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Any aesthetic car care DIY requests?

 
Old 07-21-2018, 10:10 PM
  #61  
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Jean-Claude,

What about removing adhesive from tape / stickers etc. from the interior glass?

I had my car prepped with no detailing (I peeled the wraps off myself with the help of my 6 year-old sidekick and just had the dealer rinse with plain water and air dry). Should I simply use Invisible Glass, Sticky Stuff Remover, IPA, or something else?

Second question: I'm getting PPF next week. I've always applied coatings after PPF, but any issues with applying a coating first and then re-applying afterwards to the PPF? I think I remember Larry Kosilla doing this once in one of his videos...

Thanks in advance!

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Old 07-22-2018, 09:41 AM
  #62  
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Any advice for adding wax to a wax detailed car. My car was detailed and waxed 2m ago and I wash once a week (pressure wash, PH neutral snow foam, then two bucket and towel dry) the wax on the car is Swissvax Crystal Rock and I want to top up the wax and keep it in good order, not prepared to pay £1k for a tub of wax though !!

I am told a good caruaba wax will work fine, the question is what to do in prep before topping up the wax expensive Swissvax, straight on after wash and dry or better to cleanse (EG HD cleanse from Zymol) before waxing ?

Assume my tub of Zymol Carbon wax will be fine ?
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Old 07-22-2018, 01:57 PM
  #63  
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Another question !

Whats the best cleaner and technique for cleaning yellow seat belts ?
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Old 07-22-2018, 04:41 PM
  #64  
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Carnuba wax has become obsolete compared to a sealant. Try Menzerna sealant.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:01 PM
  #65  
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what product to use on black rubbery/plasticy bits that are so prevalent on Volvos?

the black bits that fade to gray
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:17 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by pissedpuppy
what product to use on black rubbery/plasticy bits that are so prevalent on Volvos?

the black bits that fade to gray
https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exter...ay-3-pack.html
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:31 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 80p View Post
Can you make suggestions on keeping interior vinyl not-shiny?
Sure, check post #52.

Originally Posted by TuonoR View Post
Curious how you tackle lighter colored seatbelts (and door straps). Yellow belts look great at delivery but pick up alot of finger oils and grime with use.

Thanks for creating this thread!
Because of the liability associated intrinsically associated with seat belts, I am sorry to say I can't offer formal advice. I have my own methods but there are caveats I discuss with clients.

I am sorry but the nature of this world limits me commenting on your question.

Originally Posted by IrishAndy View Post

Jean-Claude,

What about removing adhesive from tape / stickers etc. from the interior glass?

I had my car prepped with no detailing (I peeled the wraps off myself with the help of my 6 year-old sidekick and just had the dealer rinse with plain water and air dry). Should I simply use Invisible Glass, Sticky Stuff Remover, IPA, or something else?

Second question: I'm getting PPF next week. I've always applied coatings after PPF, but any issues with applying a coating first and then re-applying afterwards to the PPF? I think I remember Larry Kosilla doing this once in one of his videos...

Thanks in advance!
Use 3M specialty adhesive remover with plastic razor blades and do not allow it to touch interior surfaces at all.
3M Specialty Adhesive Remover

In general, do not apply a coating before PPF.

You are very welcome.

Originally Posted by Carrera2RS View Post
Any advice for adding wax to a wax detailed car. My car was detailed and waxed 2m ago and I wash once a week (pressure wash, PH neutral snow foam, then two bucket and towel dry) the wax on the car is Swissvax Crystal Rock and I want to top up the wax and keep it in good order, not prepared to pay £1k for a tub of wax though !!

I am told a good caruaba wax will work fine, the question is what to do in prep before topping up the wax expensive Swissvax, straight on after wash and dry or better to cleanse (EG HD cleanse from Zymol) before waxing ?

Assume my tub of Zymol Carbon wax will be fine ?
You can apply whatever wax you wish to onto your Crystal Rock. Crystal Rock is my favorite wax and the one that goes on client's cars when they are looking for a traditional last step protection. But sealants are not to be applied over waxes. You can apply a sealant first and then a wax though.

Maybe you can ask for advice that is more in touch with your personal nuances from the professional you used to have the CR applied?

Originally Posted by Carrera2RS View Post
Another question !

Whats the best cleaner and technique for cleaning yellow seat belts ?
Check my comment above in the same post. I am sorry I can't offer more.

Originally Posted by 0to60 View Post
Carnuba wax has become obsolete compared to a sealant. Try Menzerna sealant.
Menzerna Powerlock is my sealant of choice. For a sealant, it is excellent. But sealants are antiquated when compared with a properly applied coating all the same. But it's definitely one of those things where it's not a one-size-fits-all. Everyone has their thing they are into for their pride and joy.


Originally Posted by pissedpuppy View Post
what product to use on black rubbery/plasticy bits that are so prevalent on Volvos?

the black bits that fade to gray
Modesta EPC is the best when it comes to unpainted exterior plastic surfaces. Locate an installer here: http://www.modesta.co/installers.html
For DIY products, just condition with your favorite plastic conditioner.
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Old 10-06-2018, 06:42 PM
  #68  
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I found some time to make myself available.
Anyone need any assistance?
TTT
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Old 10-06-2018, 06:58 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Detailed Designs View Post
I found some time to make myself available.
Anyone need any assistance?
TTT
I sent an email a few weeks ago regarding PEC delivery and getting work done, but I didn't get any response. Are you taking additional work?
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Old 10-06-2018, 07:14 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by horns View Post
I sent an email a few weeks ago regarding PEC delivery and getting work done, but I didn't get any response. Are you taking additional work?
I apologize for not returning your message. Likely, I made a mental bookmark to return your message and then ended up having my attention consumed by some project we are working our way through.

We are busy but I am scheduling projects out and being selective on which new clients we accept. Please...I hope no one reads that as me being pretentious or pompous. It's just that we are very low volume and the demand is far outweighing the supply so something has to give and it's that 1) existing clients are #1 to me and I will not put off loyal clients' projects who have supported us from before we got here (wherever that is...) to chase new streams of revenue and 2) new clients/projects must have a measure of flexibility to work with my vision for how work is done. But I definitely do try to give anyone leaving me a message/email at least the courtesy of a returned call/email to explain our situation. It appears I failed you on that horns. I am terribly sorry. Please accept my apology.

If I've not ruined my opportunity to potentially care for you and your car, please feel free to shoot me an email and I will get back with you asap. ---> [email protected]
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Old 10-07-2018, 12:17 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Detailed Designs View Post
I apologize for not returning your message. Likely, I made a mental bookmark to return your message and then ended up having my attention consumed by some project we are working our way through.

We are busy but I am scheduling projects out and being selective on which new clients we accept. Please...I hope no one reads that as me being pretentious or pompous. It's just that we are very low volume and the demand is far outweighing the supply so something has to give and it's that 1) existing clients are #1 to me and I will not put off loyal clients' projects who have supported us from before we got here (wherever that is...) to chase new streams of revenue and 2) new clients/projects must have a measure of flexibility to work with my vision for how work is done. But I definitely do try to give anyone leaving me a message/email at least the courtesy of a returned call/email to explain our situation. It appears I failed you on that horns. I am terribly sorry. Please accept my apology.

If I've not ruined my opportunity to potentially care for you and your car, please feel free to shoot me an email and I will get back with you asap. ---> [email protected]
No hurt feelings here. I can appreciate your situation. I'll send an email. Thanks
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:21 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by horns View Post
No hurt feelings here. I can appreciate your situation. I'll send an email. Thanks
Responded.

Happy to make myself available to answer any other questions folks may have.
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Old 10-31-2018, 01:49 AM
  #73  
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Many thanks to JC and others who have posted here. Absolutely great information for me here, and I've corrected many of the things I was doing wrong. I purchased a new 2015 911 a few years back, and got about 6000 miles on it. I've washed it when I've been back in the US, maybe 6-7 times, and dealer has washed it twice. (yeah, that won't happen again). Since educating myself here and elsewhere, I have noticed what may be some swirl marks and slight scratches, that I would previously missed. Couple of questions.....is color correction the only alternative for swirl marks, or if they are slight, is there another, possibly less aggressive, approach? Once that is remedied, I'm thinking that PPF for the susceptible front components......bumper, headlights, fenders, hood, mirrors...and a good ceramic coating would provide a adequate level of protection for my needs. Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
Since I won't have the time to do this work until spring, would there be any issues to applying a coat of paint sealant to provide some level of protection until I can get the work done?
Again, many thanks for the great info.
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Old 10-31-2018, 01:58 AM
  #74  
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So I have a tiny air pocket in my Xpel. Any way to fix it without redoing the entire hood? Pictured here at bottom left side of crest next to black stripe. It's tiny and would hate to be wasteful for an otherwise perfectly fine hood. Installer offered to replace.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:18 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Madisongy View Post
Many thanks to JC and others who have posted here. Absolutely great information for me here, and I've corrected many of the things I was doing wrong. I purchased a new 2015 911 a few years back, and got about 6000 miles on it. I've washed it when I've been back in the US, maybe 6-7 times, and dealer has washed it twice. (yeah, that won't happen again). Since educating myself here and elsewhere, I have noticed what may be some swirl marks and slight scratches, that I would previously missed. Couple of questions.....is color correction the only alternative for swirl marks, or if they are slight, is there another, possibly less aggressive, approach? Once that is remedied, I'm thinking that PPF for the susceptible front components......bumper, headlights, fenders, hood, mirrors...and a good ceramic coating would provide a adequate level of protection for my needs. Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
Since I won't have the time to do this work until spring, would there be any issues to applying a coat of paint sealant to provide some level of protection until I can get the work done?
Again, many thanks for the great info.
Actually you have a number of options that range from topical/low-cost to intensive/costly. In either case, the longevity will be commensurate with the cost (as a general rule).

The least intrusive and most (immediately) cost effective thing is to apply a carnauba wax or synthetic polymer via a dual-action machine. Those products will artificially fill much of those microscopic voids/scratches that are causing the light refraction(what you see as "swirls").

Next up, you can have a glaze/all-in-one applied. It will work in the same way but tends to need more work-time and comes at a higher cost. Sometimes it may be necessary to apply a wax/sealant over a glaze. The All-In-One will have a wax/sealant built in. This is not advised to be done if you anticipate ever having proper paint correction or a coating applied. It will increase the labor and cost to have those services include complete removal of the glaze/AIO.

Now you're pretty much at paint correction. You get what you pay for and there are infinite ways for someone to convince someone they're getting "paint correction" but are actually getting a glaze/AIO/filler-work. When done right, it will look better and when cared for properly(not necessarily as a garage queen), the aesthetics will last significantly longer as well.

Hope this helps shed some light on the topic for you. If you'd like a referral, I have a few people I'd trust in Florida. Just ask.

Originally Posted by bluehorseshoe View Post
So I have a tiny air pocket in my Xpel. Any way to fix it without redoing the entire hood? Pictured here at bottom left side of crest next to black stripe. It's tiny and would hate to be wasteful for an otherwise perfectly fine hood. Installer offered to replace.
It's hard to say from the image. I suggest you reach out to the installer and ask for their feedback. I could spend 2 hours typing out the nuances for bubbles in PPF and it still wouldn't help unless I had far more information....and even then, you still need that feedback from your installer. Sorry I can't help more.
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