Light Weight Battery for .2 GT3???
#121
Qbix, I'm all for the Customer having options.... but just put out good data if you are going to throw out a comment. You say the Liteblox can save 22Kg. But 22kg is 48.5 lbs.... which is actually more weight than the stock Lead/Acid Battery in 991 which is 45lbs .... not sure how your getting NEGATIVE weight from changing a Battery.
Also the battery you are recommending.... the least expensive and lightest Liteblox is only 7.5 REAL Ah that costs MORE than our RS-30 which has 30 Real Ah. But then we have the ATX12-HD-RS.... which would beat up on the Liteblox with 3 more REAL Ah, about 80 more Cranking Amps at 75% less cost and you can actually buy it NOW in the USA.... and if you didn't like it or had a warranty claim could call us and get it dealt with immediately. Liteblox, last I saw, didn't have a Distributor in the USA. Also the Bluetooth thing while cool sounding has an issue, but that is for another thread.
Also the battery you are recommending.... the least expensive and lightest Liteblox is only 7.5 REAL Ah that costs MORE than our RS-30 which has 30 Real Ah. But then we have the ATX12-HD-RS.... which would beat up on the Liteblox with 3 more REAL Ah, about 80 more Cranking Amps at 75% less cost and you can actually buy it NOW in the USA.... and if you didn't like it or had a warranty claim could call us and get it dealt with immediately. Liteblox, last I saw, didn't have a Distributor in the USA. Also the Bluetooth thing while cool sounding has an issue, but that is for another thread.
OEM battery 22,4kg
OEM bracket 1,4kg
With litebox you still save 21,1kg total.
I don't know about their bluetooth functionality but they state they have circuits to protect battery from low voltage.
#122
Burning Brakes
@Antigravity: Thanks immesenly for all the detailed information. Count me in for the Group By, and yes I would prefer the Black Aluminum mount, but otherwise Raw Aluminum is fine. By the way, my RS is GT Silver as well, they are very rare.
I have been using Lithium batteries since 2005 in some of my cars. It is very important to keep the battery reserve capacity (Ah) realistic, instead of the advertisement of higher Ah that are not achievable.
Before Lithium, I was a consumer of Odyssey PC680 (a 13Ah battery), PC925, and their cheaper Lead-Acid batteries they were made from (I can't recall the generic brand). Always carried a jump starter as more often than not they would be fully discharged.
On Lithium, from my 3 purchases: Braille, LithiumPros and the factory 2011 Porsche 997 GT3 RS (pictured above), only my Porsche battery is alive and well. The Braille died, the Lithium Pros died, none of these dead weights had an electronic circuit and logic to protect them from a full discharge (what you call a Battery Management System).
My Porsche Lithium battery has been used in my 997 GT3 RS, my 987 Cayman S, my 991.1 Carrera S, my 991.1 Turbo S and my 991.1 GT3 RS. Porsche prints the real capacity reserve on this battery at 18Ah.
In my 991.1 GT3 RS the battery lasts 9 days before no longer startng the car. In my 991.1 Turbo S it only lasts 6 days (this car has massive static loads when not running, no idea why). In both my 991.1 GT3RS and 991.1 Turbo S I have Rear Wheel Steering (RWS). RWS uses a lot of battery power, as the alternator doesn't supply enough power to juice the system, RWS is especially taxing on the battery when the car is on a track day, yet my Porsche Lithium 18Ah battery has not failed when driving in these demanding scenarios..
I weighed the stock battery in my 991.1 Turbo S, it is 58.6 lbs. My Porsche Lithium battery is only 11.3 lbs, I have yet to weigh the stock 991.1 GT3RS battery. The Porsche Lithium battery is a direct bolt-on, so if your mounting bracket for the RS-30 has the dimensions for the 991.1 GT3 RS stock battery, pretty much your RS-30 will fit every Boxster/Cayman made since 1997 and every 911 made since 1999, this is a gigantic market rather than the 991 GT3 maket, think 300+ times bigger.
My Porsche Lithium battery is the first generation, they came out with the 2nd generation (picture already in this thread) with a different case to not have to bend cables, but more importantly the improved BMS. When my 1st gen Lithium battery from Porsche was released, they were a few warranty claims of melted Porsche batteries, no fires though. Keep in mind that Lead-Acid batteries can fail as well and melt, and burn.
In the 1st gen battery, when the reserve capacity is getting low, the battery starts beeping, the beep is audible from outside despite of the battery being under plastic covers and inside the front trunk. Once the battery does not beep anymore, it gets to 0 vols, I guess it leaves a little reserve to not overdischarge, and my CTEK Battery Tender brings it to life again after a few hours, I have done this dozens of times. I don't use this battery daily, only for competitive events.
I'm not sure, but I gues that the 1st gen Porsche Lithium failures could have been related to people plugging incorrect battery chargers or incorrect battery tenders on cars sitting for a long period of time in storage, with these tenders/chargers not being comptible with the Porsche Lithium battery. IIRC the 987.2 Boxster Spyder, 997.2 GT3 RS and 987.2 Cayman R were the only cars to offer this battery as an option. This battery was a $3,000 part 7 years ago.
Your RS-30 has almost twice the reserve capacity of my Porsche Lithium battery, so I should be able to leave the car 15 days on it and still be able to start it. I will measure that once I get your RS-30. My main problem is that the maximum time I did not start/drive the RS was 9 days, and missing 15 days of RS time is no longer practical, feasible or desirable.
It would be helpful for a RS-30 v2.0 to incliude a beep and a LED bulb that flashes when the battery is getting close to the shutdown level. My Porsche 1st Gen Lithium has the Red LED and audible beep when it is going low. I don't like to be plugging a car every day on a battery tender.
v3.0: wireless charging???
#123
Race Director
#124
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Do spring rates actually work that way? This is a legitimate question, I'm not trying to argue or anything. I can put a suitcase in the trunk of my car and watch it sag down 1/4". Doesn't need to be a 200-pound suitcase.
I don't mean to derail the thread; I guess I'll find out for sure when I get a lighter battery
I don't mean to derail the thread; I guess I'll find out for sure when I get a lighter battery
Remember that if 32 pounds of battery weight caused a 1/4" ride height change, then filling an empty fuel tank would cause over 1.25" of ride height change (hint: I'd be shocked if it did).
Last edited by GrantG; 04-18-2018 at 01:00 PM.
#125
Pro
Yes, that's how spring rates work. Go ahead and load up your trunk and report back (reminder that the trunk is fore of the battery and fuel tank, so will have a bigger effect than battery or fuel weight).
Remember that if 32 pounds of battery weight caused a 1/4" ride height change, then filling an empty fuel tank would cause over 1.25" of ride height change (hint: I'd be shocked if it did).
Remember that if 32 pounds of battery weight caused a 1/4" ride height change, then filling an empty fuel tank would cause over 1.25" of ride height change (hint: I'd be shocked if it did).
Best Regards,
Dave
#126
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Is it the newer one? Like in the pictures above? Can you give details like the weight of it and any Stickers on it? Also check the voltage on it? Just good data for me to know. How long have you owned it? Depending how long you owned it you might want to put it on a charger. It should be at around 13.2 but depending on their BMS it might drawing on it.
#128
Burning Brakes
I did some testing for Scott, and his little ATX-30 battery (little brother to the RS-30) with 20Ah has run great in my car for a number of months with 5 track days and a trip to Austin. I even let it sit for 4 complete weeks with only opening the doors once a week and rolling the car to prevent flat spots on the tires. The entire time I monitored the voltage and it only dropped from 13.30 to 13.13 on a 2014 Cayman S. No where near thinking of shutting down. Started perfect on first turn after its nap.
The RS-30 has 50 percent more Ah, so it would probably last a few months in my car. I think Scott's tech and quality of battery cells is on the next level compared to anything else out there right now. I don't think anyone is going to see a shut down battery in a week or so. At any rate, just my observations to share here on the forum. When everyone gets their batteries, we will have a lot more data points to discuss in how they work in each persons particular model of Porsche.
The RS-30 has 50 percent more Ah, so it would probably last a few months in my car. I think Scott's tech and quality of battery cells is on the next level compared to anything else out there right now. I don't think anyone is going to see a shut down battery in a week or so. At any rate, just my observations to share here on the forum. When everyone gets their batteries, we will have a lot more data points to discuss in how they work in each persons particular model of Porsche.
#129
Rennlist Member
Great thread. I have used Odyssey PC925s extensively and recently got a Voltphreaks VPH to try in my 997.1 GT3. What attracted me to the Odyssey is a) the small form factor means I can standardize around a single battery (ie it fits in any car); b) a lightweight battery swap is pretty much the most efficient kg / $ weight reduction; c) they can sit on a shelf for years without needing a charge so you can keep a spare on hand and d) they've been reliable (at least for me...YMMV).
These lithium units seem similar benefit wise. Still, the melt-down hazard is the one aspect that has kept me from going all-in (google any of the brands + "exploded" and there are early adopter mishaps). Totally understand that these newer batteries have protections the prior ones did not but what kind of testing ensures the protections are actually reliable over the life of the unit?
Also curious how the "Thermal Protection" on your RS30 works. Thats the one feature that Voltphreaks doesn't list. Can it stop a thermal run-away? What does it do and how high is there a specific temp it kicks in at?
Thanks for all the great info on this thread.
These lithium units seem similar benefit wise. Still, the melt-down hazard is the one aspect that has kept me from going all-in (google any of the brands + "exploded" and there are early adopter mishaps). Totally understand that these newer batteries have protections the prior ones did not but what kind of testing ensures the protections are actually reliable over the life of the unit?
Also curious how the "Thermal Protection" on your RS30 works. Thats the one feature that Voltphreaks doesn't list. Can it stop a thermal run-away? What does it do and how high is there a specific temp it kicks in at?
Thanks for all the great info on this thread.
#131
Rennlist Member
I’m in for the group buy, although my .2 doesn’t arrive for 6 months.
Which brings up another question to the Antigravity representative. What is the expected life of these batteries (assuming mild-moderate use of the car, (2000-8000 miles per year)?
I will likely keep my .2 GT3 for 10 years. Will your battery be durable for 10 years? Any warranty to that effect?
Which brings up another question to the Antigravity representative. What is the expected life of these batteries (assuming mild-moderate use of the car, (2000-8000 miles per year)?
I will likely keep my .2 GT3 for 10 years. Will your battery be durable for 10 years? Any warranty to that effect?
Last edited by Drifting; 04-19-2018 at 09:15 PM.
#132
Race Car
I did some testing for Scott, and his little ATX-30 battery (little brother to the RS-30) with 20Ah has run great in my car for a number of months with 5 track days and a trip to Austin. I even let it sit for 4 complete weeks with only opening the doors once a week and rolling the car to prevent flat spots on the tires. The entire time I monitored the voltage and it only dropped from 13.30 to 13.13 on a 2014 Cayman S. No where near thinking of shutting down. Started perfect on first turn after its nap.
The RS-30 has 50 percent more Ah, so it would probably last a few months in my car. I think Scott's tech and quality of battery cells is on the next level compared to anything else out there right now. I don't think anyone is going to see a shut down battery in a week or so. At any rate, just my observations to share here on the forum. When everyone gets their batteries, we will have a lot more data points to discuss in how they work in each persons particular model of Porsche.
The RS-30 has 50 percent more Ah, so it would probably last a few months in my car. I think Scott's tech and quality of battery cells is on the next level compared to anything else out there right now. I don't think anyone is going to see a shut down battery in a week or so. At any rate, just my observations to share here on the forum. When everyone gets their batteries, we will have a lot more data points to discuss in how they work in each persons particular model of Porsche.
Thanks!
#133
this is a good thread !!! save weight
#134
Question for Antigravity: how does the Restart feature not leave one stranded if the access to the battery is still requires power? My concern would be:
1) Battery drains from car sitting too long.
2) Antigravity battery goes into "Restart" feature mode where it disconnects from the car's electrical system to prevent further discharge, waiting for user to press the Restart button.
3) User tries to even unlock the car, and it's totally dead since the battery is essentially disconnected... so user gets their key and manually unlocks the car. But they still can't pop the hood since there is no power... yes one can try and manually apply power to the fuse panel connections to allow the hood to pop, but who is carrying around that emergency battery always charged up?
So how do you get around this scenario?
1) Battery drains from car sitting too long.
2) Antigravity battery goes into "Restart" feature mode where it disconnects from the car's electrical system to prevent further discharge, waiting for user to press the Restart button.
3) User tries to even unlock the car, and it's totally dead since the battery is essentially disconnected... so user gets their key and manually unlocks the car. But they still can't pop the hood since there is no power... yes one can try and manually apply power to the fuse panel connections to allow the hood to pop, but who is carrying around that emergency battery always charged up?
So how do you get around this scenario?
#135
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Question for Antigravity: how does the Restart feature not leave one stranded if the access to the battery is still requires power? My concern would be:
1) Battery drains from car sitting too long.
2) Antigravity battery goes into "Restart" feature mode where it disconnects from the car's electrical system to prevent further discharge, waiting for user to press the Restart button.
3) User tries to even unlock the car, and it's totally dead since the battery is essentially disconnected... so user gets their key and manually unlocks the car. But they still can't pop the hood since there is no power... yes one can try and manually apply power to the fuse panel connections to allow the hood to pop, but who is carrying around that emergency battery always charged up?
So how do you get around this scenario?
1) Battery drains from car sitting too long.
2) Antigravity battery goes into "Restart" feature mode where it disconnects from the car's electrical system to prevent further discharge, waiting for user to press the Restart button.
3) User tries to even unlock the car, and it's totally dead since the battery is essentially disconnected... so user gets their key and manually unlocks the car. But they still can't pop the hood since there is no power... yes one can try and manually apply power to the fuse panel connections to allow the hood to pop, but who is carrying around that emergency battery always charged up?
So how do you get around this scenario?
Porsche battery management in the car is really advanced. These cars don’t just sit and drain batteries. He already indicated the car can sit for 2 months without a battery tender and had no issues with starting.
Not trying to be arguementative here but these issues are addressed with keeping the car on a tender. My cars with normal batteries stay on them as they get driven intermittently. It is a matter of preventative maintenance.
I also think many people confuse the fact that the form factor size of the Li batteries correlates to reserve power. Not the case.
Chris.