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Advice needed: weird vibration + long brake pedal travel only when hot on track...

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Old 09-16-2018, 04:56 PM
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Mech33
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Default Advice needed: weird vibration + long brake pedal travel only when hot on track...

I was hoping to consult the Rennlist brain trust to get some advice on tracking down a braking issue I'm having on track with a 991.2 GT3. The sequence of events are as follows:

1) Brakes feel great and are smooth when cold and I start out the session. I progressively get them hotter over the course of a couple laps, and they still feeling smooth / great.

3) Once I get them really hot (pushing it hard for a couple laps), I start to get some slight pedal vibration / pulsation feel under braking.

4) As I keep pushing it and drive them hotter still, then the vibration gets noticeable all the time, even when not touching the brakes! And here's the kicker: once I hit this step (4) where the vibration becomes noticeable all the time, the brake pedal travel starts to ~double but only if I don't touch the pedal for a while (e.g., after a long straightaway). (!!) The feeling is extended travel, but then the pedal becomes firm at the end of that travel once I take up the pedal distance in that single stroke.

I've ruled out the following (but open to putting them back on the table):
- Wheel balancing (because there is no vibration at high speeds when everything is normal temperatures)
- Alignment (because there is no vibration at high speeds when everything is normal temperatures)
- Pad deposits (because the rotors look clean / smooth, and when the vibration issue gets worse I don't actually have to touch the brakes for it to happen, and replacing the rotors didn't change the problem)
- Warped rotors (because the rotor swap didn't change the problem)

My current working theory is:
- As the brakes / wheels / hubs get hot, something is developing some runout (wobble about the rotating axis), allowing the rotors to move slightly relative to the calipers. This wobble would explain the vibration.
- The wobble of the rotor relative to the caliper would then push the pistons of the calipers in slightly (pad knockback), which would explain the longer pedal travel after periods of not hitting the brakes.

But what I can't pinpoint is what component actually has the problem... I originally thought it was a problem with the brake rotors warping when they got hot, but I proactively got all 4 rotors replaced hoping it would resolve the issue, but the problem remains.

The only thing left I can think of that can cause rotor wobble relative to caliper is a wheel bearing problem: perhaps once a bad wheel bearing gets hot enough, it develops enough play to allow some runout, creating the vibration as well as the pad knockback (since the rotor and wheel are on one side of the bearing, and the upright and caliper are on the other).

But has anyone seen a wheel bearing issue on these cars that only shows up at high temperatures? The dealer is going to have a hell of a time tracking down such an issue, for obvious reasons...

Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any help!
Old 09-16-2018, 10:47 PM
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ipse dixit
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Maybe bleed the brake lines?
Old 09-16-2018, 10:56 PM
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CobaltCr
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Faulty brake booster or vacuum leak?
Old 09-16-2018, 11:19 PM
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911therapy
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Originally Posted by Mech33
I was hoping to consult the Rennlist brain trust to get some advice on tracking down a braking issue I'm having on track with a 991.2 GT3. The sequence of events are as follows:

1) Brakes feel great and are smooth when cold and I start out the session. I progressively get them hotter over the course of a couple laps, and they still feeling smooth / great.

3) Once I get them really hot (pushing it hard for a couple laps), I start to get some slight pedal vibration / pulsation feel under braking.

4) As I keep pushing it and drive them hotter still, then the vibration gets noticeable all the time, even when not touching the brakes! And here's the kicker: once I hit this step (4) where the vibration becomes noticeable all the time, the brake pedal travel starts to ~double but only if I don't touch the pedal for a while (e.g., after a long straightaway). (!!) The feeling is extended travel, but then the pedal becomes firm at the end of that travel once I take up the pedal distance in that single stroke.

I've ruled out the following (but open to putting them back on the table):
- Wheel balancing (because there is no vibration at high speeds when everything is normal temperatures)
- Alignment (because there is no vibration at high speeds when everything is normal temperatures)
- Pad deposits (because the rotors look clean / smooth, and when the vibration issue gets worse I don't actually have to touch the brakes for it to happen, and replacing the rotors didn't change the problem)
- Warped rotors (because the rotor swap didn't change the problem)

My current working theory is:
- As the brakes / wheels / hubs get hot, something is developing some runout (wobble about the rotating axis), allowing the rotors to move slightly relative to the calipers. This wobble would explain the vibration.
- The wobble of the rotor relative to the caliper would then push the pistons of the calipers in slightly (pad knockback), which would explain the longer pedal travel after periods of not hitting the brakes.

But what I can't pinpoint is what component actually has the problem... I originally thought it was a problem with the brake rotors warping when they got hot, but I proactively got all 4 rotors replaced hoping it would resolve the issue, but the problem remains.

The only thing left I can think of that can cause rotor wobble relative to caliper is a wheel bearing problem: perhaps once a bad wheel bearing gets hot enough, it develops enough play to allow some runout, creating the vibration as well as the pad knockback (since the rotor and wheel are on one side of the bearing, and the upright and caliper are on the other).

But has anyone seen a wheel bearing issue on these cars that only shows up at high temperatures? The dealer is going to have a hell of a time tracking down such an issue, for obvious reasons...

Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any help!
Mech, are you running OEM or aftermarket brake set up?
Old 09-16-2018, 11:21 PM
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evilfij
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Never had it on a Porsche, but I agree wheel bearing is the most likely issue.
Old 09-17-2018, 12:12 AM
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Mech33
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Originally Posted by ipse dixit
Maybe bleed the brake lines?
Thanks. I forgot to mention in my write-up that I re-bled the brakes after the first track day where this started happening just in case it was air related. Same issue at the next track day... Air in the lines could explain a soft pedal, but I can't see how it explains the vibration that goes along with it.

Originally Posted by CobaltCr
Faulty brake booster or vacuum leak?
Thanks for the suggestion! Any thoughts on how that could manifest itself this way? I'm not that familiar with how the booster system works.

Originally Posted by 911therapy
Mech, are you running OEM or aftermarket brake set up?
Aftermarket. So if I can't figure it out, next step will be to take it back to stock and see if the problem goes away then... hoping to avoid that if possible, but I don't have much else to try.

Originally Posted by evilfij
Never had it on a Porsche, but I agree wheel bearing is the most likely issue.
Thanks. The trouble is the wheels and bearings don't show any play when the car is cold... I'd have to come off track HOT, then quickly jack the car up, and I'd maybe get to test one or two wheels before it cooled down. I tried that the last track day and maybe got one wheel checked before it cooled and didn't find anything. But later that day I isolated it to the drivers side of the car from the turning and braking experiment and didn't get a chance to do a hot pit check again before running out of time.
Old 09-17-2018, 12:17 AM
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911therapy
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sending you a PM now
Old 09-17-2018, 01:32 AM
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HenryPcar
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Brake fade does enhance the feeling of the brake pedal sinking because you press on it harder. The fact that after repeated heating cycle, you feel a vibration even without braking might be caused by a faulty tire. The tire might get out of round after heating up. Next time it happens, pull into the pit area, jack one corner up high enough that the wheel barely off the floor, then rotate it. If one area rubs on the floor, then you have a high spot. Do it on all 4 wheels to get an idea which one has the most our of round problem.
Old 09-17-2018, 01:54 AM
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hfm
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Wierd. Brake travel is usually brake fluid. Vibration is usually warped rotor. If you’ve already swapped rotors, safe to say you already swapped pads too? Maybe something loose with the calipers?

Go back to stock and see if it’s still going on is probably your best bet to diagnose.

Dan (should get back on a track)
Old 09-17-2018, 02:06 AM
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Mech33
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Originally Posted by HenryPcar
Brake fade does enhance the feeling of the brake pedal sinking because you press on it harder. The fact that after repeated heating cycle, you feel a vibration even without braking might be caused by a faulty tire. The tire might get out of round after heating up. Next time it happens, pull into the pit area, jack one corner up high enough that the wheel barely off the floor, then rotate it. If one area rubs on the floor, then you have a high spot. Do it on all 4 wheels to get an idea which one has the most our of round problem.
Thanks for the suggestion! Have you experienced this before? I didn’t consider a tire problem. Maybe with the tire vibration is bad enough, it can torque the hub and push the pads back? It seems like a stretch but maybe possible.
Old 09-17-2018, 08:56 AM
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Perimeter
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Boiled fluid, stuck caliper
Puck issue https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...-ceramics.html

Last edited by Perimeter; 09-17-2018 at 10:12 AM.
Old 09-17-2018, 09:49 AM
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Earlierapex
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Just some other thoughts: have you checked the caliper pucks? Also, check that the pad spring retainers are lined up just right. Also, what pad compound are you running, and are you sure it has a high enough temp rating?
Old 09-19-2018, 02:30 AM
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Mech33
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Thanks everyone for the advice, much appreciated. I plan to do a tear down this weekend to look over everything carefully. FYI I'm running Castrol SRF fluid.


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