstanding results. Very good cold shift properties (basically as good as OEM), but outstanding hot/track performance. I know the proprietary factory fill for the .2 GT3 is still PTX, and has some small amount of friction modifiers to aid with cold use (but not as much as conventional LS products), but with Millers they said they don't recommend the LS for track use as when hot, the nano-tech was already slippery and LS may make it too slippery for synchros. I know the ester-base stuff is already slippery as well, wondering if the Gear 300 non-LS is a better choice for a Porsche transaxle?
All my cars have some combination of only Millers and Motul, sometimes mixtures, depending on what I have in the trailer. The 5L jugs are key!
10-05-2018, 01:12 AM
#29
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Well you've done a good job of talking me out of Sport for motor oil. LOL.
Regarding the gear oil, the 300 LS is what I use in my enduro race car (miata), works like a champ. I've used the Motul 75W140 LS in my Cayman as well (it works well with a OS Giken LSD), along with Millers 75W140 non-LS, both seem to perform about the same. I ran Millers (non-LS) in my 997 GT3 with outstanding results. Very good cold shift properties (basically as good as OEM), but outstanding hot/track performance. I know the proprietary factory fill for the .2 GT3 is still PTX, and has some small amount of friction modifiers to aid with cold use (but not as much as conventional LS products), but with Millers they said they don't recommend the LS for track use as when hot, the nano-tech was already slippery and LS may make it too slippery for synchros. I know the ester-base stuff is already slippery as well, wondering if the Gear 300 non-LS is a better choice for a Porsche transaxle?
All my cars have some combination of only Millers and Motul, sometimes mixtures, depending on what I have in the trailer. The 5L jugs are key!
Regarding the gear oil, the 300 LS is what I use in my enduro race car (miata), works like a champ. I've used the Motul 75W140 LS in my Cayman as well (it works well with a OS Giken LSD), along with Millers 75W140 non-LS, both seem to perform about the same. I ran Millers (non-LS) in my 997 GT3 with outstanding results. Very good cold shift properties (basically as good as OEM), but outstanding hot/track performance. I know the proprietary factory fill for the .2 GT3 is still PTX, and has some small amount of friction modifiers to aid with cold use (but not as much as conventional LS products), but with Millers they said they don't recommend the LS for track use as when hot, the nano-tech was already slippery and LS may make it too slippery for synchros. I know the ester-base stuff is already slippery as well, wondering if the Gear 300 non-LS is a better choice for a Porsche transaxle?
All my cars have some combination of only Millers and Motul, sometimes mixtures, depending on what I have in the trailer. The 5L jugs are key!
As for the gear oil conversation, yes, totally suitable to use the Gear 300 for street and track use in the GT3. The Gear 300 (non LS) has a significantly higher VI of 222 vs the Gear 300 LS and Miller's. Yes, esters have what's known as a "lower traction coefficient" vs other synthetic oils which make them quite slippery. An esters oil film is virtually unbreakable so an ester based gear oil will be perfection for gearboxes where oil film strength is key. -Nick
10-05-2018, 02:50 AM
#30
Rennlist Member
Haha well, my job here is to give you all sound advice, not just in the best interest of Motul. That being said, you can still use our 8100 X-cess 5W40 product that holds the Porsche A40 approval, just like the Mobil 1 product. Fully covered under warranty etc. Rennlister's have had great used oil analysis results with the X-cess vs the Mobil 1 0W40 and risk nothing at all in terms of powertrain warranty etc. People have generally experienced better additive and viscosity retention with the X-cess as well as having a higher ZDDP level for higher engine protection vs the M1 0W40.
As for the gear oil conversation, yes, totally suitable to use the Gear 300 for street and track use in the GT3. The Gear 300 (non LS) has a significantly higher VI of 222 vs the Gear 300 LS and Miller's. Yes, esters have what's known as a "lower traction coefficient" vs other synthetic oils which make them quite slippery. An esters oil film is virtually unbreakable so an ester based gear oil will be perfection for gearboxes where oil film strength is key. -Nick
As for the gear oil conversation, yes, totally suitable to use the Gear 300 for street and track use in the GT3. The Gear 300 (non LS) has a significantly higher VI of 222 vs the Gear 300 LS and Miller's. Yes, esters have what's known as a "lower traction coefficient" vs other synthetic oils which make them quite slippery. An esters oil film is virtually unbreakable so an ester based gear oil will be perfection for gearboxes where oil film strength is key. -Nick
Oddly enough, the non-LS Millers is considerably heavier in terms of viscosity numbers, which is what I used before in 997, but felt it was very close to stock, but performed way better in heat.
I think I've created more questions than answers for myself, LOL.