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.2GT3 vs .2GT3RS

 
Old 02-23-2018, 03:23 PM
  #16  
GrantG
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Originally Posted by Serge944 View Post
People usually say GT3 and RS arent very different before they actually own an RS.

All those incremental changes do change the character of the car. The sharper suspension, the induction noise, the shorter final drive...



I think actually the non-RS has the slightly shorter final drive, once you take into account the tire sizes (unless they've lowered it more from the .1RS).

Biggest difference will be the twice-as-stiff suspension spring rates.
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Old 02-23-2018, 03:51 PM
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I've owned both .1 gt3 and .1 rs The biggest difference is body stiffness and aero. Drove them back on back on track rs body feels more rigid because it's wider. Other difference is turn in. Gt3 unders.
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:02 AM
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Biggest difference is stick vs PDK only. Other differences exist but compared to the transmission choice vs none they are small. Aesthetics take your choice.
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:13 AM
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If you already have the .1 RS (already have the CF hood, magnesium top and light weight lithium battery) and add CF sway bars and links, Bilstein shocks with specs like .2 RS or stiffer, stiffer springs, set the wing attack angle for better downforce and add the 911R underbody aero, headers (+38HP at wheel, +26 TQ and -30lbs), shod the wheels in new cup2's you have a car faster than the .2RS anywhere, even on the Nurburing. Add a roll cage and some lizard green vinyl on whatever paint you already have on the car and put some stripes on. The whole mod should cost about $14000-$15000 and not more than $16000. This car would be even more track ready than it already is! Plus you don't have to sell the .1 RS to get the .2 RS. Whatever money is saved (about $20,000) considering a .2RS that I specced with WP had an MSRP of $236,920, can be used to pay the sales tax and part of the downpayment on a .2 MT GT3. Now you have a great daily driver and a great track car and get to keep both.
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:36 AM
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^^ good points. but no warranty anymore
but if you even save 20k - there can happen something. once.
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:25 AM
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Default Good point about warranty

Originally Posted by jo_ker View Post
^^ good points. but no warranty anymore
but if you even save 20k - there can happen something. once.
I imagine leaving the headers out would keep the warranty intact. That would still leave the car with stickier tires, increased downforce and stiffer springs and swayers. Probably reduce expenditure by $6000 to $7000 for the headers etc. The car would still look Lizard green with the vinyl, LOL!
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Superman32
I've owned both .1 gt3 and .1 rs The biggest difference is body stiffness and aero. Drove them back on back on track rs body feels more rigid because it's wider. Other difference is turn in. Gt3 unders.
^^^^^
When you drive the RS at the track, you realize how fantastic that front end is, that and maybe the induction noise are the main differences to a GT3
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:55 AM
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Well - Tomorrow 45 degrees and Sunny and 55 and 57 on Mon/Tues. Rain all last week has washed all the salt away. So while you all debate this I plan on enjoying my .2 the next few days before the Winter may have a relapse shortly. . Just trying to get out of Atlanta this AM
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Old 02-24-2018, 12:48 PM
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20mm wider tires on each corner.
4cm more rubber per axle.

,5 inch wider rims.

makes on each car a feelable difference.
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Old 02-24-2018, 01:16 PM
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Both cars are great. If you want a manual then the choice is simple. If not, then it simply is a personal choice. I've grown to appreciate the GT3 styling more than the RS. It has more of a classic Porsche silhouette to me. I love the RS performance and wide tires though. Price wise if I were to spend 225k on an automatic/dual clutch car, I would probably rather have a used 2015 Ferrari 458 with nice wheels/MPSC2's and keep my 991.2 GT3 manual. That way I would get two different experiences. The upgrade from a GT3 to an RS is not that big of an experience difference to me.
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Old 02-24-2018, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by GrantG View Post
I think actually the non-RS has the slightly shorter final drive, once you take into account the tire sizes (unless they've lowered it more from the .1RS).

Biggest difference will be the twice-as-stiff suspension spring rates.
You got me there.

Looks like the effective final drive is the same: (tire diameter/final drive). 27.2/3.97 = 28.7/4.19

Until you put the winter set on

Transmission gear ratios identical for GT3 and RS (.1).
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