Rib Feast

drdonger

TexasPorschelover

Antigravity

I can say it isn't A123, nor Samsung, nor is it a 18650 or 26650 format cell for those who know a little about lithium. We bailed on A123 over 2.5 years ago because their M1 26650 cell just wasn't very resilient and was too senstive to over-charge and over-discharge though with a good BMS they are an ok format... Last they were stupidly expensive for a cell that at one time 5 years ago was the best... but we get better battery cells now that are more advanced, have a higher C-Rate (more cranking power), are more stable and finally way less costly to build the cell pack that is inside they battery. How do I know that.... because I lived with those A123 cells for 5 years, and I was so happy to get away from them...

The industry has moved on big time and there are about 5 really good cell makers now... but unfortunately (or fotunately) there are 200 crappy cell makers that are producing low quality cells and blowing them out on the Trader sites. but it's all China all the way now...... A123 was the last real USA Battery Cell Manufacturer, but they were bought out by a Chinese Company when they went bankrupt (research Fiskar/A123)... but that does not mean the quality is bad.... China just has all the factories now, and if you use the good ones they are doing the best cells. But that is the problem in China... they make the best and the worst. Super dangerous to deal with them if you don't know yiour market. Hi levels of lying and deciet.. but very good with the right companies.

Antigravity

The Turbos are easier motors to turn over actually..... what I mean is Turbos are lower compression motors than hi-performance non-turbo motors....becuase the non-turbos need Higher compression as part of the equation to get more power, so that creates a harder motor to turn over. So it an easier turn over for a Turbo... but yours is 10 Cylinders so that does create a little more drag, but to get to the point the RS-30 would easily RIP START your V-10. Keep in mind this battery flips 900 Horsepower Trophey Truck Motors easily... and I am saying these are highly built, large Cubic inch, Hi--Compression V8 Motors. So I'm NEVER worried about the Cranking ability of the RS-30... it has unreal cranking ability.

My only concerns for the RS-30 in any Street use Sport Car or Passenger Car is that the fitment is easy and works without modification tothe Car. When its used in Racing I'm not remotely concerned, those guys put it in the cab, or make a mount in the engine bay. But for nice Sport Cars fabrication isn't an option so I want to make trays or other mounts that will work as easy or easier than stock would since it is a physically smaller battery. My overall point being I'm not worried about the RS-30's performance in any Sport Car... I'm more concerned about fitting it.

Last for the R8 can you send me some pictures of your battery mounting and tell me the size battery.. I see the H6 battery (aka Group 48) and/or H7 for the R8.... so I would like to clarify that. Additionally if you show me a picture of the R8 Battery and how it's installed I can see if it mounted like the Porsche on the bottom footer (cleat) or if its a Top Mount that has the bar going over the top of he battery. Keep in mind if its like the Porsche the same battery tray will work. And if you have a top mount you may not even need a tray. Also note that many manufacturers will use the same type of mounting system and same battery size across many vehicles so they can order LESS different parts meaning why have 6 different battery sizes across the VW, Audi Porsches platforms when you can use the H6 and H7 size and design most the cars with just a few sizes that fit all the cars across many lines. Email me any pics or info about the R8 Battery install to scott@antigravitybatteries.com. thx

Vento_aaa

In for group buy w/ mount (black) and charger. GT4.

FourT6and2

Any issues in a car with a dashcam that has parking mode? For example, one that stays on when car is off, but automatically shuts off when it sees voltage get down to 12v.

Antigravity

Potentially yes... it not due to any fault of the battery... it has to do with the additional Parasitic Draw these aftermarket accessories draw. I actually have a Customer with a Turbo right now who has a Camera that they leave on all the time. So the Customer stated the battery put itself to sleep one morning and that also the battery seemed like it was more sluggish in its start attempts... But this type of thing makes it very hard for us to make a determination on because we are chasing gremlins for Aftermarket Accessories which we have not tested for. We don't know the level of Parasitic drain they are creating, or how they were connected to the Car. In his situation I think he keeps the Camera on all the time for potential Theft issues. But my point is something is creating a very fast parasitic drain so he is compiling some data for me and checking voltages and taking out fuses to see what is happening. But this is the first time I have heard this.

So your question give me the perfect opportunity to spout some information and make some things clear....

1- This Battery is a Lightweight Lithium-Ion Battery with 30 Amp hours. 30 Amp hours is much less than the 70Ah of stock a lead-acid battery. So that has to be a consideration if you have or are adding any devices to your system that draw extra energy while the car is not running. Some items will create a higher Parasitic draw and some of these have a substantial Parasitic draw ( I will go into that below). What I can say is that we have had no issues in the STOCK Porsches that are years 2014 and forward for sitting up to 6-8 weeks in the car and not needing a charger connected. That is sort of the Baseline we are aiming for... 6 weeks sitting in a Car with no charger. But actually I think the RS-30 can get 2 months of just sitting and staying charged (stock vehicles not additional aftermarket electronics).... again that is in the newer 2014 Porsches because they have a great sleep mode that really has a low Parasitic draw. We have also tested in Mustangs, Challengers, Vipers etc... and no issues for roughly 6 weeks.... BUT not many of our tests are of vehicles sitting longer than 4 weeks because usually the guys are driving their cars. So I only have about 5 cars that have actually not been driven for 6 weeks and just sat and the voltages stay in the 13v range which is great.

2- Once you add aftermarket electronics to your car I can't give you good accurate information anymore....because I don't know what the draw is of these electronics, and secondly often times they are not installed into the car correctly by the installers. Meaning they just hook them up at times without regard to it being on a keyed switch, or a non-key switch which can be on a circuit that does not go into a sleep mode then they just keep drawing energy from the battery. We test in stock vehicles for the most part so we can understand what is happening exactly for that model car.

3- I just want to make clear to everyone the realities of the RS-30. My intention is NOT to oversell the product and deviate from the realities. The fact is with the RS-30 you are reducing overall Amp Hours compared to your stock Lead/Acid battery, and we intend the battery as a Lightweight Performance Car Battery and it kicks butt for that use. If you have these aftermarket accessories that can create an additional parasitic draw on the battery we will not be able to give you clear hard data on the time it will last when the car is sitting, and you might need a lithium Maintainer connected for periods where you do not drive often. We test in stock vehicles systems that don't have aftermarket accessories tied into them that create additional draws. But what I will do is let you guys know how this one with the Turbo is doing and if anyone else comes up with an issue with the battery. So far we have gotten great feedback and I haven't heard much yet on any issues regarding over-discharge except for the Turbo I mentioned above.

FourT6and2

Understood, thanks.

In my specific situation, I'm not looking to leave a camera running for a long period of time. Only in situations where the car is parked in a public place, for example while at a restaurant. Or when at a gas station. Or in a parking lot. So like 2 - 6 hours. When the car is parked in my garage or for an extended period of time, the camera is turned completely off. "Parking Mode" on dashcams keeps the camera running when the car is parked, either for a set period of time or until the battery voltage reaches a preset threshold, for example 12.5 volts, and then the camera is switched off.

Most dashcams draw about 0.3 - 0.5 amps.

And they are usually attached to the fuse box on a non-switched tap so the camera can operate in "park mode" when the car is off. I know every product is different. But that's really all the info I know. Again, not talking about leaving a camera running for 2 days or 2 weeks. More like a few hours.

SCCAForums

Are we getting a group buy going or should we just reach out individually to purchase?

Do we have the battery brackets in black?

Best Regards,
Dave

Antigravity

In that circumstance I don't think you will have any problem at all, for example the last couple days what I have done as some additional testing on a relatively high amp load on the Battery while it is in the GT3. What I do is take a 55w Car Front Light that I bought at AutoZone.... Soldered some leads on to it with alligator clips and while it's in my GT three I attach it to the battery itself.... This way I can create a high and fast parasitic draw on the battery. I'm using a watt meter and it shows a 5.2A draw. The last few days I just do about and hour on the battery just to bump it down to a lower voltage before the sleep mode to test the starting performance after a long high load... there been not issue nor did I expect one, but this just gives an idea that I'm running 55 W 5.2A on the battery for an hour and I'm still in the 13.1 range. So you'll be drawing much much lower than that so you'll be able to do that easily many hours at a time....

Antigravity

We will be doing a group buy... I am only waiting on the battery trays.... Which unfortunately I don't have complete control over because it is the machine shop that has the parts in production but they also had a few jobs before mine.

But what I can tell you is this morning they sent me a schedule of production and stated that they can have the non-anodized billet color aluminum pieces ready as of May 12th...then the colored anodized ones as of May 20th. But keep in mind the shipping may take 3 to 4 days from Midwest to Los Angeles, and I have to make a simple packaging for them... which is another roughly day or two. But for those who want it quick we can just simply wrap the Aluminum parts in paper for protection and get them out.

Also, I will have pricing and post it up Monday for the Kits complete and give the three options below.

Battery, Tray Kit, Charger
Battery , Tray Kit , no Charger

Then if anyone wants any deviation on that we can put that together.

Joe Weinstein

Am I correct to think that the battery swap is an easy DIY, by plugging in a smart charger to one of the power sockets so the car doesn't lose any programming while the battery is briefly disconnected?

FourT6and2

Man it's 2018, don't cars these days have non-volatile memory so things like settings/programming don't get erased when you cut power?

GiuseppeM