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I have these but uninstalled as of yet. I’ll wait to hear about the proper proceedure for door open/closed before battery disconnect - and likelihood of code issue on an MT car. Car is far from dealer and don’t want the hassle.
You'll be fine. Doors open. Key out. Disconnect the negative terminal of battery. Dude if disconnecting the battery caused a CEL on a car, the manufacturer would be ****ed.
All: You really don't need to disconnect the battery. Just make sure the key isn't in the ignition at all. I've done this twice now and didn't disconnect battery either time (and didn't get a fault code or CEL either time). First install was on a 991.2 GT3 (MT) and the second install was on a 991.2 RS.
I pulled my seat out the other day for the window tint guy. I did not pull the battery, but left the key in the house so it didn't register. Worked fine and no CEL.
I followed SocalTouring instructions (thank you!) and installed them without removing the seats, the fire extinguisher mount made it even tighter but it took me 30 mins per seat. The brackets fit like a glove and I was impressed with the quality.
Any concerns about the bolts that TrackSpec supplies having threads all the way through that are in contact with the factory seat arm bushing?
Wouldn’t those threads place extra wear on the bushing?
Also is the bolt supplied on the bottom attachment long enough to engage the nylon locking mechanism? In the web site photo the bolt is too short and doesn’t meet the end of the nut and doesn’t appear to touch the nylon.
Called TrackSpec twice and spoke to a guy who said he could help but it seemed he really didn’t understand (maybe wasn’t qualified) to answer these questions. Didn’t really make any progress in trying to understand.
I assume it’s better to have a bolt that has a smooth flange section (no threads) that passes through where the factory bushing is located, and then the threads start after the contact with the bushing - and should engage the entire nut.
Any help or added photos is appreciated.
NOTE: edited to correct terminology (flange = smooth section on bolt, and bushing instead of bearing)
Last edited by needmoregarage; 05-24-2019 at 03:03 PM.
My shop installed these this week and didn't make a comment about any of those concerns. I will say that the seat angle is quite nice, and I didn't have a problem with the OEM angle.
I’m very interested in this product but have concerns that the threads that run through the flange where the factory bushing is located - will prematurely wear the bushing surface that is part of the factory seat arm. The threads (on a microscopic level) come to a “point” and if the seat is moved and adjusted on a regular basis - there is potential for the threads to wear the inside surface of the bushing. The factory bolt has a machined flange that is smooth where it contacts the bushing.
I assume the factory bolt isn’t long enough to fully engage through the thickness of the TrackSpec parts.
Their kit re-uses the factory bolt with flange so the bolt-bushing connection remains as designed by the factory.
I’m assuming it’s long enough to span the gap properly.
The other bolt is long enough to fully engage the Nyloc nut. Their photos haven’t been updated to show current hardware.
Order placed. Will update after I’m able to try it out.
03-02-2019, 04:54 AM
