Have .2RS spring rates, now sway bars and shock valving..
06-18-2018, 11:59 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Have .2RS spring rates, now sway bars and shock valving..
Sorry this isn’t about ADM, CXX or paint correction but maybe someone knows how to solve this.
I have the spring rates of the .2RS on my .1RS.
(And DSC box, .2RS diffuser, 19” wheels with R7, 295F and 345R, -3.5F and -2.7R, CUP arms and castor pucks)
So the front of the car is super low, rear same = More rake, no understeer.
Home track is super bumpy Sebring.
It works OK at Sebring and I’m sure even better on all other tracks.
As a result I need to run the DSC box in PASM soft, it’s not quite off, but seems very similar to not having it.
I also had the best result with the anti-roll bars/sway bars full soft front and rear.
Im pretty sure that the .2RS has softer bars and different damper valving.
- Do the .2RS non WP bars fit on the .1RS? Part#? What’s different?
- What is the damping on the .2RS socks? Can they be fitted and programmed into the .1RS?
My socks could do with a refresh anyway, I figure, so I could also revalve the current ones.
Perhaps this is data we can get from Porsche or PET, or if not, how can I get the values?
I have the spring rates of the .2RS on my .1RS.
(And DSC box, .2RS diffuser, 19” wheels with R7, 295F and 345R, -3.5F and -2.7R, CUP arms and castor pucks)
So the front of the car is super low, rear same = More rake, no understeer.
Home track is super bumpy Sebring.
It works OK at Sebring and I’m sure even better on all other tracks.
As a result I need to run the DSC box in PASM soft, it’s not quite off, but seems very similar to not having it.
I also had the best result with the anti-roll bars/sway bars full soft front and rear.
Im pretty sure that the .2RS has softer bars and different damper valving.
- Do the .2RS non WP bars fit on the .1RS? Part#? What’s different?
- What is the damping on the .2RS socks? Can they be fitted and programmed into the .1RS?
My socks could do with a refresh anyway, I figure, so I could also revalve the current ones.
Perhaps this is data we can get from Porsche or PET, or if not, how can I get the values?
06-19-2018, 12:10 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Sorry this isn’t about ADM, CXX or paint correction but maybe someone knows how to solve this.
I have the spring rates of the .2RS on my .1RS.
(And DSC box, .2RS diffuser, 19” wheels with R7, 295F and 345R, -3.5F and -2.7R, CUP arms and castor pucks)
So the front of the car is super low, rear same = More rake, no understeer.
Home track is super bumpy Sebring.
It works OK at Sebring and I’m sure even better on all other tracks.
As a result I need to run the DSC box in PASM soft, it’s not quite off, but seems very similar to not having it.
I also had the best result with the anti-roll bars/sway bars full soft front and rear.
Im pretty sure that the .2RS has softer bars and different damper valving.
- Do the .2RS non WP bars fit on the .1RS? Part#? What’s different?
- What is the damping on the .2RS socks? Can they be fitted and programmed into the .1RS?
My socks could do with a refresh anyway, I figure, so I could also revalve the current ones.
Perhaps this is data we can get from Porsche or PET, or if not, how can I get the values?
I have the spring rates of the .2RS on my .1RS.
(And DSC box, .2RS diffuser, 19” wheels with R7, 295F and 345R, -3.5F and -2.7R, CUP arms and castor pucks)
So the front of the car is super low, rear same = More rake, no understeer.
Home track is super bumpy Sebring.
It works OK at Sebring and I’m sure even better on all other tracks.
As a result I need to run the DSC box in PASM soft, it’s not quite off, but seems very similar to not having it.
I also had the best result with the anti-roll bars/sway bars full soft front and rear.
Im pretty sure that the .2RS has softer bars and different damper valving.
- Do the .2RS non WP bars fit on the .1RS? Part#? What’s different?
- What is the damping on the .2RS socks? Can they be fitted and programmed into the .1RS?
My socks could do with a refresh anyway, I figure, so I could also revalve the current ones.
Perhaps this is data we can get from Porsche or PET, or if not, how can I get the values?
I suggest you reach out to the Porsche master tech that was at Smokies? Lmk if you want his contact info.
06-19-2018, 12:33 AM
#4
Very interested to learn what you find. I have not seen a PET for the .2 yet, but I would bet on those shocks being mechanically compatible with the .1. They will absolutely be re-valved, and I would agree you want that calving. Luckily they are not too expensive if the price mirrors the .1.
If I were you I’d also look into the new Hoosier 20s. They have a larger OD and should bring the front roll center height back up closer to the design point. Between that and other small effects (brake bias, contact patch, rolling diameter over bumps) I think you’d find them a little faster.
If anyone has a PET link I might be able to help with the sway bars, but from what I’ve read I’d agree there too- they’re likely slightly softer. On most tracks you probably wouldn’t want them with Hoosiers, which need significantly stiffer suspension in general. For Sebring however you might.
My educated guess says to do shocks first, wheels 2nd and sway bars last.
If I were you I’d also look into the new Hoosier 20s. They have a larger OD and should bring the front roll center height back up closer to the design point. Between that and other small effects (brake bias, contact patch, rolling diameter over bumps) I think you’d find them a little faster.
If anyone has a PET link I might be able to help with the sway bars, but from what I’ve read I’d agree there too- they’re likely slightly softer. On most tracks you probably wouldn’t want them with Hoosiers, which need significantly stiffer suspension in general. For Sebring however you might.
My educated guess says to do shocks first, wheels 2nd and sway bars last.
06-19-2018, 12:35 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Sean,
Probably more chance to get an answer from him than from AP ;-)
Thanks.
Not much hope to get a response from either unless I find another 999,800 Youtube subscribers, but worth a try.
Maybe I need to start tracking sideways Tokyo Drift like with the wing on fire and a naked slutty model in the passenger seat to get an actual .2RS
Probably more chance to get an answer from him than from AP ;-)
Thanks.
Not much hope to get a response from either unless I find another 999,800 Youtube subscribers, but worth a try.
Maybe I need to start tracking sideways Tokyo Drift like with the wing on fire and a naked slutty model in the passenger seat to get an actual .2RS
06-19-2018, 12:36 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
How about the full,active tractive setup? Or onlins.....
06-19-2018, 12:42 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Very interested to learn what you find. I have not seen a PET for the .2 yet, but I would bet on those shocks being mechanically compatible with the .1. They will absolutely be re-valved, and I would agree you want that calving. Luckily they are not too expensive if the price mirrors the .1.
If I were you I’d also look into the new Hoosier 20s. They have a larger OD and should bring the front roll center height back up closer to the design point. Between that and other small effects (brake bias, contact patch, rolling diameter over bumps) I think you’d find them a little faster.
If anyone has a PET link I might be able to help with the sway bars, but from what I’ve read I’d agree there too- they’re likely slightly softer. On most tracks you probably wouldn’t want them with Hoosiers, which need significantly stiffer suspension in general. For Sebring however you might.
My educated guess says to do shocks first, wheels 2nd and sway bars last.
If I were you I’d also look into the new Hoosier 20s. They have a larger OD and should bring the front roll center height back up closer to the design point. Between that and other small effects (brake bias, contact patch, rolling diameter over bumps) I think you’d find them a little faster.
If anyone has a PET link I might be able to help with the sway bars, but from what I’ve read I’d agree there too- they’re likely slightly softer. On most tracks you probably wouldn’t want them with Hoosiers, which need significantly stiffer suspension in general. For Sebring however you might.
My educated guess says to do shocks first, wheels 2nd and sway bars last.
I think I like the higher 19” sidewall and the big drop in ride height front.
Allows the splitter to be on the asphalt under braking and 295 width. More rake, no more understeer transformed the car.
Shorter gearing also helps a lot.
But you could very well be right, I’d try back to back but buying a set of 20” goes a bit too far.
If the shocks would work, new or revalve mine would be a no brainer @ 30K hard miles.
Sway bars last, but if they fit and the shocks match, why not?
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06-19-2018, 12:48 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
I get it. I found w ttx it took me a day to get them right. Then i only twist ***** 1 or 2 clicks for each track. They are very consistent. And so plush on bumpy bits
06-19-2018, 12:53 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
I would think your DSC box is still superior to the two-mode version of the .2RS. The shocks are very likely exactly the same, just re-valved and PASM re-calibrated to handle the higher spring rates, similar to what your DSC already does.
Peter, at this point, instead of chasing swaybars, or going after stock dampers, if you want to handle bumpy tracks you would be best served going with something like an Ohlins TTX setup. They have high speed and low speed control built in, so crazy good over bumps. No need to be suspension guru to make these work. My Bilstein clubsports are better than stock GT3 shocks, and even at full soft, they are still nowhere near as compliant as my TTX. It's next level stuff. You don't have to turn ***** all the time, I've left mine in "track" settings and the car rides great on the street. Because they are so compliant, there is no need to soften swaybars.
PSI in Cali can talk to you more about them, ask for Beau Kelley. Entire setup, including PASM delete wiring harness is very reasonable $$.
Peter, at this point, instead of chasing swaybars, or going after stock dampers, if you want to handle bumpy tracks you would be best served going with something like an Ohlins TTX setup. They have high speed and low speed control built in, so crazy good over bumps. No need to be suspension guru to make these work. My Bilstein clubsports are better than stock GT3 shocks, and even at full soft, they are still nowhere near as compliant as my TTX. It's next level stuff. You don't have to turn ***** all the time, I've left mine in "track" settings and the car rides great on the street. Because they are so compliant, there is no need to soften swaybars.
PSI in Cali can talk to you more about them, ask for Beau Kelley. Entire setup, including PASM delete wiring harness is very reasonable $$.
06-19-2018, 12:55 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
06-19-2018, 01:11 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hmm, this car only has about a year of track duty left, so I have to see about cost and resale, unless of course I can swap them onto a new .2RS.
So those just ignore PASM and it’s plug and play?
I thought the new shocks are pretty good, but I just don’t know enough about them. Rally style shock setup works really well at Sebring though.
So those just ignore PASM and it’s plug and play?
I thought the new shocks are pretty good, but I just don’t know enough about them. Rally style shock setup works really well at Sebring though.
06-19-2018, 01:11 AM
#13
Thanks Pete, I have no idea what the .1RS shocks cost, can you give me rough idea?
I think I like the higher 19” sidewall and the big drop in ride height front.
Allows the splitter to be on the asphalt under braking and 295 width. More rake, no more understeer transformed the car.
Shorter gearing also helps a lot.
But you could very well be right, I’d try back to back but buying a set of 20” goes a bit too far.
If the shocks would work, new or revalve mine would be a no brainer @ 30K hard miles.
Sway bars last, but if they fit and the shocks match, why not?
With the 295s your rake issues on the 19s might not be too bad.
Typically spring rate and grip go hand in hand. You tune the car for a certain total amount of lean/ camber loss, etc. As grip and hence Gs go up you counter that with more total spring rate. Your Hoosiers are not producing cup car grip levels but they are not too far off, certainly more than what Porsche designed the .2 for. So adding a stiffer sway-bar to the .2 package could be just what the doctor ordered for Hoosiers, you just happen to have them already. Typically the shocks are optimized for the primary springs over the swaybars anyway, so the shock valving should still work well. One thing’s for sure- you won’t go far wrong if you can copy that package. Very highly developed beyond what the aftermarket can practically do assuming your mission is the same as Porsche’s.
