0to60

Properly prep car then wrap entire car with Xpel ultimate. Use two bucket wash method and be done with it.

Detailed Designs

There's nothing intrinsically wrong with using a pressure washer for a car wash. Using it in the same way as you would on concrete would cause damage though. The rule of thumb is to hold it no closer to paint than you would to your hand. But everyone should use what they feel comfortable with. There's more than one way to do things.

For window cleaning try a few of these microfiber towels for the heavier cleaning and one of these towels for a final refinement if you have fine smudging.
For use on paint that is in great condition, try these microfiber towels. These will be great for use on interior dash screens and cluster covers.
For use on paint that is in less than ideal condition, these microfiber towels will offer a nice measure of pile without being overly costly considering the condition of the paint. These would also work for interior vinyl and leather surfaces.

As with all microfiber towels, be sure to wash them before use. Wash on low-heat or no-heat, use a free and clear detergent and air tumble in your dryer. If you've used softener in your washing machines, you may want to hand wash your towels or they will become hydrophobic(will not absorb water). Softener practically destroys MF towels.

Enjoy.

NVRANUF

Definitely following up on your tips and suggestions!
Thank you!

96Tiger

Jimmy-D

What about a quick spray detailer you can recommend if say a bird baptizes your car and you have a small area to clean up. Also - I have seen people, after rinsing the car shampoo off their car applying a quick spray detailer on the wet car before drying??

Detailed Designs

My pleasure.

Every single factory PPF I have ever seen on a car is terrible. They all yellow and they all have ugly texture. They're all non-topcoated urethane films. Place any clear plastic out in the weather and under the sun and they'll all discolor unless treated in some way.

Really though, they're wear and tear items. They should last a lifetime no more than brake pads last a lifetime. Everyone should anticipate replacing them every 5 years.

Hope this helps.

Detailed Designs

Sonax Brilliant Shine

Some folks use quick detailer as a drying aid.

gago1101

What do you think about car washing intervals. I always thought that longer intervals will be better for paint as there is less rubbing, etc. Is there a downside in leaving dirt on the car? I don't mean dirt after track days, just the regular cr$p.
thanks in advance!

PS: I like my cars dirty, as it reminds me that I use them as intended. Plus, a dirty GT silver GT3 will pass for any regular 911 when grocery shopping. But if it's bad for the paint, I am ready to change habits.

Detailed Designs

There is no absolute answer. In general, a maintenance wash every 2 weeks is seen as good practice. But exposure is the biggest factor. While we can see dirt on a car and dirt by itself doesn't hurt anything, it can start to bond. Once bonding starts, it will accelerate at the rate in which is builds up. Then your washes are more intensive and there's a higher risk for driving dirt into and across your paint.

The wildcard is chemical exposure though. You can see dirt but you can't see what chemicals the paint's been exposed to. And everything that can leak from a transfer truck, engine, car, etc. can find its way off the road and onto the body. This is another reason regular maintenance washes are a good idea. It simply covers some bases one can't otherwise account for.

You are right in that washing too much can also be bad. Once one understands good car care, good judgement based upon knowledge should be their guide.

Dr. Ferdinand

JC - in a different thread a user was asking for some advice how to deal with discoloration on his centerlocks as a result of 'hard water'. Here is the link, figured you may have some insight to add:

https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...oloration.html

Detailed Designs

Answered and TTT for any other inquiries.

FourT6and2

You touched upon Alcantara. But what about the black leather seats and dash/doors in the GT3? Don't really need "cleaning" per se, but more along the lines of how to keep them conditioned properly when new. I'd like to avoid creams if possible. Is there a simple way to keep the leather from fading and cracking or turning shiny? And many products out there have bad reviews on black leather because they either make the leather glossy or leave a milky film behind.

Also RE: rinse-less wash. To my extreme disappointment, I discovered the shop whom I paid a lot of money to PPF and paint correct my car is not allowed (due to local laws) to use water to wash their customers' cars. How crazy is that? A detailer/PPF shop can't actually wash cars. So I paid a lot of money for paint correction and the shop uses ONR rinseless wash. I gotta wonder how good of a job was actually done before the PPF went on...

neurotic

I used AmmoNYC leather cleaner and conditioner. Works very well.
Recently switched to Adam's leather cleaning and conditioner products. It is good.....but I prefer Ammo. Might switch back.

I feel Ammo did a better job in the sense the leather feels and looks cleaner than Adam's.

Detailed Designs

Leather Master Soft Cleaner (link provided) is great for use on Porsche's urethane treated leathers. When it comes to conditioning, use Leather Master Vital. Dry wipe with a quality MF towel after it sits for a while. It will condition and not leave a surface greasy unless you wildly over do it on the applications and exhibit gross negligence in an application.

I am not a fan of prepping cars with ONR due to the polymers found therein. Folks use it over coated surfaces and believe they have a strong chemical membrane still because of the water behavior when in reality they're just adding a hydrophobic layer of polymers which the water is responding to. It has a generation, by and large, of coating installers and private owners with the wool pulled over their eyes. There's a place for ONR but I am not really feeling prepping a car for paint correction or coatings being it. But if that's all someone has....I dunno...it's perceivable that someone is going through the steps to remove any fillers left over by ONR with another decontamination phase.

With all of that said, it doesn't mean you didn't get exactly what you paid for unless you were specifically told they were not going to use it. Are you happy with how it looks and performs?

FourT6and2

Thanks!

It all looks good, but I'm no expert. I didn't know they do rinse-less until someone let it slip after I picked the car up and paid. Seems like the town they're in requires all sorts of permits and extra equipment to collect the waste water, which the shop doesn't have. If I did it again, I'd have delivered the car to you in Atlanta on its way to California.