Enclosed trailer, how do you strap down your GT3
12-12-2017, 08:25 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
What kind of trailer, open/enclosed, aluminum/steel, how long? Reason I ask is because of the weight of the trailer. If all aluminum I see guys pulling them with 1/2 ton trucks. If you're going with a decent size(24' or up) steel enclosed I would get a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton single rear wheel truck to use, gas or diesel is just preference, they both will pull just fine but the diesel will pull better.
-cheers
12-12-2017, 09:31 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
12-12-2017, 09:33 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
I just had my rennline tow hooks installed on my GT3.2. I’ll take some pics and post shortly. He did mention that there were limited options but found a good one. I don’t want to use tire wraps as they are real pain compared to a simple hook and wrachet strap.
12-12-2017, 09:39 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Also as mentioned a diesel would be best given the torque and fuel efficiency. I’ve actually moved from a Sierra to a ML350 Bluetech (tows 7k) with a 20 ft enclosed aluminum. My wife hated the pickup so I had to bend somewhere...hey I got my GT3.2 can’t complain too much.
12-12-2017, 10:26 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Also as mentioned a diesel would be best given the torque and fuel efficiency. I’ve actually moved from a Sierra to a ML350 Bluetech (tows 7k) with a 20 ft enclosed aluminum. My wife hated the pickup so I had to bend somewhere...hey I got my GT3.2 can’t complain too much.
thanks
12-12-2017, 11:38 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
No issue with sagging. I just had a tekonsha prodigy trailer brake installed and a sway bar. The sway bar is needed given it’s a smaller vehicle. Just have a good trailer shop install everything and they will make sure the correct hitch level is used. The ML Bluetech only has 240hp but it the 455 of torque that matters for towing.
A pickup is likely a better tow vehicle buy I needed something for the other 300+ days of the year and would fit in my home and work garage.
A pickup is likely a better tow vehicle buy I needed something for the other 300+ days of the year and would fit in my home and work garage.
12-13-2017, 08:33 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
No issue with sagging. I just had a tekonsha prodigy trailer brake installed and a sway bar. The sway bar is needed given it’s a smaller vehicle. Just have a good trailer shop install everything and they will make sure the correct hitch level is used. The ML Bluetech only has 240hp but it the 455 of torque that matters for towing.
A pickup is likely a better tow vehicle buy I needed something for the other 300+ days of the year and would fit in my home and work garage.
A pickup is likely a better tow vehicle buy I needed something for the other 300+ days of the year and would fit in my home and work garage.
12-14-2017, 03:58 AM
#24
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12-14-2017, 07:29 AM
#25
Buy a truck, Not to create an argument, but controlling the trailer is more important than total towing ability. Too many people buy low gross vehicle weight cars to tow large trailers, they do it, but when sh@t hits the fan, the trailer overpowers the tow vehicle. I use to tow 25k miles a year in the past. All 24 plus feet trailers (enclosed) and have had many close calls (not caused by me). If it were not for the large, stable tow vehicle, I would have not been able to control the trailer. You can get a solid 1/2 ton f150 ecoboost that will pull just about anything, but ounce you get into 24 and up in length, you will benefit in getting a 3/4 ton with the ability to manage the weight.
12-18-2017, 01:21 PM
#26
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Just want to say thanks again to Mr. Turtles for rushing me the pictures on Saturday. Totally saved my day!
I am just going to repost some of those pictures in case someone else might find them helpful.
I am just going to repost some of those pictures in case someone else might find them helpful.
12-18-2017, 02:42 PM
#28
The only problem with using those hooks is that you are compressing the suspension when you tie it down, that's not a good practice since the car will be bouncing around continuously and the straps will be tightening and loosening the whole time. Wheel/ tire areas are a better solution since it is the most ridged mounting/strapping point.
Also as DOUGR 743 mentioned, anything will pull these cars and trailers but stopping and controlling the load under a panic situation or high winds is what people overlook, little tow vehicles will get sketchy real fast and the outcome will be bad. IMO, hauling cars on/in a trailer with a SUV or a 1/2 ton truck is not a safe practice, like I said, they all will tow it but panic scenarios along the trip is when you will realize that your tow rig is too small for the application. And for all, don't be that guy going down the road with the truck sagging so bad that its almost on the bumper, you're just asking for DOT to stop you. Also, check your tow rigs GCWR, that is the max combined weight rating of the truck and trailer together(GVWR tow rig + the GVWR of trailer=, not the actual weight of both), this is what the DOT looks at and if you are over, your trailer will be left on the spot with the car inside along with some hefty fines. If you are over on your GCWR and in an accident and there is a fatality, you will be responsible, if it was your fault or not. Trailering now a days is nothing like it was 10 years ago, DOT is cracking down in every state and the fines and liability are hefty. My advice, get a more than adequate tow rig than you actually need, it's better to have too much than too little in these circumstances, especially with the way the law is today.
Also as DOUGR 743 mentioned, anything will pull these cars and trailers but stopping and controlling the load under a panic situation or high winds is what people overlook, little tow vehicles will get sketchy real fast and the outcome will be bad. IMO, hauling cars on/in a trailer with a SUV or a 1/2 ton truck is not a safe practice, like I said, they all will tow it but panic scenarios along the trip is when you will realize that your tow rig is too small for the application. And for all, don't be that guy going down the road with the truck sagging so bad that its almost on the bumper, you're just asking for DOT to stop you. Also, check your tow rigs GCWR, that is the max combined weight rating of the truck and trailer together(GVWR tow rig + the GVWR of trailer=, not the actual weight of both), this is what the DOT looks at and if you are over, your trailer will be left on the spot with the car inside along with some hefty fines. If you are over on your GCWR and in an accident and there is a fatality, you will be responsible, if it was your fault or not. Trailering now a days is nothing like it was 10 years ago, DOT is cracking down in every state and the fines and liability are hefty. My advice, get a more than adequate tow rig than you actually need, it's better to have too much than too little in these circumstances, especially with the way the law is today.
12-18-2017, 02:50 PM
#30
I see you like the Ram trucks, that is what I have. For some real good info on towing and on the Ram trucks, check out the CUMMINSFORUM.COM, great info on towing, weights, and proper tie down applications. There are posts about gas vehicles also, not just Cummins diesels.