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Double clutch or Single clutch?

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Old 07-11-2018, 01:49 AM
  #31  
FourT6and2
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Originally Posted by Dewinator


Did you just make that up based on one example? I know that clutches can last a long time if operated well but everyone I’ve always talked to still considers them a wear item. I feel like the dealership would know considering they change them out on a regular basis, unless you think they’re randomly replacing perfectly good clutches for no reason.
No, I didn't make it up. Yes, a clutch is considered a wear item. That said, modern clutches last a long time and you shouldn't be burning through a clutch in 60K miles unless you don't know how to drive a manual. Also, dealerships randomly replace perfectly good parts to make money. Fraud is rampant in the automotive industry. Just saw a video from a Porsche enthusiast documenting how the dealership wanted him to drop $15K on new PCCB rotors for the rear of the car. Turns out the dealership never even took the wheels off the car to inspect the brakes. And the rotors were simply loose from a broken bolt. But the dealership wanted him to replace the rotors and brake pads, which were all perfectly fine.
Old 07-11-2018, 02:59 AM
  #32  
R.Deacon
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Early cars had hand crank levers
sticking out the front hood for a means to crank up the engine to start
Astronauts used drink Tang
and so is double clutching part of history, unless your are still driving
a piece of history or a truck around
likely no need

Last edited by R.Deacon; 07-11-2018 at 03:52 AM.
Old 07-11-2018, 03:23 AM
  #33  
Mike Murphy
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Originally Posted by Dr.Bill
There is absolutely no need to double declutch a modern transmission.
Just heel & toe to rev match or use the auto-blipper if not able to accomplish on your own.
This. Also, I’ll point out the double clutching achieves the transmission input shaft spin-up twice when in fact rev marching achieves it once and faster. You can clutch once, rev match, then shift, achieving much of the benefit of double clutching by single-clutching.

Also, this business about clutches lasting the lifetime of the car is more about the driver than anything else. Brakes often have wear correlated as well. Wait until the last minute to brake hard at every stoplight, and your brakes will wear much faster. It only takes 10 mins to destroy of clutch if you want to.
Old 07-11-2018, 09:50 AM
  #34  
Dewinator
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
This. Also, I’ll point out the double clutching achieves the transmission input shaft spin-up twice when in fact rev marching achieves it once and faster. You can clutch once, rev match, then shift, achieving much of the benefit of double clutching by single-clutching.
I guess you’re getting the input shaft spinning, but I think it’s the sychros that are doing it when you single-cliutch, not the rev-match.
Old 07-11-2018, 09:59 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Dewinator


I guess you’re getting the input shaft spinning, but I think it’s the sychros that are doing it when you single-cliutch, not the rev-match.
Correct. The synchros are what get the gears spinning at the matching speed to engage the gear. The synchros rely mostly on oil friction (viscosity) do this. So a carefully driven transmission that’s had its oil/lube changed might not ever have to have synchros replaced. Synchro wear happens most often when the speed of the shift is faster than what the tranmssion would want.

EDIT: FYI - the gears in the transmission are actually always engaged, in all gears, spinning at the time whenever the driver wheels are spinning. Or when the engine is on and the clutch is released (even in neutral).
Old 07-11-2018, 11:44 AM
  #36  
FourT6and2
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978


This. Also, I’ll point out the double clutching achieves the transmission input shaft spin-up twice when in fact rev marching achieves it once and faster. You can clutch once, rev match, then shift, achieving much of the benefit of double clutching by single-clutching.

Also, this business about clutches lasting the lifetime of the car is more about the driver than anything else. Brakes often have wear correlated as well. Wait until the last minute to brake hard at every stoplight, and your brakes will wear much faster. It only takes 10 mins to destroy of clutch if you want to.
Yes, very much driver related. If somebody destroys their clutch in 10 minutes, they probably don't know how to drive a stick. If they destroy their clutch in 40K miles, they still probably don't know how to drive a stick. My previous car had 150K miles on it when I sold it and the clutch was still going strong. It wasn't a "race car" though. I doubt my GT3 will reach 100K miles. But if its clutch gives out at any point in the time I own it, I will be severely disappointed. Yes, it's a wear item. But it shouldn't be wearing out with normal use, even under extreme use on the street with a few track days here or there. I don't do burnouts and donuts and I don't drop the clutch for launch control at every stop sign.
Old 07-11-2018, 01:06 PM
  #37  
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Still, even if the clutch is designed to last 200k miles when operated correctly and my dealership was highly underestimating their expected lifespam, I wouldn’t consider that the life of the car.

Thanks to this thread, if I’m a passenger and the driver downshifts without double-clutching, I may no longer be thinking “they’re going to wear their transmission out” however I’ll still be thinking “they don’t know how to drive stick”. I don’t care if that just makes me an old geezer that doesn’t realize it’s not necessary anymore.
Old 07-11-2018, 01:22 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Dewinator
Still, even if the clutch is designed to last 200k miles when operated correctly and my dealership was highly underestimating their expected lifespam, I wouldn’t consider that the life of the car.

Thanks to this thread, if I’m a passenger and the driver downshifts without double-clutching, I may no longer be thinking “they’re going to wear their transmission out” however I’ll still be thinking “they don’t know how to drive stick”. I don’t care if that just makes me an old geezer that doesn’t realize it’s not necessary anymore.
Yeah, you're an old geezer Who would really waste time double clutching in a "race car"? You're trying to shave off seconds. And if people on this forum agonize over milliseconds in shift times between a PDK and manual, but now it's toooootally no problem to throw the car into neutral, let out the clutch, and then shift again... for each and every gear change? Such a strange bunch we are. Synchros were invented to people wouldn't have to do this nonsense.
Old 07-11-2018, 01:26 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by FourT6and2
Yeah, you're an old geezer Who would really waste time double clutching in a "race car"? You're trying to shave off seconds. And if people on this forum agonize over milliseconds in shift times between a PDK and manual, but now it's toooootally no problem to throw the car into neutral, let out the clutch, and then shift again... for each and every gear change? Such a strange bunch we are.
Well technically it’s just the downshifts and normally happens while braking at the same time so I don’t see why it would change your time at all. Completely unnecessary I get but I don’t see why it would slow you down.
Old 07-11-2018, 02:18 PM
  #40  
Earlierapex
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There's no need whatsoever to double clutch unless you have a 1942 packard. Here's why:
1) there are 3 different things potentially spinning at different speeds that you have to "match" in a trans: engine, input shaft and output shaft.
2) the output shaft is connected to the rear wheels and is "hardwired" - you can't change its speed.
3) the engine spins at whatever RPMs - you change the speed with the gas pedal when the clutch is in.
4) the input shaft is connected to the output shaft by the gear lever and it's connected to the engine by the clutch.

When you push in the clutch, the IP shaft is no longer connected to the engine. If you leave trans in gear, the IP shaft continues to spin because it's connect to the OP shaft. When you shift into neutral, it isn't connected to anything and slows down due to inertia. It's by itself. When you shift into a higher or lower gear, the synchros (think ring and cone) match the input shaft speed to the output shaft speed. Prior to 50 years ago, you had to double clutch because without synchros the gear teeth of IP and OP were at different speeds, so you would tear up the gears by trying to jam them together. You could solve this problem by letting the clutch out in neutral and reconnecting the IP to the engine, which would allow you to spin the IP faster and match the IP-OP gear speeds. Double clutching kept you from tearing up the gears as they tried to mesh at different speeds.

You aren't going to tear up/grind the gears now because the synchros match the IP-OP speeds, and trying to extend the life of your synchros is silly. They aren't under load when the clutch is in, so all they are doing is spinning up a free-wheeling IP shaft (a couple pounds maybe?). In fact, if we are going to engage in 10 sigma overthinking and you believe the 2lb freewheeling IP inertia is going to wear things out, you will probably wear out the clutch faster by doubling the number of times it has to create friction with the flywheel (this argument is admittedly equivalently silly).

besides, we all know that real men triple clutch
Old 07-11-2018, 02:25 PM
  #41  
ipse dixit
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Originally Posted by Earlierapex
There's no need whatsoever to double clutch unless you have a 1942 packard. Here's why:
1) there are 3 different things potentially spinning at different speeds that you have to "match" in a trans: engine, input shaft and output shaft.
2) the output shaft is connected to the rear wheels and is "hardwired" - you can't change its speed.
3) the engine spins at whatever RPMs - you change the speed with the gas pedal when the clutch is in.
4) the input shaft is connected to the output shaft by the gear lever and it's connected to the engine by the clutch.

When you push in the clutch, the IP shaft is no longer connected to the engine. If you leave trans in gear, the IP shaft continues to spin because it's connect to the OP shaft. When you shift into neutral, it isn't connected to anything and slows down due to inertia. It's by itself. When you shift into a higher or lower gear, the synchros (think ring and cone) match the input shaft speed to the output shaft speed. Prior to 50 years ago, you had to double clutch because without synchros the gear teeth of IP and OP were at different speeds, so you would tear up the gears by trying to jam them together. You could solve this problem by letting the clutch out in neutral and reconnecting the IP to the engine, which would allow you to spin the IP faster and match the IP-OP gear speeds. Double clutching kept you from tearing up the gears as they tried to mesh at different speeds.

You aren't going to tear up/grind the gears now because the synchros match the IP-OP speeds, and trying to extend the life of your synchros is silly. They aren't under load when the clutch is in, so all they are doing is spinning up a free-wheeling IP shaft (a couple pounds maybe?). In fact, if we are going to engage in 10 sigma overthinking and you believe the 2lb freewheeling IP inertia is going to wear things out, you will probably wear out the clutch faster by doubling the number of times it has to create friction with the flywheel (this argument is admittedly equivalently silly).

besides, we all know that real men PDK
FIFY.
Old 07-11-2018, 02:41 PM
  #42  
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This is awesome, it used to be that real drivers had to drive a manual and now not only do you have to have a 3 pedal car but also double clutch, all to be a "Better" driver, awesome. Next it'll have to be mounted on the steering column "3 in the Tree for me!"
Old 07-11-2018, 02:42 PM
  #43  
FourT6and2
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Originally Posted by Earlierapex
There's no need whatsoever to double clutch unless you have a 1942 packard. Here's why:
1) there are 3 different things potentially spinning at different speeds that you have to "match" in a trans: engine, input shaft and output shaft.
2) the output shaft is connected to the rear wheels and is "hardwired" - you can't change its speed.
3) the engine spins at whatever RPMs - you change the speed with the gas pedal when the clutch is in.
4) the input shaft is connected to the output shaft by the gear lever and it's connected to the engine by the clutch.

When you push in the clutch, the IP shaft is no longer connected to the engine. If you leave trans in gear, the IP shaft continues to spin because it's connect to the OP shaft. When you shift into neutral, it isn't connected to anything and slows down due to inertia. It's by itself. When you shift into a higher or lower gear, the synchros (think ring and cone) match the input shaft speed to the output shaft speed. Prior to 50 years ago, you had to double clutch because without synchros the gear teeth of IP and OP were at different speeds, so you would tear up the gears by trying to jam them together. You could solve this problem by letting the clutch out in neutral and reconnecting the IP to the engine, which would allow you to spin the IP faster and match the IP-OP gear speeds. Double clutching kept you from tearing up the gears as they tried to mesh at different speeds.

You aren't going to tear up/grind the gears now because the synchros match the IP-OP speeds, and trying to extend the life of your synchros is silly. They aren't under load when the clutch is in, so all they are doing is spinning up a free-wheeling IP shaft (a couple pounds maybe?). In fact, if we are going to engage in 10 sigma overthinking and you believe the 2lb freewheeling IP inertia is going to wear things out, you will probably wear out the clutch faster by doubling the number of times it has to create friction with the flywheel (this argument is admittedly equivalently silly).

besides, we all know that real men triple clutch
I like the cut of your dog gears.
Old 07-11-2018, 03:06 PM
  #44  
Earlierapex
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Originally Posted by race7117
This is awesome, it used to be that real drivers had to drive a manual and now not only do you have to have a 3 pedal car but also double clutch, all to be a "Better" driver, awesome. Next it'll have to be mounted on the steering column "3 in the Tree for me!"
actually, real drivers use drum brakes, magneto ignition and turn on their high beams with a button on the floor.
Old 07-12-2018, 07:24 AM
  #45  
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Real men start their engines with a hand crank, not an electric starter.


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