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991.2 GT3 Break-In Procedure

 
Old 09-01-2017, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Engeljizzle View Post
Another item - What do you guys think of changing the oil before tracking it for the first time?Lets say at 1400km.
I would do it.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Engeljizzle View Post
Another item - What do you guys think of changing the oil before tracking it for the first time?Lets say at 1400km.
I've always changed out the oil in new cars early.. @ 200km
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
Have you seen them on the engine dyno? They are run at 8XXX Rpm for like 10 minutes straight. Every single drive thereafter will be easier than the engine dyno.

As an engine builder, I can tell you that besides seating rings (which happens in the first minute or less), there is nothing special that needs to happen in the beginning of a motor's life. If there is a requirement at all, it's only that you use common sense and not push a cold car.

This will probably evoke a religious response from the break in zealots, followed by a companion thread by the break in oil jihadists.

Lastly, it's laughable that the GT3 crowd cares about break ins considering the vast majority of the used GT3 for sale are from people with a .2 allocation and which have well under 10K miles on the clock.
I could not agree more. I think people become to **** about break in. Using common sense is the key. Also, with the .1GT3 they had a light which went off the the engine was at the satisfactory temperature. I don't know if the .2 will have that but if so, just follow that light and your good to go.

FWIW, AP wants you to baby the car for good reason. The engine is warranted for four years and he doesn't want some idiot redlining in abusive ways.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:21 PM
  #19  
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"He then went on that this procedure was really important for the GT3 RS engines given their more "delicate" rings - and how important this break in really is for any of their engines"

I find this hard to believe. GT3 and RS pistons are made here in Irvine by CP Carillo. I have used dozens of sets, identical to the ones in the factory car. The ring seating happens in the first minute....you can see it happen actually by watching the exhaust. At first it's blue smoke, then all of a sudden - bang - it's no smoke. For maybe the next 20-30 miles you want to accelerate and decelerate, preferably on a grade, which helps push out and pull in the ring and mate it to its cylinder surface.

Because Porsche uses a dyno, ALL of this has occurred by the time you as the customer turn the key for the first time. Even if the car has 1KM on the odo, this has been done already because the motor is run independent of the chassis.

There are other reasons why you should follow his break in advice - trans, for one. But engine wise it's good to go.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
Have you seen them on the engine dyno? They are run at 8XXX Rpm for like 10 minutes straight. Every single drive thereafter will be easier than the engine dyno.

As an engine builder, I can tell you that besides seating rings (which happens in the first minute or less), there is nothing special that needs to happen in the beginning of a motor's life. If there is a requirement at all, it's only that you use common sense and not push a cold car.

This will probably evoke a religious response from the break in zealots, followed by a companion thread by the break in oil jihadists.

Lastly, it's laughable that the GT3 crowd cares about break ins considering the vast majority of the used GT3 for sale are from people with a .2 allocation and which have well under 10K miles on the clock.
Couldn't agree more. Take a note here that the US manual says something different than ROW. I believe it was written more by lawyers than engineers.
Warm it up, and you are good to go after 500km. This Is at least what most dealers would tell you here in EU.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:46 PM
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Isn't there a difference between engine dyno and engine under load when it comes to break-ins? hitting high RPMs on an engine dyno does not stress the engine as much compared to hitting the same RPMs when you have to propel 3000+ lbs.

Also, don't forget about bedding in the brakes. I've attached a bedding procedure posted earlier this year for reference...
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by WenigerAberBeser View Post
Isn't there a difference between engine dyno and engine under load when it comes to break-ins? hitting high RPMs on an engine dyno does not stress the engine as much compared to hitting the same RPMs when you have to propel 3000+ lbs.
I'm pretty sure that an engine dyno can provide a varying load to the engine to simulate actual driving (or even more extreme use)
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GrantG View Post
I'm pretty sure that an engine dyno can provide a varying load to the engine to simulate actual driving (or even more extreme use)
I'm sure they CAN, but do they? According to this Porsche engineer, they don't really... http://pcaucr.org/12409/

The engineer replied, “Herr Koop, you do not understand (that I already knew). When we do our engine test, the metals inside the engine never reach the temperatures they would when driven on the street since the test session is fairly short. In other words, the bearings, pistons and cylinders never get a chance to thermally expand to their maximum. Therefore, there is little wear on the moving components. But when you drive a car on the street, the engine parts expand considerably more because of the heat being generated from the engine running for an extended period of time. No matter how tight the tolerances are, there is always a slight amount of expansion in the material. The moving parts can wear quickly if exposed to excessive heat and not always in a uniform way. We also constantly vary the speed and allow the engine to run at both high and low RPM’s”.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:59 PM
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Of course there is a difference between an engine dyno and street driving. Porsche has both engine and chassis dynos that can simulate load, but as far as I know they only use the engine dynos. They mainly use the chassis dynos for durability testing.

The OP specifically asked about ENGINE break in. My point is the factory recommendations for break in encompass the WHOLE car, and there are lots of little things that legitimately need time to break in.

The engine isn't one of them, but the point is that if you follow the procedure, you are basically giving the motor an easier time that it needs. No harm really.
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Old 09-01-2017, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by WenigerAberBeser View Post
I'm sure they CAN, but do they?
I don't have any inside knowledge about this, but I don't know why Porsche would bother to test the motors on a dyno that would present a load far lower than real driving. I assume the point of the test is to glean information about how the motor will perform, once it is installed into the car.

But remember, I'm not the guy who suggested that all of the brake-in is complete once the dyno test is done

Good point, Catorce, about systems other than engine to break-in too...
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Old 09-01-2017, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
Have you seen them on the engine dyno? They are run at 8XXX Rpm for like 10 minutes straight. Every single drive thereafter will be easier than the engine dyno.
As an engine builder, I can tell you that besides seating rings (which happens in the first minute or less), there is nothing special that needs to happen in the beginning of a motor's life. If there is a requirement at all, it's only that you use common sense and not push a cold car.
This will probably evoke a religious response from the break in zealots, followed by a companion thread by the break in oil jihadists.
Lastly, it's laughable that the GT3 crowd cares about break ins considering the vast majority of the used GT3 for sale are from people with a .2 allocation and which have well under 10K miles on the clock.
YUP

Originally Posted by Engeljizzle View Post
Anyone know of the new break in steps yet? Max RPM for how many miles?
I'm doing an Oct 19th ED on my car and I plan on doing both Spa and the Ring. By the time I get to the ring, which will be my first stop, the car should have around 1400km. Safe to beat on it? I would even consider getting an oil change done while I'm there before tracking it. Are the break miles typically a "recommendation" or a "requirement"? I'm more worried about my warranty than anything.
"I just wanna go fast.."
Warm the car up normally. Go easy the first few 100 miles to ensure the tires are scrubbed in, brakes are fully bedded. Then, Drive it like you stole it.
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Old 09-17-2017, 10:06 PM
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Can anyone post the actual page from the owner's manual for a 991.2 GT3's break in procedure? No offence to anyone, but I'm going by the book on this one.
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Old 09-17-2017, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Surge74 View Post
Can anyone post the actual page from the owner's manual for a 991.2 GT3's break in procedure? No offence to anyone, but I'm going by the book on this one.
Are you serious? No one even has this car yet. When you get yours, you can flip open your crisp manual and obsess about how to do it "right".
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Old 09-17-2017, 10:19 PM
  #29  
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Deliveries have started - have seen videos of them in Europe, in owner's hands. I have spoken to a Vlogger who is there now...
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Old 09-17-2017, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Surge74 View Post
Deliveries have started - have seen videos of them in Europe, in owner's hands. I have spoken to a Vlogger who is there now...
Yup, quite a few Euros in fact.

And I think RL'er Chris3693 has also taken delivery.
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