786

nicely done man, need more pics.

Mvez

OK, here is summary of the completed package, hitting the big items that matter. I'll install the BBS wheels with some pics this week, but the alignment is in also. -3.3 front, 0 toe, 9.3 caster. -2.8 rear, .17 deg toe per side.

Ohlins TTX - they are utterly amazing. How the ride can be so controlled, firm, but also not harsh is crazy. It rides virtually no different than stock. The only difference I can feel are the monoball top mounts, and that's a good thing. Track impressions soon, but if they perform this well on the street, they will be equally amazing on track, given their rates are very track focused. Ohlins are 571/1142, compared to 571/913 for the new .2RS. Can reach adjusters on all 4 corners without removing wheels, which is a big bonus.

PASM delete kit - works seamless, no dash lights, no issues. Integrates the suspension seamlessly. Can be used with any aftermarket suspension kit. Super easy install.

Tarett Race Camber plate - Perfect. It allows up to -3.5 deg up front, without any shims, and caster is about 9.3. You can add caster simply by using shims, and not fully decking the camber plate inboard. No caster pucks or arms needed. Better inner strut clearance, and maintain suspension geometry. No downsides. Plus, alignments are faster and easier this way. Makes adjustable solid caster pucks a thing of the past.....

TPC side muffler delete - fantastic. ZERO drone, lets all the factory software and throttle mapping remain as is. You can still hear the valves open as stock. The sound is perfect. Just loud enough to now enjoy it all at RPM, especially in sport mode. Quiet mode is still quiet enough. Flexible upper pipe is a must IMO. I don't like the solid Fabspeed design, there is a reason the OEM setup has a flexible upper section. It's not cheap, but works as advertised, so I'm happy.

GMG LMS rollbar/ Schroth 4pt - looks like factory clubsport package and only weighs 41lbs, which offsets the side muffler delete almost identically. However, it moves the weight inside the rear axle, so handling is still improved. Belts fit perfect, no other mods needed, and feel great. No lap belt in the way is great, with virtually all the same safety. Win-win.

HEAT'N'COOL

I have a few questions about the Tarett Racing Camber Plate. I have purchased this as I want the ability for more adjustment up front for Camber. My only hesitation is the fact that when they are fitted, as you see in your picture, it seems like the bolts are way too short. I have heard reports of them failing from Jamie@Dundon Motorsports. have you heard the same thing at all? Because of this I am hesitant to put them on the car. Thoughts?

Domkouki

Thanks for the updates. I love that you have captured all the important elements to "dial in" the car yet still has the ride quality of a street car. any photos of the 265/325 fitment ?

Mvez

We probably have about 10 local GT4's all running these, I'm not sure what length studs are used, but never have had any issue to my knowledge. However, this pic is taken with the initial setup of the shorter studs, and I had Ira send me a set of 30mm studs. I questioned the same thing, and he said that their recent run of these seemed to have used 25mm studs instead of 30mm. It is easy to swap them out. These plates are rebuildable, bearings, studs, etc. Even with these shorter studs, there is plenty of thread engagement, so I wouldn't call it "way too short" but it is just under the locking thread. We've paint marked it and will watch them, and I'll just install the longer studs the next time I need to get in there, or if we see any movement.

As far as "failure", I would have Dundon clarify what failed. All monoball/bearings will develop play over time, but I've never heard of studs on any tarett strut mounts failing. I've had a pair on my 987 for 4 years that have been thoroughly abused, and no issues either, and it's not just because the studs are long enough to engage the locking threads on the nuts.

stout

In the 997.1 days, I was all for anything other than PASM. Today, I am wary of anything but PASM. So, bit props to you for taking new dampers on, but your early feedback (paraphrased: it's amazing that a setup with springs this stiff can ride this nice) suggests someone who knows what's up is involved. O

Cool to see an owner of one of these cars already optimizing it for track use here in the states.

HEAT'N'COOL

Thanks for the response. I will ask Jamie what he was talking about for clarification, from my understanding he was talking about the lack of thread from the studs through the bolt failing. There are several cars in our area running them as well and heavens heard that yet. Congrats on the build! car looks amazing with great parts.

80s

I finally got a quote for the TTX, called öhlins in sweden, man those are 8100Euro. Puh, are they really worth it?? On track they just must be like a totally different experience??

Mvez

Thanks. I think Bilstein and Ohlins have it figured out. Proof positive since the .2RS is coming with similar spring rates and setup. I think both will accomplish the same thing. Bilstein, because it uses a higher gas pressure charge can prob get away with slightly less spring rate than TTX. Different philosophies at work between Ohlins and Bilstein, but both have their merits. The low shaft speed control and firm feel that the Bilstein clubsports give the chassis is amazing. The Ohlins with lower gas pressure should be better on the high speed shaft side of things, but honestly, when I ride in my M3 and GT3, both feel amazing on the street, and I already know how good the clubsports are on the track. I honestly decided to try the TTX because Bilstein had the clubsports back-ordered until probably May, and another seemingly trivial reason, is you can adjust the rear Ohlins without climbing to the inside rear shock towers, which is not easy when you have a rollbar installed. The TTX allow adjustment from outside the car by simply reaching up under the rear bumper, with wheels still on.

Either, IMO, will be a legitimate upgrade to the stock PASM for those who don't mind turning a few ***** from time to time. And if you are a 6MT guy like I am, but want an "RS" type of suspension, this is honestly the best option for you.

While upgrading springs on the stock shocks is a legitmate upgrade, at these types of spring rates, ~double the stock ones, I feel like you are compromising the damper at that point, and they aren't really valved for something that high, and you'll still get that jarring "crashing" spring sensation.

I already spoke to him. It had nothing to do with stud length, that problem was because some clown way overtorqued the nuts and stripped the studs. Porsche's locking nuts are already VERY aggressive and they rape threads as it is, over-torque them and it's not going to be pretty. That has nothing to do with stud length or any sort of failure associated with it. Nothing wrong with these plates, even with the shorter length studs. Mine are fine, and I'm not bothering to change them until I need to pull them out for something else, or if I see any movement, which I don't foresee.

Maxi_z

Really nice build

Good to see that someone is trying aggressive spec camber on the 991 gt3 it s very near what manthey racing did on my gt3 and it made a really god change.

I understand that the camber on the 991 gt3 behaves in a strange way as at first I also had the feel that the car was almost better with standard geometry than when I went to medium camber about -2.4 and -2.0... but when I went around -3.2 and -2.7 then the car was faster on track and still useable on the street
so probably you get a difference and an advantage on track compared to the standard geometry wich works well only if you go really agressive and drive aggressively on a tighter and curvy track.

Are your wheels 19"?

I would like to see them fitted

I also tried many different suspensions but on different cars (proflex, intrax, penske, nitron, ohlins road and track, bilstein, sachs) but my gt3 is fitted with oem suspension as I find it s really well tuned and would not want to spend money on some suspension only to find out they arent how I like etc.

I had that feeling with some intrax on a scuderia they felt really really nice quality but were valved way too soft for my liking.

On a mini jcw I fitted the ohlins road and track and I fell that in that application the fvd system would make it more bouncy on a bumpy road as if after a bump the rebound was letting the car come back up too fast (as probably intended to keep the wheel in contact) but at least on the mini that have got such short travel it didn t work well as soon as you were using it in agressive mode but I don t know about other cars.

I would be curious to see how those ohlins go on the gt3 and also how they would compare with the KW clubsport made for manthey racing did you also consider those?

More picture please

TrackDays247.com

If you need track Day stuff: Give me a shout for Pagid, PFC or GiroDisc, glad to help, ton of experience

Mvez

Weather should be decent tomorrow, so will get some pics with the 19's mounted up.

JRitt@essex

Thanks for the support on the Essex/AP Racing discs, and I'm looking forward to seeing some fresh pics!

jcastle

MVEZ,

Any updates after getting the car out on track? How does your club sport .1GT3 compare your prior cayman and GT3RS track cars?

Raucky